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1993 DODGE DAKOTA V8-318 5.2L EVERY 3 TO 5 DAYS TRUCK CUTS OUT WHILE DRIVING TO WORK. HAVE REPLACED THE ECM COMPUTER AND CRANK POS SENSOR. PROBLEM STILL CONTINUES EVERY 3 TO 5 DAYS TRUCK CUTS OUT. OTHERWISE TRUCK RUNS GREAT
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-rfAd0YLg0
Jun 29, 2014 - Uploaded by AJ Pierce
In this video, I will show you how I fixed my 1992 Dodge Dakotanot starting. ... Engine cranks but won't start - Duration: 18:30. jimthecarguy ...
Engine Will Not Start Due to Blown Door Lock Fuse on Dodge Dakota ... cap and rotor, wires, plugs, coil, fuel pump assy, coil pickup sensor, crank position sensor and have new ECM on the way, Cranks but won't fire. ... 1990 Dodge Dakota.
Jan 22, 2009 - have a 1993 dodge dakota sport that wont start. when you turn the key on there is no power to the fuel pump and does not fire. any ideas ... I just bought a1990 Dodge Dakota Sport 4x4 5-Speed, there is only one problem, it only .... I went to move it the other day, it would turn over, but had no spark or gas.
Have you checked the wiring that goes to both the Crank and Cam sensors? Most of the time the wires are close to a heat source (ie: exhaust manifold) and the plastic covering starts to melt causing the cooper on wires to make contact and thus making engine stop, you will have to take off the protective covering as well as tape around the wires and inspect each and every one. Had same problem with Dodge caravan, it turns out the Crank Sensor plug wires were melted together. Good Luck.
DTC P2089 A - Camshaft Pos Actuator Ctrl Circ Hi Bank1 On this code the cam or crank sensor is normally the culprit. I would replace the crankshaft position sensor. There is anothe possible sensor that can cause this to happen vehicle speed sensor and engine coolant temp sensor. The way it works is The ECM receives signals such as crankshaft position, camshaft position, engine speed, and engine coolant temperature. Then, the ECM sends ON/OFF pulse duty signals to the intake valve timing control solenoid valve depending on driving status. This makes it possible to control the shut/open timing of the intake valve to increase engine torque in low/mid speed range and output in high-speed range. But the most common problem is the cam or crank sensor Start with the crankshaft sensor and then camshaft sensor.
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Sounds very much like catalytic is fouled, blocked.. Works fine when cold, then bogs down and even stalls when heats up. May start and idle but wont go when you press gas.
Did this come on worse over a couple three days? I would get the cat checked for flow.
How about the pick up coil in the distributor? A trick we used to use back in the day was to tap the distributor housing with a hammer, key word tap. If the engine missed or stalled than the pick-up coil was replaced.
I,ts a 3.9
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