My steering sometimes goes stiff under braking mainly when turning left. i am not sure what the problem is, but suspect front wishbone. please help.

stiff steering could be slipping belt for the power steering. while stationary, turn wheels to left and have a look back of wheel see if anything catching, only way.

The only thing that would make steering real stiff,
would be the bearings on top of the front struts,or
a failed steering rack.
You should be changing the Power Steering Fluid on
all your vehicles every 3 years, along with the transmission
or they both will fail for sure
Add some LubeGard for P/S --- after you flush the steering
Make sure you don't get the purple & yellow bottle,that is for honda Dealers also have steering additive similar to lubegard
Bottom ball Joints may be shot as well,doubt they have grease
fittings,the new ones will if you install Moog or a quality brand,not
Ford Motorcraft parts

Does the engine running? unless you have the belt gone off the pulleys. do check under the bonnet.

It could be a powersteering leak. Sometimes there is a shaft seal under the steering column inside that needs to be greased because f squeaks. The brake problem is from warped rotors, most likely the front since you feel it in the steering wheel.

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Check your gearshift position. There are interlocks for the Ignition both with the Brake pedal, the steering wheel, and the gearshift. With your gearshift, if you have an Automatic, there is a trigger to press so the Shifter will move. If the trigger is stuck into the fixture the Key will not come out or the Ignition switch may not turn.

With the steering wheel, sometimes there is pressure from how the front tires where left when the car was parked. The steering assembly is pinched and must be moved to the side that is jammed so the Ignition Key will turn.

The Brake pedal, there are switches under the dash at the top of the brake pedal lever. These must align to let the gearshift move which in turn may free the Keyswitch. They get hit by feet frequently and may need to be replaced or repositioned.

Make sure you are using the right set of Keys and it is possible for the Ignition switch to break inside.

I hope this helps you.

bad steering problems,,your steering rack most likely,but,have you recently been stuck in ditch? when wheels are straight, look at front of car when parked. do wheels look funny? one going one way, and the other going the other? may be alignment. is it leaking any fluid on either side of the front of the car? drivers side? passenger side? if it's not out of alignment,,,wheels out of alignment,,the steering rack is the problem. it may be faulty. if not leaking fluid,it may still be bad. first i would make a visual test look under the vehicle while someone turned the steering wheel to right and left while car is in park,emergency brake on!! look at the steering arms while they turn the steering wheel from right to left. no fluid leaks? any resistance in turning the wheel? any leaks,if so,go to leak and repair with steering line replacement.no leaks? suspect a bad steering rack. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com i love to volunteer

The best way to check is to lift the corner of the vehicle clear f the ground and then with a trolley jack lift the lower wishbone to put pressure on the suspension spring. This removes any force on the ball joints and bearings associated with the wheel hub. Grab the wheel 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and rock the wheel from side to side to side. If there is any slack or minor play you will feel it first and possible see and hear it. Now take the wheel in the 6 o'clock and noon positions and and again check for play. Now remove the wheel and apply the rocking motions again to the naked hub. You should be able to see any fault with the steering knuckle, the wishbone control arm ball joints and bushes along with any play in the hub bearing. The bearing should run smooth and you should neither feel or hear any roughness from the bearing. If there is a lot of play detected try this: Remove the locking pin on the main bearing nut and then tighten the nut until free rotation of the hub begins to become stiff. Now loosen the main nut by two flats only and refit the locking pin. Refit the wheel. When driving, a worn bearing is indicated by a persistent whining growl. On front wheels the noise often gets worse during a turn as the weight of the vehicle is transferred. While the wheel is off check the condition of the brake rotor ensuring there are no warps or cracks. A damaged rotor is indicated often by a thump thump sound front he wheel and this is accentuated and felt through the brake pedal when the brakes are applied

it could be a poor connection somewhere, check the main fuse box under the hood for any loose connection

The power steering rack mounted to the front frame is what is left. Assuming no blockage in line and also cooler located to the front right under ignition coil.