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YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE ALL YOUR TIMMING MARKS LINE UP SET THE CRANK PULLY ON TDC AND MAKE SURE ALL THE DOTS ON THE CAM AND PUMP GEARS LINE UP YOU ARE PROBABLY ONE TOOTH OUT SOME WARE
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when replacing the pump if the timing belt has to be removed , it is not necessary to replace the belt PROVIDING THAT THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE IS FOLLOWED
before removing the belt mark it with an arrow indication direction of movement replace the belt with the arrow correctly position as before removal
timing belts ( for want of a better description) breakin from running in a set direction
if replaced running in the reverse direction then the "breakin" gets far worse and early belt failure occurs
when the belt was replaced , if the cam seals , crank seals idler and hydraulic adjuster were not replaced then it might be worthwhile to have it done with the water pump as oil on a belt reduces the life to about 1/2
run fault codes and check for cam / crank position sensor . Check that the cam shaft is turning ( broken timing belt/chain) check immobiliser is operational
OPEN THE AFM COVER SHORT PIN 1 AND 2. THIS IS THE PUMP SWITCH. TURN IGNITION KEY TO RUN POSITION. YOU SHOULD HEAR A WHIRRING SOUND FROM THE PUMP IN THE GAS TANK.
ALSO CHECK FUEL PUMP RELAY
You should be able to hear the pump in the tank running. If you don't check the fuel pump relay. If you hear the pump running then the line/filter could be plugged. The white relay is the tank selector relay, the green relay is the fuel pump relay. If the green relay is bad you will have a bad time getting the replacement. The new relays from the dealer and parts stores are all 5 pin. The green relay is a 4 pin.
Also your genset probably has a pump that pulls from that tank on its own.
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