ECM DETERMINES by cylinder(s) and exhaust manifold temp sensors.
https://www.manualslib.com/download/1241779/Suzuki-Df150.html
OVERHEAT CAUTION
CONDITION 1 (Maximum temperature)
Immediate activation of system when:
• Cylinder temperature reaches 120 °C (248 °F)
• Exhaust manifold temperature reaches 114 °C (237.2 °F)
CONDITION 2 (Temp. rise vs Time)
Immediate activation of system when:
• The average temperature difference during three consecutive 10 second measurement periods of the cyl-
inder temperature sensor at engine speeds of 500 r/min or higher exceeds the limits as shown below.
• The average temperature difference during three consecutive 10 second measurement periods of the
exhaust manifold temperature sensor at engine speeds of 500 r/min or higher exceeds the limits as
shown below.
ACTION:
RESET:
Close throttle completely and then shift into neutral.
System reset will occur when cylinder temperature drops below the limits shown below. However, the sys-
tem may be activated again unless the cause for overheat (such as insufficient water) is removed.
Temperature range Temperature difference
Seem the temp light end is bad.
SOURCE: Cooling fan wont work
The water temp sensor is located near the thermostat housing. This sensor is what tells the ECM to turn the fan on/off. The water temp sending unit is located near the same area. You know you have the correct sensor is because the water temp sensor has a 2 prong plug. The water temp sending unit only has 1 prong.
SOURCE: 98 ford f-150 temp gauge and light problems
the intake air temperature sensor is located inside the air intake duct which is where the air filter is located pull the rubber tubing off the throttle body and look inside with a light and you will see it
SOURCE: 1990 honda accord temp gauge above hot limit.
Hi there,
Firstly - DO NOT run engine, when guage reads hot, as this will cause costly damage to head gasket & alloy engine head.
The fact that guage takes 1min to read HOT, would confirm the guage IS working properly.
So, other components which are likely to cause hot readings (in this order) are:
- lack of coolant (or leakage somewhere): is there sufficient green coolant at the correct level? Top up mixture to correct level. Repair any leaks.
- collapsed radiator hose: when engine is cold, start engine, then quickly watch both upper & lower radiator hoses to see if either begins to flex inwards (collapse). Replace if either hose is collapsed.
- bad/incorrect thermostat rating : when replacing thermostats, you must ensure it is of the SAME temp rating (they all differ).
- Incorrect Temp sensor rating: the ratings of this sensor must be within manufacturer's spec's.
- bad waterpump: the engine relies on the waterpump to distribute the coolant throughout the entire system. If waterpump is faulty, coolant will not flow quick enough, causing overheating.
If you still believe all of the above components are OK, then have your cooling system "pressure tested". This test should be done, before looking further at other electrical components.
Cheers,
"if this has helped you in any way, please rate this solution"
SOURCE: 2002 malibu runs hot.
Sounds like you have a faulty head gasket or maybe a cracked head.This can cause overheating and the check engine light to come on.The code for the o2 sensor is probably caused by coolant getting into the exhaust system and coating the sensor.The coolant fan may work but it cannot remove enough heat from the rad to make the engine cool off.Try some engine coolant stop leak to see if it will help.This maybe only a temperary fix.Let me know if you need more.MOE
SOURCE: fans not coming on overheating changed water pump,
FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE:
1996 CAMARO Z28 5.7L ENGINE TROUBLES
The symptoms continue in an intermittent fashion. Sometimes it was happy for months with only a nerve racking sputter or two while at idle or even cruising at 70 mph. Then suddenly it just stops running. Crank, crank, crank but, not a plug fired or was it that not an injector injected. In any case the thing lay dead for half an hour before it just came to life again. It was fine for weeks after that.
Overheats- Runs Rough- Runs Very Rough- Induction Backfires- Stalls Out-
Won't start- Check Engine Light Turns On-
Various Cylinder Misfires- Overheat Condition- Oxygen Sensor Failure (Totally legit but, not related to other issues.) and a few others I forgot about.
Overtime; I ended up replacing everything I thought could have been even remotely related to the problems, including the Engine Control Modual/computer. SOS!
Three things I came to notice about this whole miserable affair were:
OK... Cutting to the chase now--- The problem turned out to be a poor and erratic connection between the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (The one mounted in the front of the water pump...) and its connecter. A serious cleaning and "tightening" of the contacts inside that connecter was “The Fix!!!!”
Me Z' has been up & running like a bat outta' hell for over 3 years since I cleaned up and tightened those connector puppies... I mean it hasn't missed a single beat!
I think the poor and electrically chattering on and off of the connection was doing an input signaling number on the poor computer such that it didn't know how to respond. Under those conditions, whatever it did decide to do in response like, turn off the cooling fans, turn off fuel injection, go full rich injection, adjust ignition timing, were “Just Wrong!”
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it! I hope this helps you and some others who have been experiencing this sort of thing.
RAy
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