My front differential is leaking!

If it is the cv joint it would pop in turns the cv is the shaft from the transmission to the center of the wheel it has like 5 bolts on the trans side one big nut in the center of the wheel

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
4. Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
5. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
6. Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.

Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.

1. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.

Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.

1. Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
2. Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
3. Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.

Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.

1. Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.

Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.

1. Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.

Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.

1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.

1. Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.

A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.

1. Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
2. Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
3. Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.

A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.

1. Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.

A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.

1. Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
2. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
3. Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).

Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.

1. Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
2. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
3. Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.

Hi Thomas, I have not changed CV's on your type of vehicle, but can give you the path to follow. Here we go; Always work with someone to assist you. pepare four plastic bags for use later. With both front wheels on the ground remove any wheel covers fitted. In the center of the wheel you will see the shafts of the CV's. These are held in position with large nuts, either locked with a tab or sometimes with a locking washer and split pin. Unlock whichever system is used and loosen the nuts on the shafts. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the vehicle and place chassis stands to support the vehicle and the lower it onto the stands. Remove the wheels and remove the center nuts from the CV joints. If the vehicle is fitted with McPherson struts, loosen the two through bolts and nuts, or if fitted with wishbone suspension loosen and remove the bolts securing the the upper ball joints. Swing the stub axle outward and downwards so that there is enough room to remove the CV shafts from from the hubs. Put on a pair of goggles and then climb under the vehicle and release the boots or retaining bolts holding the shaft into the spyder or inner CV joint. Once removed pull the half shaft out of the housings keeping everything as clean as possible and wrap in a plastic bag.. (There will be high impact grease inside both the inner and outer joints, This may have been thrown out in the event that the rubber boots are broken) If you are replacing the entire half shafts, carefully observe the way in which the inner joint is fitted. If there are no bolts, studs or nuts holding a flange onto the gear box differential housing, the inner joints will be held in place by spring loaded clips fitted around the ends of the inner shafts. If your vehicle uses that type of fitting the shafts will be levered out. It will be important to use a catchment tray to collect any transmission oil which leaks out. Cover the joint with one of the plastic bags. If you are fitting only the outer CV's, the defective units are knocked off the shafts with a heavy copper mallet (The shafts also have locking cur clips holding the shafts in place. Sometimes the inner basket of the CV bearing housing will need to be cut or broken out, so the the joint can be removed. Please both you and your friend use safety goggles during this procedure. Once removed, fit the new joint. If you are replacing the entire assembly and if they are the type using clips, use a thick piece of wood and hold the shaft as straight as possible then ask your pal to knock the shaft into the housing. The rest of the job is the opposite to removal. When fitting the outer CV shaft nut follow the correct tightening torque setting, as these usually hold the front wheel bearings at the correct settings and tightness. Regards John

CV halfshaft will run you $75 at local autoparts store. Shop labor varies from shop to shop as well as their expertise.
The brake caliper has to be pulled, lower shock bolt removed, upper and lower ball joint seperated (book will say only one but it is not true) and steering knuckle and axle nut removed. CV joint simply unbolts at differential output flange.

A c/v joint is pretty much just a better universal joint in that it permits more flex range than a simple cross. (like a driveshaft universal) If it were possible to make a universal with eight caps instead of four, it would have similar range but would be impossible to install.
Few suv's used in street applications have a true locking front differential as that makes steering very difficult on turns (outer wheel needs to turn faster than one on inside of turn as the outside "circle" is larger.) Most suv's have an "open" differential that permits easy turning. In reality most 4x4's only have two wheels driving the vehicle at any one time. Most optional setups have a positraction diff ( also known as a limited slip as it allows for slippage so wheels can change speed on turns)at the rear giving you a total of three wheels pushing. Off-road guys will often install a posi at the front, or a more radical approach is a "spool" that is 100% locked all the time, making street driving nearly impossible. Your front differential is "locked" or actually connected to the drivetrain by way of a transfer case that does exactly that...It transfers power to the differentials. On some it does this automatically by way of a viscous coupler inside the unit, or others that are engaged by the driver by either an electric servo or a direct lever.
How far you turn the front wheels determines how much stress you are putting on the c/v joint. Most vehicles have a "stop" bolt somewhere on the suspension that stops the front end from turning further than it should. Most times the steering pump will begin to whine as you near the limit.
C/v joints should last a very long time. Generally they fail because though they are internally designed very well, they are protected by a simple rubber boot. Once that boot is torn, split or otherwise compromised, road dirt enters and quickly destroys the joint.
Once you find a split boot you can almost bet that the joint is in one stage or another of failure. The price of the boot is often about one third the price of a complete joint or even a replacement axle with joints installed. therefore changing just the boot is foolish.
Symptoms of a bad joint are clicking binding or vibration from the area of the joint, but, sometimes vibration can be caused by wheel balance or a failed hub bearing. Making good diagnosis important.

no, here's the procedure for 2002 windstar, should be similar. please rate, thanks.

NOTE: This procedure applies to both the LH and RH halfshaft assemblies.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while removing the front axle wheel end nut.

1. CAUTION: The front axle wheel end nut is a torque prevailing design nut. Do not reuse it.
   Remove the nut and washer.
   • Remove the steel rod in the brake disc.

1. WARNING: Remove or tape the brake pads to prevent them from falling out of the anchor plate.
   CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
   Remove the bolts and position the disc brake caliper aside.

1. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor harness from the clip.

1. Remove and discard the nut and bolt.
   • If necessary, use a punch and a hammer to drive the bolt out of the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Position the end of the pry bar outside the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
   CAUTION: Do not damage the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
   Separate the front suspension lower arm from the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Never use a hammer to separate the front wheel driveshaft joint (3B413) from the wheel hub. Damage to the joint threads and internal components can result.
   Using the special tool, press on the front wheel driveshaft joint until it is loose in the wheel hub.

1. Rotate the front wheel knuckle rearward, while pulling it outward at the bottom and remove the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub.

1. Using a pry bar, separate the inboard CV joint housing assembly (3B436) (3B437) from the transaxle.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the differential seal.
   Remove the halfshaft assembly with both hands.

Installation

1. Lubricate the differential seal.
   • Use MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-5-QM or equivalent meeting MERCON® V specifications.

1. CAUTION: Install a new circlip every time you remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
   On the RH side halfshaft only, install a new circlip in the groove in the inboard CV joint stub shaft.
   • Start one end in the groove and work the circlip over the shaft and into the groove. This will prevent the circlip from over-expanding.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inboard CV joint housing assembly and the differential seal.
   NOTE: If necessary, use a non-metallic mallet to aid in seating the circlip in the differential side gear groove (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH). Tap only on the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint.
   Align the inboard CV joint housing splines with the differential side gear splines (RH) or output shaft splines (LH), and push the inboard CV joint housing assembly inward until the circlip seats in the differential side gear (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH).

1. Align the front wheel driveshaft joint splines and the wheel hub splines, and push the joint into the wheel hub as far as possible.

1. Install the washer and the old nut. Using the old nut, seat the front wheel driveshaft joint in the hub. Remove the old nut and discard it.

1. Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Install a new bolt and nut.
   Install the new bolt and nut.

1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while installing the new front axle wheel end nut.

1. Apply a small patch of Loctite 242 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 to the last five front wheel driveshaft joint threads.

1. CAUTION: Install and tighten the new front axle wheel end nut to specification in a continuous rotation. Stopping the rotation during installation will cause the nylon lock to set incorrectly. This will cause incorrect torque readings while tightening the nut, and lead to bearing failure. Always install a new front axle wheel end nut after loosening the nut, or when the nut has not been installed to specification in a continuous rotation.
   Install and tighten the new nut to specification in a continuous rotation.
   • Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.

1. Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.

1. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor harness in the clip.

1. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Lower the vehicle.

1. Check and, if necessary, fill the transaxle to the correct level with the specified fluid. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 .

Check the axle boot. When they rip or crack they will sling grease around.

it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
   

1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
   

1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.
   
   
   
   
   

1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.
   
   Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
   

1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
   

1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
   

1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
   

1. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
   Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
   
   
   
   
   

1. CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
   If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
   

1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).
   

Remove tire, remove axle nut, pop ball joint off, remove clip, pull axle

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