What is the part # for the motor on the front driver side window, of a 2007 Saab 9-3?

SOURCE: repalce front driver power window motor - 1993 cutlass ciera

Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.

SOURCE: No heat on the drivers side

Hi,

I have the same problem with my 1999 Saab 95 SE. I have done some intensive research on the repair and I have come across a few websites with solutions and they ultimately point to the same one. Your HeaterBox blend door or stop arm is broken it diverts the heat to both sides of the compartment. I had a quick free fix from my dealer from them by setting my temp to HI on both sides. But that did not fix the original problem of having cold air blow on the drivers side no matter which selection your choose to have the air blow, may it be on the windshield, panel or floor, it still came out cold. It is fine on the passengers side, but the tech at the Saab dealership instructed me not to adjust the temperature settings on either side or it might break completely, I think their just trying to tack on $2000 dollars of repairs for something I can fix for $100-$200 or even less than that. You should be able to get the job done in 2-3 hours providing nothing else is broken besides the blend door arm and/or stop arm in your heaterbox. Here is the link I found that will help you fix the problem. Hope it helps and keeps you warm, just be glad you have heated seats for now, without it I think I'd freeze to death in this Michigan weather, lol.

Illustrated Fix


Good Luck and Best Regards,

Gandy Kachucha

SOURCE: electric window motors

They should be the Same Motors.

SOURCE: Saab 9-3 2.0T Aero 2004 Left Passenger Window

We know the window regulator is good, including the motor and track. The fact that you hear a noise when depressing the driver side switch tells me that there is an open wire (ground side). It could be the the switch on drivers door or the wiring in that circuit. I would ride down an extremely rough stretch of road with my finger holding down the passenger window switch on the drivers side. If it inches down then your open will be a high open where the wire will only be barely seperated. If not the seperation will be a true open. It is usually fairly easy to swap a window switch, just to be sure the open is not in the switch. Hope this helps........Tennis123

SOURCE: Drivers door wont unlock saab 9-3

Did you solve your problem?