No engine given and wrong transmission all motors are 4.9/5.0/5.8 and they all use the E40D Whether 4wd or rwd and try to read the codes refer to reading obd code reading for process and after they ard read try disconnecting the battery cables to clear codes and see if they come back and if the problem persists was the fluid very dirty and are you sure you put it back together the right way and check the modulator vacuum line for breaks in it and possibly changing it out for a new one about $21.00 at local stores $8-$15+@rockauto +shipping
SOURCE: 1992 tracker automatic transmission shifting
I have the same problem also. Hope someone has the answer.
SOURCE: Problem with 95 ford f150 v6automatic transmission -hard shifting
A sticking 1/2 shift accumulator or broken spring in the 1/2 shift accumulator.
SOURCE: transmission wont shift
check the kickdown/throttle valve cable. It may be bound up and stuck in the maximum position giving you extremely late shifts.
There ISN"T any modulators or vac lines on any Chrysler automatics
SOURCE: 1992 700r4 transmission wont shift into
www.tvmadeez.com/tvinstadj.php
This is great info, need to pressure check trans to properly set up trans. for long life, check it out
Be cool
SOURCE: Hard shift from 1st to 2nd. Engine rpm goes to 3000.
the tranny is slipping ,,in other words its starting to go.
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Engine is 5.0 EFI RWD, trans IS an AOD. And truck has NO connector for code reader.
Yes it does it's obd1 Tom it's under the hood on the driver's side fender behind the air cleaner there's 2 one is triangular with 6 pins and is called the self test plug and the other is a single plug called the self test input go to Ford fuel injection .com or search Ford obd1 codes and procedure either one will show you the plugs and where to plug in a test light or you can use your check engine light flashes to count the codes or a multimeter or anything you have you can use a tail light bulb wired up to it your choice the sites above and also Ford fuel injection how to run a self test will show you how to do the whole thing just be patient and concentrate no distractions or you will miscount the flashes and get confused ok you can do this good luck Stephen
Figured out the OBD-1. Codes were 11, 13, 33. I pulled valve body from transmission and installed a B&M shift kit. Pulled all valves, one at a time and blew everything clean with compressed air. Some valves were stuck but all are smooth now. But, it still wont shift out of 1st. And it coasts when let off accelerator. Truck has 102,000 miles. There are no vacuum lines going to this trans. Only shift rod, kick down cable, and electric connector.
Ok tommy somethings either wrong or the shift solenoids are stuck , I am assuming that you checked the transmission door sticker code not just identifying the pan gasket are you the original owner of the truck then you would know if it's the original one, but if it is the original trans the shift and pressure solenoids are not working also there is a circuit board I believe and that could be cracked the connectors could be bad another problem to with ford's is the connector at the inlet bulkhead leak fluid into the plug shorting out the transmission the codes you pulled 11/pass -13/unable to control rpm during self test high rpm check -33/egr valve opening not detected so those don't affect the transmission except the 13 possibly but I feel that the solenoids are bad ok
Also understand that obviously I'm not there to check myself ,I also understand that you have the knowledge to work on vehicles but all the bases have to be covered do you have reverse and park and other gears if manually shifted / starting in second? Possible bad digital range selector / not seated properly or its faulty can you start the truck in reverse or drive 1 2 ? Just thinking
Well, this thing was shifting and driving fine except for shifting into 4th and it did that with a loud clunk. All I did was change fluid and filter. But, from what I read online this happens alot.
Tomorrow I am pulling the driveshaft and tailpiece to clean the governor. Then I will adjust TV cable. Also plan to unplug the electrical cable and clean the contacts. If it still doesnt work after all this I am yanking it out of the truck for a rebuild.
I just bought this truck 2 days ago. Paid $2,000 for it.
Or, I may put a C4 in it.
Ok I understand now so the trans code on the door sticker matches? And when you pulled the valves your sure the ball bearings are in there seated position you know tommy right now it would be a good idea to get another tranny junkyard/upullit the cheapest just to get it running right then you can bench this one and do a full rebuild on it you sunk in a lot of $$$$for this truck so $100.00 + fluid & filter just to get it so you can drive it isn't such a bad idea remember different ones take differ fluid type f dextron mercon I think type f and mercon are the same but check it out for the year tranny you get if you do that ,also the AOD is a 4 speed and the E40D is a 3 SPEED JUST CHECK THE TRANS CODE FOR WHAT CAME IN THE TRUCK BECAUSE THE PCM IF ORIGINAL KNOWS THAT IT'S A CERTAIN KIND OF TRANNY AND IS PROGRAMMED THAT WAY
That's why you got up to 3rd but not 4th maybe ok just a thinking
Another thing is the shift linkage and tv linkage the right ones for this tranny if it was swapped for a different one and those linkages were not changed the thing won't shift right and engine running will be affected obd1=13 code anyway I'm at work doing a 4.6 Romeo rebuild on a panther crown victoria P71 so I will get back to you tomorrow afternoon
Tommy remember the c4 is not an electronic transmission there will still be problems and I think that when the transmission was changed the guy didn't change the shift and tv linkages there both different from a E40D if that's what originally was in there the door sticker tranny code will tell you provide it's the original door on the truck and the sticker Vin matches the dash vin#
I'm just trying to make sure that everything that's supposed to be there is and I know that some of these came with AOD'S/4 SPEED & E40D/3 SPEED BUT THE PCM CONTROLS INSIDE ARE DIFFERENT AND THE SHIFT LINKAGE AND TV LINKAGE ARE DIFFERENT FOR BOTH AND AN ADJUSTMENT WON'T HELP IF ITS THE WRONG MATCH UP OF PARTS AND WHATEVER THE ORIGINAL IS SUPPOSED TO BE AOD/E40D THAT'S WHAT YOU HAVE TO GET FROM A YARD TOMMY THE C4 WILL NOT DO IT BECAUSE THE PCM WILL NOT KNOW OR SEE THE SHIFT PARAMETERS IT'S SUPPOSED TO OK I TRUST YOU THAT YOUR CHECKING EVERYTHING OUT, IT'S THE 13/33 CODES THAT ARE TELLING ME THAT THERE'S SOMETHING WRONG BECAUSE THE EGR WORKS OF VACUUM IN THIS TRUCK AND THE IDLE WITH NO ENGINE BRAKING AND13 CODE TELLS ME THAT THERE'S A VACUUM MISSING AND THAT THE LINKAGES MAY HAVE BEEN WRONG FROM THE START BEFORE YOU SHIFT KITTED IT AND NOW MORE PROBLEMS ARE MANIFESTING BECAUSE OF IT SO THAT'S WHY I SAY GET A YARD/UPULLIT TRANNY THEN DO A REBUILD ON THIS ONE AND YOU GOT IT MADE A SPARE TRANNY THAT YOU CAN KEEP OR RESELL TO GET $$$BACK I WORKED 16 HOURS YESTERDAY AND I JUST GOT HOME AND I'M GOING TO -ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ OUT I HAVE TO GO BACK AT 4pm TO HELP COVER FOR ANOTHER MECHANIC WHO HURT HIMSELF PLAYING FOOTBALL a broken arm and I'll be seeing 16 hours for at least 6-8 weeks 7 days oh boy I'll try to hit you up tonight if possible ok good luck stephen
Sticker is on door jamb, not door. Trans code is T. Cleaned governor. Replaced all leaking vacuum lines. Truck idles now. Have adjusted TV 50 times according to the book. Still will not shift out of 1st. Next step will be to drive it to the middle of a pasture and burn the whole truck.
Talked today with a buddy who rebuilds trannys professionally. His advice was do not rebuild it. He has had several AOD's fail shortly after rebuild and his shop will not warranty any work to the AOD. So, I have 2 choices now, save money for a new dealer transmission or convert to manual. Well, 2 mores choices, part the truck out or burn it.
Ok tommy don't deal with him he's full of it if there's a junkyard/upullit yard get another tranny from side front accident and drop it in some are only about a $100.00 if pulled alreadtv $300.00 and it might be guaranteed to work?by the junk yard after watch curt at monster transmission explain the rebuild of the AOD THE AFTERMARKET PARTS AVAILABLE ARE MUCH BETTER THEN THE OEM'S AND CHEAPER DON'T GIVE UP UNTIL YOU WIN AND THAT'S A REPLACEMENT TRANNY IN THE TRUCK THEN WHATEVER YOU CHOOSE AFTER THAT IS UP TO YOU BUT GET THE TRUCK DRIVEABLE AGAIN FOR THE BUCKS YOU PAID OK I'LL HIT YOU UP IN THE MORNING
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