On third compressor. Had the temperature sensor

There are 2-3 sensors that will trigger your electric fan comming on, 1 is usually near thermostats, 1 usually near bottom or on side of radiator, third is on your ac compressor. With car running turn on ac fan should kick on if it does ac sensor is good. Then it will be one of your other 2 sensors

Sounds like a couple of problems. First the radiator fan not working. Check to see if the non working fan is getting any voltage. If it is, then strike the fan motor with a hammer and see if it will come on. If it does then the fan motor should be replaced. If it not getting voltage then there could be a problem with a relay or temperature sensor. Some systems have a duel temp control that will kick the secondary fan on under high temperatures. Noise in the compressor could mean that it is coming apart inside .

A/c compressor works fine and the blower motor works and shutdown right? it is the problem with the blower resistor or with blower motor relay. try to direct the resistor irrespective of the speed. hope the problem may be solved.

On some Camrys the radiator fan is run by hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump. I think the sensor you mention is the engine coolant temperature sensor, which is in the circuit which operates the fan when the engine becomes hot. If this fails the engine will overheat, yes. The fan does not cool the hydraulic fluid from the pump.

If your power steering fluid gets low the same thing can happen, but you would notice immediately as the steering would become intermittently harder.

most likly you have a leak, take it to a shop and have it tested if the system had die in it then you can use a UV light to see the leaks they will glow a neon green color. the reson you compressor wont come on is a safty on the system. the pressure goes down and trips the switch turning the systme off. saving you alot of extra money in parts.

Hi, I assume you have checked your coolant level and that the coolant is good. (not rusty looking, or clear and check specific gravity) Your fan is controlled by the temperature sensor. It sends a signal to the PCM which activates a relay which transfers power to the fan. Temp. sensor usually located on the thermostat housing area or filler neck tube. (if I knew your engine size I could help you find it) You can test it with a multimeter set to OHMs. Start up the motor, and with wire clip unplugged, hold test leads one on each of the 2 terminals on the sensor. The resistance reading will increase as the engine temperature increases. (being with a cool engine for better, more noticeable readings) If the values do not change significantly with a steady rise, most likely sensor is bad. If you can see the fan kick on, but intermittenly, check the fan relay. You can swap it for another of the same type/ number for a quick check. The engine will have to attain and begin to exceed operating temperature for the relay to be engaged and fan to kick on. If it overheats and fan never kicks on, could be a bad fan motor. Applying direct voltage to the motor via the wiring clip (12v to the fan itself + ground if not present) should make it run mechanically.
A/C not cooling can be several things, low charge, bad relay, bad compressor, plugged orifice, cooling fan not reaching top speed, etc. Check the system pressure first. Let me know what you find and if you need further assistance. Thanks, Mike

Check your coolant levels. If the temperature isn't much higher than normal, you may be fine, or you may have a Coolant Temperature Sensor going bad, and reporting the incorrect temperature. Even though the thermostat was replaced 8 months ago, it is possible it is already going bad again. I believe this is more of a Coolant Temp. Sensor fault though. The cooling fans are On when the AC is on. With the AC off, the cooling fans come on when the engine reaches a certain temperature, and cut off once the temperature is back in range. The Coolant Temperature sensor shouldn't cost much, and is easy to replace. I would start with that, top it off with coolant, and then maybe change the thermostat.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

I had a similar problem. Is your temperature gauge pegged to the right as very hot? Or reads always cold, even when hot. If it is a 3100 motor their is a coolant temperature gauge sending unit under the air breather intake that is right next to where you replace the thermostat.

Get a haynes repair manual at a parts dealer, Amazon, or your public library.
On the Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo, & Impala FWD 1995 to 2005 it's under section 3-8 on page 3-6. It goes into great detail, and it's too complicated to explain here. If your sensor is bad, but the wires and fuses are good then the fans won't run.

Your second fan only runs when the air compressor is turning, If your ac compressor is not running then the sensor will not have the passenger fan run.
You have to see if the fan motors are good and then the wiring is good, and no fuses blown. You might blow fuses so have extra blue ones if I remember right. Recheck fuses after testing.

I suggest you have no need to worry about this. The conditions may not be right for the fan to "after run"

almost certainly the thermostat.....