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1998 ford expedition how to install rear spider gears
Removed right rear drive axle to replace studs spider gears fell out having trouble installing gears back into place gears jam into inner housing not enough clearance removed axle again checked clutches in back of axle gear installed axle still have same problem gears jam quarter of the way into position could use some help thanks
Re: 1998 ford expedition how to install rear spider...
I accidentally rotated the spider gears out when putting a new axle seal on a 04' F-150. I didn't have the tool to compress the clutch packs so I removed the differential carrier and took it and the spider gears down to the local Ford dealership and they put them back in for $20.
Re: 1998 ford expedition how to install rear spider...
Find a PICK-your-PART auto salvage and go get a whole rearend for $150 or so. You will be way far ahead. Or submit to the BLUE OVAL (dealership). Sorry no easy fix.
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its not that big of a job block your front wheels raise the rear end and support with two jack stands remove your tires drain your rear differential and remove the differential cover remove the 10mm bolt that holds the stud in place when you remove the stud the side gears will fall out giving you room to push the axles forward so you can remove the retainers once the retainer is removed you can remove the axle just watch the spider gear doesn't fall out of the differential do the same for the other axle once the axles are removed use a seal puller to remove the old seals and a seal installer tool to press the new ones in place both tools are available at any local auto parts jobber. After installing the new seals put some white lithium grease in the seal and install the axles line the axle with your spider gear and push all the way forward then install your retainer and pull the axle back seating the retainer do the same with the other axle after that is done install one side gear push you stud in place and line it up with the other side gear be very careful if there are shims on any of the gears keep them with that gear and make sure they go back in the place they came from try to mark them with a paint marker before removing. After installing the stud with the gears install your bolt I would use lock tight blue on the bolt and clean the rear cover put your permatex blue on the cover, bolt it up and fill the rear differential with quality 85w90 gear oil make sure if your vehicle calls for a friction modifier add that to the mix if you don't you will get allot of chatter possibly damage to the clutch pack and don't believe lube adds when they say modifier not needed if you use there lube That is a Royal mistake I replaced all the fluids with the brand boasting that's all you need and in one weeks time my rear clutch pack was chattering like a kid out in the cold I then added the friction modifier and problem solved it went away, Your done good luck and God Bless
You will need an internal bearing puller. You will have to remove the rear axle by pulling off the differential cover. Then remove the bolt holding the spider gear cross shaft in place. Remove the shaft and spider gears. If your tire is already removed and brake drum is off, push in the axle and remove the circle clip. Once this is out you can slide your axle out you can remove the backing plate for your brakes and get to the bearing. Pull the seal out and pull out the bearing with a puller and slide hammer. Install the new bearing by hitting on the outside race ONLY. Install a new seal and install in reverse order.
that sounds about right. 1.3 hours. you have to take the tire off, brake calp, rotor. then the rear diff cover.then the center pin for the spider gears remove the c-clip then you can remove the axle. then you need to replaced the axle bearing and seal then reverse the steps and fill the diff with 75-140 with the addtive if it has a limted slip rearend. so 1.3 hours is ok
Remove the rear cover. Remove the 5/16 (8mm) bolt that holds the center pin and slide the pin out. Push in on the axle (from the outer stud/drum end). When the "C" clips fall out (inside of the rear-Pumpkin) that hold the semi-floating axle in place, slide the axle out. The gears should come right out.
First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.
remove rear cover from rear differential. catch nasty smelling oil (gear lube) in drain pan. remove bolt on side of carrier to be able to pull pin out from so called spider gears. if you have limited slip you may hve to pull S spring out from between side gears. then push axles in and remove C clips fom end of axles. then pull axles out. installation is in reverse of removal. make sure that the C clips are well installed in the groves whe reinstalling axles, or they could fall out and axles will come out while driving. bad deal.if you have limited slip get a bottle of friction modifier from parts store to put in there with new gear lube . is a small bottle like 6 to 8 oz.kepps clutch packs from chatering on turns.
No need to open the differential and remove anything. Remove the caliper and rotor. Remove the four nuts on the backside of the backing plate. Use a slide hammer and pop the axle out. If you don't have a slide hammer, you can use a chain. Attach one link of the chain over a lug stud and install a lug nut, give yourself about two feet of slack and attach another link on another stud. Grab the chain where it hangs the lowest (place a rag over it cause this part may hurt)and give it a good outward snap. I hope this helps.
No you can replace the gears by removing the differential cover. Remove the gear pin and slightly pull the axles out of the gears. unbolt the drive shaft from the differential first you will then be able to move the gears so you can get at the pins.
It's not easy to put them back, but if you get the side gears in position with the axles bumped out as far as you can, the smaller spider gears can be "walked" into place. Try having your buddy rotate one of the wheels slowly until each one fits in. It's tricky but you'll get it.
not a good idea to chg. just pinion, best to chg. both ring and pinion, and for that you will need a dial indiactor, so you can get the right back lash. but my advice to you is, if you have never done this before it best to have a professional do it for you. ring and pinion is not cheap, if you don't get it right it could be an expensive learning curve. also are you sure its rearend? chk.all avenues first OLD SCHOOL.
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