2000 Volkswagen Jetta 4. Gearshift rod bushes.

Most likely cause is the motor or the arm bushes are dry and seizing ,the bushes on the bottom of the arms where they go to the linkage ,try some a oil can with engine oil in and trickle some down soak down to the bushes with time and this may cure it ??

i would first inspect the shift rod bushings if they are all tight then suspect transmission trouble.but it is very common for the bushings to go bad.

identify the bar, purchase the bushings and screws and put it back on the car.

It's a dog bone. Only loosen the four bolts first, then remove the two at the subframe followed by the ones at the bell housing. Installation is reverse starting with the bell housing. You can buy something stiffer than stock although it's a bit harsh inside the cabin, loud vibration. This translates to more efficient torque to the wheels which is usually lost when softer bushings are installed. The twisting motion of a transverse engine during acceleration would be less transferring that kinetic energy to the wheels and not wasted. You can buy the redesigned stiffer mounts or use your old mount and purchase only the polyurethane bushings and install them. Or just keep it stock and buy the OEM bushings.

Yes. You'll need to swap your old speedo cable and the back up light switch is different. Also the 96 transmission uses the same clutch disc as the MK2 16v, which is different from the 8v disc, it's the number of splines on the input shaft. I'm putting a 95 Jetta 5 speed into my 1986 Scirocco. Make sure you replace the throw out bearing and the clutch rod seal and bushing in the end of the input shaft.

I recommend you get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for most auto parts stores ($20-$30). But to save you some money:
Tie Rods:
1. Loosen the lug nuts.
2. Raise front of vehicle.
3, Support it with jack stands.
4. Chock/Block the rear tires.
5. Set the parking brake.
6. Remove the front tire.
7. Mark the nut shaped end of the tie rod and the jam nut with a straight line on top.
8. Using two wrenches - one on the tie rod (nut shaped) end and the other on the jam nut,..loosen SLIGHTLY the jam nut (clockwise turn). While loosening the jam nut - make sure you count the number of turns 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 etc...
9. Using 11/32 Socket remove the tie-rod end to steering knuckle nut.
10. Use a tie rod end separator (fork) or ball joint separator (jaws) and separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
11. Before turning the tire rod off the steering arm: Count the number of turns coming off the arm using the mark you put on the tie rod nut shaped end.
Notice on the final turn off the arm what the mark position is. This wil be the position you start when screwing the new tie rod on.
12. Place the jam nut back just short of it's original position.
13. Screw the new tie rod back starting with that start position and with the same number of turns.
14. Connect the tie rod and steering knuckle.
15. Tighten the tie rod to steering knuckle nut to 40 ft-lbs.
16. The tie rod end and jam nut should then be tightened. They should be close anyway within a 1/8 turn.
17. Install lug nuts.
18. Lower Van.
19. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Using the everyother nut until all are tightened process.
20. Wheel alignment? Test drive Van and have checked at an alignment shop.

The Stabilizer Bar Bushings:
Steps 1. thru Step 6 above. Remove both tires.
7. Remove bolts (should be 10 of them) attaching the cradle plate to the bottom of the front suspension cradle.
8. Remove the cradle plate.
9. Remove the stablizer bar links from the stabilzer bar. Confused? There is a straight bar coming from the Strut down to the sway (stabilizer) bar (which goes from one side of the Van to the other). Remove this nut.
10. Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar bushing retainers (one on each side) from the front suspension cradle.
11. Be careful this bar is heavy and will fall suddenly and may hit you on the head!!
12. Remove the bar and bushings as a unit (together).
13. Install the new bushings with the slits facing the rear of the Van and the square corners facing the ground.
14. Make sure you clean the areas on the bar where the bushings are positioned.
15. Use lubricant (non-petroleum based, like vegetable oil) to easy re-assembly.
16. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.
Hints:
a. Align the stabilizer bar in position using the depressions in the cradle.
b. Do not tighten all-the-way the bushing retainers until later.
c. Tighten stabilizer bar to link stabilzer (sway) bar to 65 ft-lbs.
d. Tighten bushing retainer nuts to 50 ft-lbs.
e. Tighten the cradle plate bolts:
M14 at 123 ft-lbs
M12 at 80 ft-lbs.

Let mne know if this worked for you. Good Luck!!
Any other questions? Drop me a line on fixya.com!

wiper motor run on oilite bush it mite be dry or wear on them. make new or press new oil into the bush.
also check the brushes for 100% contact on armature.

I had a car do this once and the problem was simple, the gear shift rod had loosened and shifted position. Check the rod at the transmission and on the shifter.

Front wheel drive cars with transaxles use a shifter cable that runs from the shifter to the transaxle. Have a look under the hood and see if the cable broke loose from the linkages, or from the shifter itself.
Best thing to do in this situation is to have a mechanic look at it. There's really nothing that anyone here can fix without having a look at the car and troubleshooting it.

Check and make sure the brake lights work, if the system doesn't get a signal that the brake pedal is pressed it won't come out of part, it is the park interlock safety feature, the problem won't be bulbs, it will be a brake light switch problem, if the brake light do work, the next place to look is the park release solenoid, it will be on the steering column most likely down low under the dash.