This could be a loose fuse or a bad connector or the fan switch bad wire also but check this out if it's a lever or twist knob switch see if it has looseness in it does the lever move side to side or its not locking in position EX. LOW-MED-HIGH if so then when your hitting bumps the contacts in that switch disconnect and the fan stops working the air bag warning light is on the same circuit probably so there's a loss off either power or the ground and that makes the light come on next there is also a blower motor control module resistor that controls the heater/ac fan under the hood at the fan motor case check that connector and wires try wiggling it and see if you hear the fan stop these are a common problem for 3 reasons (1) mechanics trying to axcess the area can put pressure on this unit trying to get there arms in deep causing the plug to break or a solder joint to break on the circuit board inside it (2) this also can happen from pulling on it to unplug it or reconnecting it to much force on it (3) a wire on it was punctured to test or get power and not sealed causing corrosion to eat part of the wire so intermittent voltage is getting through and as the wire heats up it can't arc and the power break open circuit happens if you can take out the blower motor resistor and if it's abe to be taken apart (release tabs) only don't try to open a completely sealed unit water will get in it and more problems will come anyway if you can open it inspect the circuit board for solder joint breaks where the connector pins are on the board this is a very common problem and a quick resoldering will fix it but also check the whole board a bad soldering joint will show a circle on it in a ripple kind of appearance or just not enough solder on the pins on the connector part or a resistor capacitor inside okay so if you can check it out inside also if the plug connector looks burnt on the face that plugs into the module then there is definitely a problem there with the module or the inside of the plug is broken and wire separation from each other is lost causing wires that shouldn't make contact with each other to arc grounding out but this would most likely blow a fuse but is possible if only a tiny bit of contact happens so what I've explained to you here is definitely your problem you have to investigate and go through the process of eliminating possible causes okay but I would lean more towards the blower motor resistor/plug or a loose fuse in the fuse box obviously I'm not there to check myself and if your truck was worked on recently and this started go to that resistor ok and so you know where this info is coming from I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 + years of experience and I've seen a ton of blower motor resistors that have broken solder/plugs causing this problem on/off/on/off from bumpy streets good luck stephen
SOURCE: 1999 jeep Grand cherokee
If you have a connecting rod problem, likely it is not the rod itself that has failed, rather, the crankshaft bearing on that rod or the wristpin. Usually though when either has failed, the knocking is an all the time thing, varying with engine rpm. A good tech can usually tell the difference between the two just by listening. A beraing failure is generally also accompanied by a drop in engine oil pressure as well. not so for a wristpin. An intermittent noise (tapping) can also indicate a valve lifter problem... though a lifter can also make noise during a low oil pressure situation. Lifter noise is heard from the top of the engine, both other noises are from underneath.
I would first have a different shop give you a second opinion. If it turns out to be a rod bearing, generally this damages the crankshaft and also sends bearing material throughout the entire engine. To properly repair would require complete teardown and rebuild, or replacement of engine. This does not hold true for lifter or wristpin problems, unless severe, though either can be expensive, even if you do the job yourself..
How long is your powertrain warranty?
Definitely get a second opinion before doing anything else!
SOURCE: air bag light comes on intermdiately
it is the sensor located under the dashboard area. you can buy another one off the internet for 50.00. with instructions on how to remove the old one and then send it back for your deposit back. however, my light also comes on and off when the weather changes. i would ignore it unless it stays on for a few days. all it means is your airbag isnt working. i lived most my life without airbags.
SOURCE: Heat/AC Blower fan speed only works on High
hello, this sounds like a bad blower motor resistor!! its cheap and easy to change..if you need more info on locations let me know,, good luck.....marty
SOURCE: plenty of air but no heat
Check to see that the blend door linkage is hooked up. Doubtful it is heater core, as you had heat to one side and not the other. Check coolant control valve linkage, verify it is moving the coolant valve from off to on when you switch temperature from cold to hot. Verify you have coolant flow to the heater core by feeling the heater hoses where they enter the firewall. If all checks out well, then look at hvac controls individually.
SOURCE: 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L engine, Hemi, sensor code P1129
The OBD is not that simple.
All it is saying is that it does not like the air/fuel mixture.
That can be from fouled spark plugs, an open gas cap or other intake leak, a bad O2 sensor, PVC foam on the air mass sensor, throttle position sensor, etc.
It is just like any carb engine when the mixture is bad.
You can't just read a number and know what to replace.
You have to have a feel for the symptoms.
And if there are no other symptoms, it could be the code is simply the only thing wrong.
Personally my best guess would the air mass sensor.
Look the inside of the oil cap. If there is foam there, then there is likely foam in the air mass sensor as well. PVC systems always throw foam into the sensor, and the only solution is to splice longer hoses into the system and into a condenser of some sort. This is worse in northern climates, in the winter. Most cars in cold conditions have this happening all the time. But as long as the light goes off eventually, don't worry about it.
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I got to tell you go to Rock Auto.com and look up your truck and go to heat and a/c you can see a picture of what the blower motor resistor looks like so you know what it looks like
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