Can someone explain exactly what happens --electronically -- when you attempt to start an accord?
That is, turning the ignition switch activates the main relay, which sends power to the fuel pump and to the ecu... etc.
Basically, I am trying to troubleshoot why I cannot get my 95 Accord LX to start. I have power enough, but it just won't turn over and ignite.
That means, electrical, fuel, or air is the issue. I've eliminated air, the fuel pump is operational (I can hear it when I turn the ignition switch to on), so I suspect it is not fuel, but that is all I've done to verify that.
To test the electrical, first, I pulled the cord from the distributor that leads to the ignition coil. Conducted a spark test and saw nothing. Also, did a simple spark test with a spark plug pulled. Nothing.
So, I am lead to believe it is electrical.
Read some, which lead me to assess the main relay. I was supposed to feel/hear two clicks upon turning the ignition to ON. One for the fuel pump and one for the ECU. I only could sense one click, so I replaced the unit, and clearly felt two clicks upon setting the ignition to ON, but no luck.
This seems to leave me with: ignition coil, igniter, or distributor, but I contend that if a spark test shows nothing coming from the ignition coil, it seems pointless to consider the igniter or distributor. Is that right?
Is there anything else in the sequence that I am overlooking -- the ECU itself, maybe?
A little more background:
My wife was driving it around one afternoon when it simply cut off. It did not sputter or anything; it was running normally and simply turned off. Trying to restart, everything seemed normal (all sounds normal, engine turning), but it simply would not start. That continues to be the case, plenty of power, no ignition.
Help... and thanks in advance.
YOUR CAR HAS TRANSISTORIZED ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM.BECAREFUL IT HAS HIGHER VOLTAGE THAN CONVENTIONAL SYSTEMS.PROBLEM IS IN IGNITION SYSTEM FIRST CHECK DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR. MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT WORN OUT. IF ALL IS GOOD CHECK THE IGNITION FUSE AND.CHECK TO SEE IGNITION COIL AND IGNITION MODULE GETTING BATTERY POWER.IF BOTH GETTING POWER.REMOVE IGNITION COIL.CHECK ITS RESISTANCE WITH A VOLT OHM METER.TO MAKE SURE ITS NOT OPEN.IF COIL IS GOOD PROBLEM IS THE ICM OR IGNITION CONTROL MODULE.ANOTHER THING CHANGE PLUGS + WIRES IF IT BEEN A WHILE.
Well seems i would normaly says its the coil but i have my fellings after reading all your info that you may have a dead short leadings to your coil, a dead ecu or a bad coil... hear is why if you replaced the relay and found 2 clicks then the system arched voltage back through the wire untill it fried your relay so i feel that your problem is after the relay, not before you will need a wireing diagram to test your wires, this is where i would start simply because its the cheapest thing to start with. once you have checked the wires if that is not it I can get you a test procidure to eliminating the ecu as the fualt I will have to have a little more info than just the modle and year... Modle, year, engine size, sohc, dohc ????
good luck let me know if you need more help
I have a 95 Accord too and it also died when I was driving it. I did the same thing you did I check the ignition coil, I put a new distributor and a new oil pressure sending unit. All for nothing. When I took it to the mechanic because I gave up trying to fix the little things myself, they opened the cylinder head and found out that the camshaft had broke. How I have no idea. It could have been the 210,000 mile on it or maybe it need it the timing belt replaced which I was planning on doing this summer. So anyway I am not putting a new engine in it.
SOURCE: battery tests good but battery has low voltage
you cannot get this sort of information its like proverbal rocking horse brown stuff ,dont want people like me doing repairs that the dealer wants ------- what sort of amperage are you drawing ,as i suspect either a low reserve amperage battery in your terms its sulphated up and need renewing or the alternator diode pack has a diode breaking down .Trust me you test a battery with a voltmeter ,only test for a battery is a drop tester ,your car will draw power when not used ,anything from clock to alarm and radio memory ,so check the battery with a drop tester as i think this is your problem
If you own a Honda Accord, you know they rarely give any
trouble. ... My 1995 Honda Accord Window Won't Close ...
are a bundle of complicated electronics, lots of wiring and more computing
power than the average computer from 1990. That ...
http://www.ehow.com/how_4520901_fix-power-windows-honda-accord.html
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I have the same issue on my Honda accord 1995 EX. the same thing I can not see any spark in the spark plug. please I need help. any one that can give me a good solution is going to get paid.
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