Question about Dodge Cars & Trucks
I have replaced the crank sensor, the cam sensor and the ECM. no codes initially all gauges and electronics seemed to be fine. the fuel pump is running and I jumped the TIPM for good measure. seems to be no fuel injector pulse Currently the truck will start and run for about 20 min then will cut out and not restart until cooled down. no codes until recently now have code for intake air temp sensor.
If you don't have a code reader that reads live data, borrow one or go to an auto parts house and 'rent' one. Watch your intake air temp (and coolant temp) as the engine warms up. If you don't see the temperatures going up (coolant more than IAT), you may have a bad temp sensor. The computer feeds more fuel when the engine is cold, and may be running the engine excessively rich when it is warmed up.
Posted on Jul 26, 2019
Testimonial: "I have a scanner and will monitor that this evening and let you know. Thank you for the direction."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel
do you still have the old style lift pump. located on the fuel filter housing or has it already been updated to in tank style. sounds like that to me. i've done a ton of them. chrysler has a whole conversion kit for this mod
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
SOURCE: 95 saturn won't start when hot
Blair, I would take a look at he TPS (throttle position sensor) located on the throttle body. In other words, it sounds as thought sensor when heated is changing its value to "open" or "shorted".
If the car starts OK when cold, use a hair dryer to heat the TPS when the engine is cold to see if you can duplicate the problem.
Also is the a service engine light on? Codes?
If you have a "digital volt/ohm meter" available you can read the variable resistance of the sensor when the problem occurrs to determine if the sensor is defective.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
I checked all of the fuseable links and they were all good. Next I decided to check all the power wires to the ECM and also the grounds from a wiring diagram because the Mil is controlled by the ecm and the bulb was good. The ecm is located behind the glove box. Bingo, the orange wire was only reading 3-5 volts at the ECM, but 12.5 volts after the fuseable link at the underhood fuse block (passenger side firewall). I ran a temp wire directly from after the fuseable link to the orange wire at the ecm and the ecm turned back on and the Mil or "check engine soon" light came on too. The truck started up and has never run smoother.
Note that at first the truck just stalled out and I could restart it right away with no error codes. Eventually the stalling became more frequent with longer reset times required. Once it threw a "code 54" and I thought it was fuel related as each time the gas stopped and I could still start the truck with gas poured into the TB. Ignition ok. My fuel pump turned on and ran if I tested it. I even checked the pressure regulator and the fuel filter to no avail.The orange wire that powers up the ecm is technically part or the fuel pump relay circuit as it also feeds the fuel pump relay 12.5 volts all the time. The thin orange wire from the fuse block is joined to two other thin orange wires in the large group of wires that heads to the ecm along the firewall behind the engine. I had to dig it out of the many wires to find it and remove a lot of tape. It is amazing to me that this one little orange wire could cause so much grief and be so hard to track down. I could not have afforded to take this problem to the Dealer.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Replace the TFI module. Ford back in 1986 thur 1993 had problems like the one you wrote about. TFI module gets hot and shuts car or truck off then when it cools sometmies starts and sometimes not.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
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