2005 Volvo S40 T5 Logo

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James Posted on Jun 30, 2019

2005 Volvo S40 T5 that I drove for 2 miles, parked in garage and noticed engine was HOT! Took 5 hours to cool down. No leaks, coolant and oil levels are good. A/C is cold. What should I do? Thanks!

  • Larry Ng
    Larry Ng Jul 21, 2022

    so never in life checked coolant levers per the glove box users guide, on dead cold engine.???????oops

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geoffa1224

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  • Posted on Jun 30, 2019
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Possible water pump failure. Was temp guage showing "hot" ? , if not maybe coolant sensor issue. Had the car just been driven hard ? Any pressure in coolant expansion tank ?

Testimonial: "Hi and thank you for your response. The temp gauge showed normal not hot at all. I had only driven 2 miles in a residential zone, so it was not driven hard.I didn't try to open the coolant expansion tank,so not sure about pressure. I appreciate your assistance, I'll have to check the water pump :)"

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1985 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2009

SOURCE: coolant leak 1992 toyota pickup

do you know if they replaced the O ring rubber that connects the pipe under the intake Mark?
One of its trademarks is it only leaks after the vehicle sets overnight.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 volvo s40 t5 how to reset oil light

turn the key on to position 1 preset miliage trip button anh hold for 2 second release and turn key to position 2 hold within 4 secods and hold til manitance info clears.

Ticodude

Christian

  • 53 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 29, 2008

SOURCE: #5 cylinder misfire

I have a corolla and had #4 cylinder misfire also diagnosed at autozone. After changing the spark plugs, problem persisted, along with the same error code, so they recommended changing the spark plug wires, and that is what fixed it. I would have changed the rotor cap too, but was low on dough. Glad that was not the problem.

Nicksworld

  • 11 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 06, 2009

SOURCE: vauxhall zafira overheating

It sounds to me like your thermosdate is not opening and it should be replaced.

Anonymous

  • 58 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 12, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 ford focus overheating

its most likly the termostat

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Symptoms bad thermostat

Did you check the water pump? That is what is sounds like.
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Coolant ran out of the bottom of the car. Nechanic found hose leak. Car is running rough while sitting. Could it be a Gasket?

if you haven't had any coolant in your car for a week and you have been driving it you may have blown your head gasket, even though you haven't got 'milkey goo' on your oil dip stick. check for goo under your oil cap to see and have it tested at a garage. but from what ive read im almost certain its your head gasket. hope this helps you and beware of the dangers of a running engine so keep hands and loose clothing out of the way of moving parts and engines get very hot so be careful what you touch.
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2005 Jeep Liberty 3.7L overheating

it's overheating, for sure,
is coolant levels dropping? cold checked at rad cap?
"pulled over and found a hose to cool the radiator and hose near the thermostat,"
i can not understand this statement"above"
if it overheat only parked, check fan for full ops.
if overheats moving too, wont stay cool moving fast
then:
bad rad cap
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belts slipping (to water pump)
rad cores blocked (IR thermo gun it) ask
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I have a s60 parked it in car park Friday PM came back to puddle under radiator drove slowly home (only 1 mile) warning coolant low on dash. Filled up with antifreeze/water mix to max level once cooled...

The low coolant sensor is in the resivor where you put the coolant in. Since you drove it such a short distance the thermostat probably did not open to allow the coolant to pass. There is a skid plate underneath the car you can remove to find the source of the leak.
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Engine temp gage spikes to 260 degree when

are you sure the cooling fans are working?
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have you lifted the hood and heard the coolant bubbling into the overflow?
Or heard the tinging sound of a red hot engine?
If he did a liquid test with the dye,and it changed colors it should have changed very fast,
Another thing to think about if he was to take the fan belt off,and pull the thermostat housing off,and removed the thermostat,Now pour coolant into the thermostat hole to almost the top,Now start the car and see which side the bubbles come from,left or right,that will be the gasket that is leaking not both.
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That sounds like a thermostat. Usually not an expensive problem, but one you want to address soon. Right now, it's convinced that the engine is hot, and is wide open. It could easily flip to thinking that the engine is cold and stick closed. THEN your radiator WILL boil over.
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Overheating

Going through the same thing with my 2000 2.7 l intrepid.

Thermostat, water pump, plugged radiator, blown head gasket? I tinker with autos, but on a very basic level.

My story and course of action (that you may be able to glean some ideas from)
I live in NW Indiana, and was on vacation on ease coast. Noticed water/antifreeze leaking from vehicle in a New Jersey Rest stop. Don't believe car was overheating at the time, but possible that I drove the car for up to a mile in this state.

Had vehicle towed to a local garage (Friday afternoon, so thought garage and not dealer was best option for geting back on the road asap).

Garage diagnosed water pump, and replaced it ($750 US). Said there was some antifreeze in oil, so engine flushed oil system, coolant, replaced oil filter, and refilled oil and coolant.

Car operated fine for 1 week of pretty hard driving (both local and highway driving, and then rather large hills in Maine). Then on way home, near Erie PA, car overheated on Toolway. Noticed overheating pretty quickly, within 1/2 mile.

Towed off of tollway, where refilled Coolant (added about a quart). Drove car around local town for 10 - 15 minutes, with no problems. No sweet smell from tailpipe (that would indicate possible head gasket leak), no antifreeze apparent on oil dipstick, and no visible coolant leak on or under engine, so drove on US 20 into Erie, going both 35 mph ;local, and 55 mph between-town driving. No problems. Stopped at place to eat in Erie, gave car a chance to cool down to check coolant levels. No leaks (external anyways) and coolant level where I left it.

Started again, and after approx. 3 - 4 miles of driving, car overheated (almost instantaneous going from normal temp to overheating (noticed it within a block). Overheated 1 block from Dodge dealer on Sun. afternoon. Let car cool down, ensured coolant full, and drove to hotel 2 miles away for night (no problems with overheating, but car may not have gotten back up to temp in those 2 miles- was approx 65 Deg Far ambient. Noticed that when the car does "act up" and heads for overheating, the vents blow cold, even though set for high heat.

Got to Dodge dealer the next morning. Dealer said no external leaks, and no mixing of oil and antifreeze (mixing could indicate blown head gasket). Diagnosed thermostat ($340 for parts and labor), and would be fixed in 3.5 hours. 8 hours later, dealer said finally had thermostat changed, but still overheating. Would try to reblead air out of the cooling system (air or air pockets in the system could cause overheating). Still no luck - car was overheating. So dealer said next thought would be partially plugged radiator. Plan- next morning, send radiator out for testing.

Well, radiator was sent out, and some gunk was found and cleaned from radiator
($225 US), but dealer said was not enough to be causing the problems I was getting. Next guess was to check the water pump, at $700 -$800 labor to see if it was defective. Dealer said, but I have not confirmed, that car would idle fine for unlimited time without overheating, but when took out for drive, it would overheat. The cooling fan was functioning properly.

Well, at that stage, decided to just tow car home, and fix there so I rented UHAUL truck and tow dolly ($350 US), plus the gas such a vehicle consumes.

Take to NW Indiana garage, and they say,

check water pump to see if defective ($650), replace water pump if defective, and if not defective, pull heads to inspect for blown head gasket (an additional $450 labor). Said exhause gases could be internally leaking into the coolant (because bad head gasket) and causing the car to overheat. Said may consider just putting in a used engine- may be cheaper. Well I know the previous owner, and the car was maticulously kept, so I say I need to think it over. Drove car home (about 2 miles) and coolant temp gage didn't budge an inch- coolant level was fine, so who knows what happened to it...

Checked from garage that replaced the water pump, and said it was a dealership new waterpump that was installed, with all new gaskets, and did NOT replace timing chain.

Go and talk to dad (aren't dad's great!). Dad has rebuild many motors in his day- was a millright who completly rebuilt from scratch Model A's , 1940's sedans, and some cars in the 1970s and 1980s. Successfully rebuilt 2 automatic transmissions in the 70s and 80s as well. Dad's getting up in age (mid seventies) so didn't want to burdeon him, just wanted his input. He said, consider water pump, but he seemed to remember a test you could do on the coolant to check for exhaust gases. After trips to 4 local Auto parts stores (some "fake" ones like Autozone, and a couple real ones), found a guy who knew of the test, and ordered one for me. So, for $40, hopefully will be able to see if there are exhaust gases in the coolant, indicating a blown head gasket.

Will have to make some decisions based on test results. Have about $1600 or so in car already. May try to do work myself- who knows!

Just trying to explain my overheating issues, and giving some insight into potential causes, and remedies that were explored in my case so they may be of help with you.
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