How do I get the emergency brake cable off my caliper on my G6? Changing the caliper assy.

lube cable and links --also possible damaged or weak spring

when replacing the brakes you usually dont bleed the system ---usually bleed system when air gets in from like changing a line master cylinder or caliper-- and or master is empty .but to bleed you start at passenger rear first than drivers side rear,up to passenger side front ending at drivers side front

No, you do not have to remove the emergency break cable unless you are changing the emergency break pads. The caliper acts independent of the emergency break.

The cables usually use a groove and hook system where the Emergency brake cables slide into the hook of the fixture on the Caliper. The assembly must be turned almost 90 degrees to slip the fixture into and out of the channel.

Press the parking brake lever with slip-joint pliers to relieve the tension on the brake cable. Grip the cable's end with locking pliers and disconnect it from the parking brake lever

Over here we call it a parking brake - hardly any of our cars are autos.

Parking brakes usually connect to the rear disc brake calipers but some manufacturers use a small drum brake in the disc centre for parking purposes due to the complexity of the caliper with integral parking brake.

When adjusting a parking brake it is important in most designs for the cable to be adjusted only to remove any free play without moving the caliper levers from the backstops and then if the parking brake lever or pedal travel is excessive it must be because of wear or other faults. Sometimes that basic requirement must be taken with a pinch or two of "experienced" salt...

Ford have a self adjusting parking brake I have experience of. A spring within the system preloads the cable eliminating all slack in the cable so the cable moves the caliper levers from the first. The main problem with the system is the preload spring is sometimes strong enough to overcome the resistance of the caliper spring and cause a binding brake. No manual adjustment was provided.
In that case I find fabricating and fitting brackets to anchor additional return springs to the calipers is a must.

Realize all that is holding them on after you take off caliper slider assembly, is rust & possibly rear emergency brake shoes, inside drum inside rotor. I always engage emergency brake 1 to 2 clicks then ride around the block. That gets rid of rust & ridge on drum. Release emergency brake.Jack up truck, remove tire. Spray around center of rear hub, near studs also, with a good penetrating oil. Then remove 2 retaining bolts that hold rear caliper slider to rear spindle, & remove slider assy & caliper. Now take good sledge hammer & whack center & outside of rotor. Sometimes it takes a bunch of good hits, then they come off.

Your brake caliper on this tire is likely bad, but it could also be a problem with the emergency brake cable hanging up on this wheel.

Were you using the emergency brake before the problem happened? If so, I'd maybe look more at the cable.

Are you sure it is the emergency brakes?Or is it a caliper stuck,because it is bad,or the caliper brake hose is stopped up?Jack the wheels up,one at a time,and try to see if they will turn by hand.This will tell you if it is front,or rear.If it is the emergency brake,then the cable from the front,to the bake,is most likely the problem,it is rusted ,and frayed,and stuck,you will have to disconnect it at the rear,from the brakes.If this helps,let us know,If it is the calipers,in the front,the wheels will not turn by hand.Brake loose the caliper bleed screw,and if the caliper turns the wheel loose,then the brake hose is bad,if it does not ,then the caliper is bad on that wheel.

if the pistonhas 2 notches cut into it 180 degrees apart then the piston screws back.
the "spring like thing" is just that, a spring that helps the brake to release when the emergency brake is used.