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When replacing parking brake on an Acura 2006 when tighting the screws the wheel will not spin

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Rene Rossouw

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SOURCE: just replaced rear brake shoes--parking brake

The brake shoes need adjusting. Disengage the parking brake.
Before fitting new shoes you should slack off the parking brake cable completely. Locate the adjuster(just follow the parking brake cable. Undo the locknut and slack off the cable.
Remove the rear wheels and drums again. You will find a screw-in type adjuster between the shoes. Turn the adjuster to increase the distance between the shoes. The left and right wheel's adjusters turn in opposite directions to achieve the same result. Fit the drum to see if it slides over the pads easily. Do so until you start having diffyculty sliding the drum over the shoes. Fit the drum and rotate it. You should not hear any scraping or have any resistance on the drum when it is rotated. Refit the wheels. Test the parking brake. If it is still too slack adjust the cable under the car until you when you engage the parking brake it engages fully after 3-5 clicks.

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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Azrael SRL

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SOURCE: 2006 Dodge Grd Caravan 3.3L Just

No, no lock of any kind in the brake system. Most likely the fault is in the transmission. Simple tests to confirm that: secure the back wheels and lift the front ones,
1 - put the contact without starting the engine, rotate one wheel, then apply the brake - if the brakes work normally the wheel should turn easily the moment you release the brakes.
2 - put the lever in Neutral and ask a friend to help you in rotating both wheels at the same time - if you can't do that then the transmission is locked: either the Parking paw is still locking the output shaft or some clutches have failed. To confirm this is the cause
3 - put the lever back in park, press the breaks and start the motor then shift into Drive and release the brakes (don't touch the accelerator pedal): the wheels should normally start spinning; to confirm that the brakes have been released and it's not their fault just go out of the truck and (gently and carefully, spin one wheel - it the transmission is locked the other wheel will spin in the opposite direction.

Posted on Aug 26, 2011

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2 Answers

Front breaks lock up,while driving,park for a few minutes,breaks are fine


Could be that the callipers are jamming or the wheel is running tight. Check for wheel spin with the front wheels off the ground, they should spin with minimum effort. Could also be something wrong with the master cylinder. It may not be releasing properly and slowly building pressure to lock the brakes. After sitting for a while, it returns to normal position and releases the brakes. Mt Ford had a dud wheel bearing which would intermittently start to seize. When this happened, the anti lock braking system thought that the wheel was about to lock and would throw the brakes on and off without warning... Check your wheel bearings too.

Apr 13, 2015 | 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche LTZ

1 Answer

Steering wheel wobbles and tires seem to wobble as well


Jack it up at each wheel, spin the wheel, watch it to see if it is out of round, if there might be a bubble in the tire anywhere, (cords break inside the tire), or if the rim is bent. Use chalk as it spins to locate slight flaws. Compare wheel to tire while spinning. Check to see if the wheel is loose either at the hub, axle or lug nuts. Make sure your A frame or tie rods are not coming loose. Use pry bars to see if everything is tight. If your wobble is only when braking it is probably a un-evenly worn brake rotor. Always chock (block) your wheels and apply emergency brake while jacking up a car. Take your time and be safe. Do not get distracted if you are running a jacked up car. Apply brake before moving shifter back to park to stop spinning wheel.

Feb 12, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Removed lugnuts but a tire will not come off the vehicle . The parking break is off, but the rear wheel will not spin. I turned the ignition on and the parking break light was not on. I lifted the parking...


rear wheels on saturn's I believe have drum brakes - these can tend to seize up when worn through and the brake shoe rivets start to cut into the wheel housing or if not worn out, just be tight enough to keep wheel from spinning freely. Also the light on parking brake is a simple switch attached to the lever and is not reliable. I've had parking brake cables rust up and seize which can be a pain - generally requires a replacement cable and often the connecting yoke and rods.

As for the wheel not coming off - that's unrelated to the brakes - the brakes act on the actual wheel hub to which the lugs attach the wheel and tire. Many times it is problem of rust and dirt caked up between the wheel and the hub. I'd suggest rapping the wheel with a hammer, go all around the perimeter several times on the back side - use a piece of wood between hammer and wheel to protect the wheel from getting dented - the hammer "shocks" usually will vibrate thru the steel or alloy to loosen caked up dirt and rust. Can't think of much more you can do - maybe others have a suggestion. worst case might be to bring it to a tire shop and pay them $10-$20 to get it off - if it is just for inspection they can put it right back on for you. If you are looking to swap it out with another tire/wheel, then they will charge more since they often ding you for balancing it (which is a good idea regardless).

Jun 03, 2017 | 2008 Saturn Sky

1 Answer

Hit a curb and part of my rim is bent


Jack it up and spin the wheel, watch it to see if it is out of round, if there might be a bubble in the tire anywhere, (cords break inside the tire), or if the rim is bent. Use chalk as it spins to locate slight flaws. Compare wheel to tire while spinning. Check to see if the wheel is loose either at the hub, axle or lug nuts. Make sure your A frame or tie rods are not damaged. Use pry bars to see if everything is tight. Put a spare wheel on and see if it spins true and straight. If your wobble is only when braking it is probably a un-evenly worn brake rotor. Always chock (block) your wheels and apply emergency brake while jacking up a car. Take your time and be safe. Do not get distracted if you are running a jacked up car. Apply brake before moving shifter back to park to stop spinning wheel.

Nov 06, 2013 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am trying to replace the rear drivers side wheel bearing and hub assembly combined. I have having problems removing the hub assembly already on the car. What do i need to do to fix this problem


Remove offending wheel and set park brake extremely tight. Remove brake pads from caliper, and then unbolt caliper. Release the park brake. Unbolt the heater supply tube. Remove six 8mm hex bolts on the CV joint near the transmission. Remove axle. Remove four bolts on outside of housing that hold the 2 bearing race retainers. Reinstall new bearing into the housing... again this will require the EBS tool, and of course you'll have to rearrange the parts of the tool. Once the new bearing is installed, reinstall the bearing race retainers and the four screws that hold the retainers. Carefully reinstall the axle, making sure not to push the hub out of the bearing again.Reinstall six 8mm hex bolts holding the CV joint to the transmission. Reinstall rotor then set parking brake extremely tight.Reinstall brake caliper andl brake pads. Reinstall heater supply tube and wheel, torque wheel bolts to 96 ft-lbs, re-install transmission cover and suspension cover. Here you can find the quality parts http://www.carpartswarehouse.com/part/wheel-hub-bearing.html

Aug 29, 2011 | 1994 Saab 900

1 Answer

Just replaced rear brake shoes--parking brake feels like it is not tight enough when engagaed--


The brake shoes need adjusting. Disengage the parking brake.
Before fitting new shoes you should slack off the parking brake cable completely. Locate the adjuster(just follow the parking brake cable. Undo the locknut and slack off the cable.
Remove the rear wheels and drums again. You will find a screw-in type adjuster between the shoes. Turn the adjuster to increase the distance between the shoes. The left and right wheel's adjusters turn in opposite directions to achieve the same result. Fit the drum to see if it slides over the pads easily. Do so until you start having diffyculty sliding the drum over the shoes. Fit the drum and rotate it. You should not hear any scraping or have any resistance on the drum when it is rotated. Refit the wheels. Test the parking brake. If it is still too slack adjust the cable under the car until you when you engage the parking brake it engages fully after 3-5 clicks.

Aug 05, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Previa

1 Answer

2006 Pacifica emergency brake problem.


The only manual adjustment for the parking brake on these is at the shoes themselves. Procedure for that is as follows:

1) Place parking brake lever in "full released" position.
2) Raise and support vehicle.
3) Remove plug in parking brake shoe support to access adjuster star-wheel.
NOTE: Through the access hole, rotate the adjuster wheel in the following direction to expand the shoes outward against the drum.
Left brake--Rotate star wheel toward rear of vehicle.
Right brake--Rotate star wheel toward front of vehicle.
4)Using an appropriate tool, turn adjuster star wheel until wheel will not rotate (dead lock).
5) Back off adjuster six detents (teeth).
6) Rotate wheel, checking for light drag. If drag is too heavy, continue to back of adjuster one detent at a time until light drag is present. Do not back off star-wheel more than 17 detents from wheel lock.
7) Install access plug.
8) Adjust opposite wheel parking brake shoes using same method.
9) Lower Vehicle.
10) Apply and release parking brake lever once to ensure proper operation of parking brakes.

These directions are directly from 2006 Pacifica factory service manual. If you have any other problems feel free to ask. v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} Normal 0 false false false /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;}
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Mar 07, 2010 | 2006 Chrysler Pacifica

3 Answers

Driving with parking brake on


More likely than not you wore the parking brake pads down. The parking brake pads are seperate from the rear disc brakes. They are a drum style. The rear rotars are designed to work as both drum and disc.
I would say in 20 miles you did little no no damage to drivetrain.
Typically when you get a brake job they will adjust the parking brake shoes. It is extremly easy if you have already gone and removed the brake calipers. Essentially you pull off the rotor (you would need a tool for this called a puller. not expensive, maybe $10. Something somone doing your brakes would have. Once the rotars are off you just turn a star gear.
This might add $15-20 to a standard brake job. Maybe $50 if the shoes need to be replaced.

Apr 30, 2009 | 2001 Subaru Forester

1 Answer

I need a schematic for the rear brakes on an F150 super cab with 4.6L automatic trans 4wheel drive


Drum, Rear Brake System Standard Rear Brake
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Item Part Number Description 1 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin 2 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd) 3 — Washer (2 Req'd) 4 — Anchor Pin (Part of 2211) 5 — Wheel Cylinder 6 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Short) 9 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Long) 10 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Secondary) 11 — Washer 12 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 13 — Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 14 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 15 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 16 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 17 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 18 2048 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket 19 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 20 2041 Brake Adjusting Screw 21 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 22 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Primary) 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2211 Brake Backing Plate
Heavy Duty Rear Brake
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Item Part Number Description 1 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt 2 00538 Lock Nut 3 2212 Rear Brake Backing Plate 4 2262 Rear Wheel Cylinder 5 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 6 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 9 — Parking Brake Lever Bolt 10 — Secondary Shoe Assembly 11 2A179 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 12 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 13 — Adjusting Lever Pin 14 — Adjusting Lever Return Spring 15 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 16 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 17 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 18 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw 19 — Primary Shoe Assembly 20 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 21 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining 22 2035 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2092 Brake Adjusting Hole Cover 25 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
The rear drum brakes:
  • Have internal shoes that expand against the brake drum (1126).
  • Are a single-anchor type.
  • Are actuated by one rear wheel cylinder (2262).
  • Have two pistons in the rear wheel cylinder (2261). One exerts force against the upper end of the primary shoe; the other exerts force against the upper end of the secondary shoe.
  • Adjust rear brake shoes and linings (2200) automatically.
  • Need manual brake adjustment if the adjusters are not operating properly or after the rear brake shoes and linings have been replaced.
When the brake pedal is applied, hydraulic fluid pressure forces the pistons in the rear wheel cylinder outward, moving the rear brake shoes and linings against the brake drum.
The rear drum brake system includes the parking brake mechanism. Refer to Section 206-05 .

Apr 04, 2009 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

How to adjust the parking brake on a 2006 GMC savana, 3500?


there is an adjustment bolt just in front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side. Look for where one cable splits into two cables.



Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission.
You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle???
Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.

Mar 02, 2009 | 2006 GMC Savana

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