How should I set my torque wrench when I'm torquing three times like you're supposed to on a Chevy Tahoe 2004 model 4.8 L

https://www.355nation.net/threads/front-suspension-torque-specs.117041/

and

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Chevy+Tahoe,+Front+suspension+torque+specs

..

Torque should be about 30-40 ft lbs. This is essentially tight by hand, no torque wrench is often used. See this how to video: Sorry the video wouldn't upload. But the shop (A1 Auto) tightened by hand and for me that's 30-40 ft lbs with open end wrenches.

The rocker arms need to be adjusted, they are not set to a specific torque, they use self locking "crimp" nuts to hold the adjustment, these nuts should not be used over to hold the adjustment replace them.. With the lifters fully "pumped" up tighten the rocker arms to "zero" lash, the turn them in an additional 3/4 turn, you are done.

Its 105 inch pounds. Tighten the bolts in several steps. when done, check for oil leakage. But.....At this point, its a 2004. You dont need a torque wrench. Its pretty easy to feel it. Obviously dont grind em in after they get tight but once theyre hand tight, go in your order, (middle to out if thats what you like) and tighten them a little further each time. Get it to where if you put anymore pressure its going to go too deep. You can do it without a torque wrench on these. You'll know, but again, just dont go crazy. I never use torque wrenches anymore except for head bolts or something that important. I've been a mechanic for lot of years. Kind of grew up with cars though. I never have ANY issues with any bolts or anything not torqued enough or over tightened. (I have went too far into aluminum on a saab one time but that was one water pump bolt, did the rest a little lighter and it never leaked) But last time, I am positive you can do these valve cover bolts, on a 2.7 at that, without any torque wrench whatsoever. I didn't think anybody used them on valve covers anymore unless the car is like, new or something. You will be fine. But, If you're not comfortable, I get it. Go ahead and break out the small torque wrench and do em at 105 inch pounds. Can you even get a torque wrench on the back set of bolts on that back one? Anyway, good luck and I'm willing to bet that you tighten them a little further than 105 when you see how loose 105 is, maybe not. But, you might not be comfortable with only 105"lbs. Good luck, and you got this!

These days you can find a video for everything on youtube . I will say you will have to have a shop/garage to do this in so you don't get any dust dirt inside your motor . Many people underestimate how the smallest amount of dirt can cause serious damage to the inside on a motor . Make sure and get correct torque settings and that you use a good torque wrench with smooth slow pulls to tighten correctly .

Here's a handy link to the wheel nut torque settings for hundreds of different vehicles.
Look your's up........and away you go!
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/infoCenter/infoWheelTorque.html

Factory spec is 60lbs, but I usually go around 70lbs. I usually add 10lbs for safety. Thanks (please rate)

36mm most likely

1. Tighten the cylinder head bolts sequentially in three steps. NOTE: Perform each step twice. 1st step torque: 39 Nm (4.0 kgf-m, 29 ft. lbs.) 2nd step torque: 69 Nm (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft. lbs.) 3rd step torque: 98.1 Nm (10.0 kgf-m, 72.3 ft. lbs.) Use a beam-type torque wrench. When using a preset-type torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and not to overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt, and retighten it from the first step.