NO SPARK NO INJECTOR PULSATE NO 8 VOLT POWER TO THE CAM CRAN SENSORS NO GROND ON THE BLUE BLACK STRIP WIRE TERMINAL NO. 12

YOU NEED EXPERT TEST EQUIPTMENT,,YOU NEED DEALER TECK HELP. TAKE IT OR TOW IT TO A DODGE DEALER

Hi mate start at the easiest point which will be to check your EARTH to make sure everything is earthed.

you did not say what year and yes, it makes a difference. Pull off an injector connector and with the key on, one of the two wires should have 12 volts. If not, check the injector fuse. If OK, it could be a crank sensor or cam sensor (crank sensor is more likely if there is also no spark).

Hi, here are some tests you can do to diagnose the problem. Please let me know if you have questions.

First, use a voltmeter or 12 volt test light to check for power on the red wire going to pin 8 of the ignition control module when the key is on. The module is in the left front corner of the engine compartment.




If there is no power, the problem is the ignition switch or EEC relay. If there is power, next, check the ignition coil as listed below.

IGNITION COIL TESTINGPrimary and Secondary Circuit Tests

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF , disconnect the battery, then detach the wiring harness connector from the ignition coil to be tested.
2. Check for dirt, corrosion or damage on the terminals.

PRIMARY RESISTANCE

1. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the following terminals on the ignition coil, and note the resistance:

Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines


B+ to Coil 1 B+ to Coil 2 B+ to Coil 3
The resistance between all of these terminals should have been between 0.3-1.0 ohms. If the resistance was more or less than this value, the coil should be replaced with a new one.

SECONDARY RESISTANCE

Fig. Fig. 1: Engine ignition coil harness connections-3.0L and 4.0L engines

1. Measure, using the ohmmeter, and note the resistance between each corresponding coil terminal and the two spark plug wire towers on the ignition coil. The coil terminals and plug wires towers are grouped as follows:

Except 2.3L, 2.5L and 5.0L engines

Terminal 3 (coil 1)-spark plugs 1 and 5 Terminal 2 (coil 3)-spark plugs 2 and 6 Terminal 1 (coil 2)-spark plugs 3 and 4

If the coils test good, move on the the crankshaft sensor.
Using a DVOM set to the DC scale to monitor less than 5 volts, measure the voltage between the sensor Cylinder Identification (CID) terminal and ground by backprobing the sensor connector. If the connector cannot be backprobed, fabricate or purchase a test harness. The sensor is okay if the voltage reading varies more than 0.1 volt with the engine running at varying RPM. (check both the blue and gray wires at the ignition module with the engine cranking.)

Fig. Fig. 3: CKP sensor wire harness connections for the 4.0L (VIN X and E) engines


If there is power and both the coils and sensor check good, replace the ignition control module.

checked the spark plug wires if is cracked P0340 is no cam signalat the PCM is. The camshaft position sensor information, along with the crankshaft position sensor information, is used control the fuel injection synchronization. The excess heat from the catalytic converter indicatesunburned fuel going out the exhaust. The catalytic converteris designed to burn any fuelleft in the exhaust. It sounds like your injectors are definitely out of sync dumping raw fuel out the exhaust. Since youreplaced the both the sensors and the PCM, it sounds like a wiring problem betweenone of the sensors and the PCM. Always use a digital multi-meter so you don't blow the PCM. Pull the cam sensor connector and check, with the key on, for about 8VDC on the orange wire (power from the PCM), and put the negative lead on the black/light blue wire (ground.) If you get about 8 volts both of those 2 wires are good. That just leaves thetan/yellow wire (sensor signal.) The signal should fluctuate 0 to 5 volts as the cam notches pass the sensor. To check the wire you would have to probe this wire at the PCM with all the connections put together, key on, and engine rotating (either by hand or with the starter.) The crank sensor wiring could be checked basically the same way. Overheating the cayalytic converter can cause the ceramic beads inside of it to crack, requiring replacement. Don't overheat the converters if you can help it. Turning the key on with a sensor unplugged will usually set an OBD code that will need to be cleared. It sounds like your on the right track. Let us know how it goes. P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
With a P0340 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try:

• Visually inspect all the wiring and connectors in the circuit
• Check for continuity in the circuit wiring
• Check the operation (voltage) of the camshaft position sensor
• Replace the camshaft position sensor as required
• Check the crankshaft position circuit as well
• Replace circuit wiring and/or connectors as required
• Diagnose/replace the PCM as required

You could still have powert at the plug. A noid light only tests a completed circuit.
Check for power with a volt meter or test light. There should be power with the key on. If there is power. then you have to look at the crank sensor, cam sensor, and ecm. Crank sensors are mostly for the spark. Cam sensors are mostly for the injectors. But they both work together to send a signal to the ecm, which controls the injectors ground. If you have 12 volts at the injector plug, then I would start with the cam sensor. Also have the ecm checked for codes. this will tell you alot.
Randy

At injector's, need to check if you have ground pulsation, to check, connect test light on pos (+) battery terminal, now your set to check ground, at injector harness, probe wire's, while some one cranks engine, look for pulsation, if you don't have pulsation, it will need a computer, injector pulsation is control by the computer, if no pulsation, then no fuel can get into cylinder.

1. Locate the EFI main relay in the upper left side of the dash. Check the two Red wires for battery voltage with the key on. Check the Light Green wire for battery voltage from the computer key on.

2. At the computer check terminal 79 for battery voltage key on. Terminal 79 is a Yellow wire.

3. Check all power and ground inputs to the computer.

4. If the power and ground inputs are good at the computer check for a shorted 5 volt reference at the throttle position sensor and the boost sensor. A shorted 5 volt reference can cause no start, no spark with no injector pulse. 1. Check for the AC voltage waveform from the Crank sensor making it all the way to the PCM. On this Subaru, if it had a crank sensor signal, no cam sensor signal, you would see injector pulse, no spark. If it had cam sensor signal, no crank sensor signal, you would not see spark or injector pulse. Hope i helped if any more ?'s feel free to ask.....

the crank sensor sends the signal to the coil, i would check it next

Crank Sensor: Passenger side of transmission just to right and above the differential cover. Has 3 wires:

Light Blue/Dark Blue stripe - Signal
Dark Red - 8v supply
Black/Light Blue stripe - Ground

If the car runs or cranks, you can test this sensor by first checking for power on RED wire with key ON. Should be 8-9.5 volts DC. Furthermore, connect a dwell meter to the signal wire by probing the back of the connector. Dwell reading should be 49-51%. If not, its likely bad.

If you remove the sensor, you MUST replace the paper spacer on the end of the sensor or you risk damaging the sensor or even the torque converter drive plate otherwise. Also make sure O-ring is in good shape and positioned properly.

Cam Sensor: Facing Engine, it is on the driver side timing case housing, on top of the round part, just to the right of the fuel rail pipe where there is a capped fuel valve.

Has 3 wires:

Tan/Yellow stripe - Signal
Dark Red - 8v supply
Black/Light Blue stripe - Ground

Testing is same as for Crank Sensor.