02 dodge 2500 clutch not releasing

Need to remember that air rises. When replacing slave cylinder first hook everything up and bleed using the nut on the connecting line at the slave, then slowly depress and release pedal making sure to keep plenty of fluid in the reservoir, then after sitting a bit, tap on slave cylinder, line from bottom all the way up to the master, then loosen the nut connecting the line to the master and allow any air there to escape. Repeat whole process if needed.

Bleeding any Dodge clutch hydraulics are very difficult & almost impossible. The best solution is to buy the whole assembly (master,line,slave) from the dealer. Its pre-bleed & all together. So don't separate or open system!!!! just install & go. Also do not remove plastic piece that holds the pin in at the slave.There is a reason(manufacturer) does all of this. It might seem expensive but the time you spend trying to bleed & or replace parts to fix it, will pay off.

Did you bleed the clutch hydraulic system after you replaced the parts? It requires bleeding just like the brake system does.

what you mean is the clutch is not disengaging the transmission from the engine, so you can shift it.

This is always due to air trapeed in the clutch system. It is very hard to purge the air.

You may have to have a shop use their evac/fill equipment, if they have it.

Try raising the front of the truck as high as you can, including facing uphill. The air is likely trapped at the slave cylinder, not at the clutch.

There is a video on you tube showing a guy purging air from a Ranger. See if you can view it.

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

your clutch is hydraulic and no adjustment is possible. If the clutch is not releasing, the likely cause is a leak in the slave cylinder that might have caused the reservoir to dry up and allow air into the master cylinder. Check the reservoir and, if dry, check the system for leaks. Repair any leaks and bleed the system of air. If you have more questions, please let me know

you need to bleed it just like brakes.fill the reservoir for clutch with brake fluid and open the bleed on slave cylinder and just let it drip dont touch the clutch pedal.keep eye on reservoir and add some when it goes down DONT RUN IT DRY! about 10 minutes of this should do. close bleeder screw and try it it should work. if not then recheck your installation

raise and support vechicle safely.remove slave cylinder.hold slave cylinder at a 45 degree angle.with bleeder screw at it highest point.have a helper fully depress hold clutch pedal.then open the bleeder screw. then close the bleeder screw.and have helper release the clutch pedal repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system.keep check on on master cylinder keep fluid level full.to keep air from being drawn through the master cylinder.never release a depress clutch pedal with bleeder screw open.or air will enter the system.

Should be a bleeder on the slave cylinder. remove the cover on the master and open the slave and let drip until fluid drops sdteady and no sign of air. Close slave and close master after replenishing the fluid. The first time you press on the pedal go slow and release real slow. Then you are off and clutching. Good Luck

Was the clutch replaced?
Have you verified release travel?
open slave cylyder andv remove clutch fluid master cykider cover. permit gravity bleed untill fluid constantly drips, then close and refill. No pedal pump needed. let gravity bleed.

Sounds like you may have some air in the clutch..Try and bleed the clutch a few times and see if that helps the problem..Hope this helps you and have great night....

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