At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Re: 2003 Mercury Mountaineer will turn over but won't...
It can be many things I need to know if it has spark and fuel pressure . It could be the fuel pump or a bad crank sensor or even a bad coil .It could be as simple as the fuel shut as be tripped from being bumped . Need more information . Thanks
There is one for the 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. If you are smellign a "vinegar" odor, mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and pour it down the grid at the base of the windshield. It will take care of the smell.
Most of the 4.6 Litre engines have some form
of plastic cover, mine was held in place with two 11mm nuts at the front
and press-fit connection at the back. Remove this cover to gain access
to the spark plugs. You may need to disconnect the air hose going to the
throttle body and some additional vacuum hose connections. Mark them
with masking tape and numbers if you have any question about
re-attaching them correctly. Along each side of the intake manifold you
will see 4 round coils held in place with a 7mm bolt on each one. Remove
the 7mm bolts from each coil. Each of these coils has a connector that
will be disconnected by pinching the connector to release the catch and
pulling gently. Do not worry about marking them unless the wire harness
has been modified. The factory wire harness keeps the connectors next to
the correct coil.
Remove each coil and plug connector by gently turning the
unit to break the rubber loose from the manifold, then pulling up on the
coil/plug connector as a unit. Do not be alarmed if the rubber boot
cover comes off, you can easily reattach it to the coil. Once the coils
and rubber boots are removed, use your compressed air source or vacuum
to remove as much debris from around the spark plugs as possible.
Warning: Wear Eye Protection when using compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs using the 5/8" spark plug socket,
swivel, extension and ratchet. Some engine installations may require
additional extensions or swivels to get the back plugs removed. It
normally takes just an 1/8 turn to break the plugs loose and then about
4-6 full turns to fully remove the spark plugs. If the plug does not
come out with the socket, use the magnetic pickup tool to pull
the plug out. You will not be able to reach it with your fingers.
Using the feeler gauges gap your new spark plugs to the
correct gap for your vehicle. A typical
spark plug gap for this engine is .054 inch. With the plugs gapped, fit
the rubber fuel line to the top of a spark plug and then apply a small
dab of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. Work the anti-seize into
the threads a little bit and then insert the plug into the engine. The
rubber fuel line will prevent you from cross-threading the spark plug
and you should be able to turn the plug in about 3/4 turn or more
easily. If not, remove the plug and make sure that it has not picked up
any debris in the threads. If so, clear it out and try again. Once you
have all of the plugs started, use the 5/8" socket to tighten them just
1/8 turn past their stopping point. Do not over tighten as this is the
leading cause for plug-blowout with this engine series.
With all of the spark plugs back in, you can then proceed to
replace the coil/plug connectors. Replace the 7mm bolts for each coil
and tighten them snugly but do not over tighten. With the bolts tight,
the coil/plug connector should still rotate slightly. Reconnect the
electrical connectors for each coil by gently pushing them in place
until they click. They are indexed and will fit only in one direction. Reconnect
the air hose to the throttle body and any vacuum lines that were
removed. Replace the plastic engine cover and fasten it in place. That's
it, your done.
I have a 2003 Mountaineer that had the same symptoms. After doing some research, me and Google decided it was the Blend Door Actuator. It is a fairly difficult job due to having to take pretty much the whole dash off, but I did it myself with minimal experience. I included a few links.
http://redhouseon7th.com/redhouse/howto/2003FordExplorerBlendDoor/ (This is the guide I used.)
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
2:55
See more on our website: https://fuse-box.info/mercury/mercury-mountaineer-2002-2005-fuses-and-relaysFuse box diagram (location and ...
YouTube · Fuse Box Info · Dec 30, 2018
How can you decide if it is worth fixing if you have no idea what is wrong, it could be major or minor issue. Have it diagnosed before you decide. If it is not running the value of the truck is zip.
Sounds like a cylinder misfire to me. Scan your computer system for fault codes. If no codes are present, you can use mode 6 data to determine which cylinder or cylinders are not contributing and diagnose and repair accordingly.
CHECK BATTERY CABLES AND FOR CORROSION,A BAD GROUND OR BAD CONNECTION WILL CREATE ENOUGH RESISTANCE TO PREVENT STARTER TO CRANK OVER ENGINE. IF BATTERY HAS 12V DOESN'T MEAN IT'S GOOD,IT COULD HAVE ON 100 CCA'S, NOT ENOUGH.
There is one for the 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. If you are smellign a "vinegar" odor, mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and pour it down the grid at the base of the windshield. It will take care of the smell.
×