Question about 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

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Why is the tms code is on when starting my 2008 sebring convertible?

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SOURCE: how do i change the digital clock on the 2008 sebring?

there should be a "H" and a "M" on the console with a small hole beside it,use a pen to push the recessed buttons

Posted on May 06, 2009


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Passenger window wont roll up.......fuse/relay is good....window motor is good..module is good.......tested and got a ul 1110 and ul 1120 codes ...what is this ? 2008 sebring convertible / chrysler


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Can the top of a 2008 sebring convertible be manually operated ?

No..... unless you unhook the motor an all its mechanisms, then you can do it manually..Gooduck

May 07, 2010 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

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Fault codes for sebring convertable

p168= The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts

p0442=Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak)

p0455=Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (large leak)

Dec 07, 2009 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

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What is the location of the battery in a 2008 sebring convertable?

Try looking under the front fender on the drivers side of the car that is where the battery for the 2004 Sebrings are. Hope this helps

Sep 24, 2009 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

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My 2008 chrysler sebring will start the engine but

shift lock switch. this switch is usually connected to a little box on the brake pedal. Look about half way up the pedal from the foot pad and make sure the wires are still intact.

Aug 13, 2009 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

1 Answer

How do i change the digital clock on the 2008 sebring?

there should be a "H" and a "M" on the console with a small hole beside it,use a pen to push the recessed buttons

May 06, 2009 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring

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I have a 2008 Chrysler Sebring soft top convertible that isn't working. All I get a Convertible Top Malfunction message and a tone whenever I press a button. Update: Here is what I did to get it to be safe to drive: Removed the trim around the front windshield on the passenger side to get access to the cable going up to the latching mechanism in the overhead of the windshield. Removed to cover from underneath the header. Removed the 8 10mm bolts and dropped the plate down to verify which two wires went to the latch motor. Put the plate back, leaving the bolts a little loose to let the plate align during the next steps. Disconnect the cable at the connector on the right side of the windshield. Have to pop the little cable tiedowns from the frame out of their holes with two flat blade screwdivers. Then I got a source of 12vdc. It can be the battery in the car. It just has to be able to deliver enough current to run the latch motor. At least 5 amps, I think. I tried the accessory plug in the console, but it has a circuit breaker and can't always run the motor. Self resets, but a pain to try to use. Then I ran a couple of wires to the cable post bolts under the hood. Be sure not to let the cables contact any metal frame or short themselves. --------------------- The two wires in the latch header cable plug are the heavier gauge wires, orange and brown I think, but be sure to determine whatever you have. Could be different from mine. Connect the power wires to these from the back of the connector. I used 16 gauge wires with the ends stripped. Worked fine for me. One way moves the latch close, switch them to move the latch open. I had the top in the fully closed position so all I had to do was latch it. Using the wires I was able to run the motor until it was latched. Safe to drive. Reconnected the connector, put the cable tiedowns back in the holes and tightened the header plate bolts just snug. Do not over tighten. Then put all the trim back in place. That was it till I get the controller and any sensors replaced. My controller was bad, and at least one hall effect sensor. Still haven't completed that but will update if I do. Hope this helps someone. Saved me a lot of hassle. ----------------------- Previous details before I got the top latched: ------------------------------------------- I have tested all of the micro switches and cylinder switches and they are good. The top had been going part of the way down, and back up. As I was trying to get it all the way up, the trunk stopped going back down. Again, all the switches tested good - continuity 0.1 to 0.2 ohms when clicked, OL when open. So, I was able to get the top to go all the way up, and latch. So I decided to open the relief valve on the pump and let the trunk go closed. Then, I closed the relief valve, pressed the top control switch in the up direction hoping to fully seat the trunk, and then all I get is the malfunction message. Now, the top isn't latched, and I can't move it in either direction, so it isn't safe to drive! The trunk can only be opened with the key. I have tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a while to reset codes, but nothing changes. I am stumped as what I can do. It is my wife's and she isn't ready to have it taken to a shop and spend an arm and a leg to get the top repaired. I at least would like to get the top to latch so it is okay to drive it. Would it be worth it to replace the PTCM around $300 as a POSSIBLE solution?

Jul 22, 2018 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

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