1988 FORD COURIER UTE my brakes are playing up once i have bleed my brakes my pedal is hard then you leave it for a few seconds and its soft again wat else could be wrong with it

Try to find where the air is entering the clutch line. When you bleed the cylinder you cannot drain the reservoir completely when bleeding. If you do then you'll only pump more air into the system.

to test your brake assist is working. stop the motor. Press w few times the brakes, till the pedal feels sturdy. Then while pressing the pedal down firmly, start the engine. When you feel the pedal going down, like feeling "soft" you know the brake assist works. If nothing changes it is defect.

Nothing. But you need to have the ABS bleed with a special tool is so equipped.

You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive.
Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.

If the truck has RABS, the ABS system needs to be bled.

1988 chevy r 3500 1 ton changed out driver front brake caliper
brakes are soft peddle goes to the floor tried to bleed but no brake fluid will come please help

Bleeding (to fix soft-pedal) the brakes only takes the trapped air out of the system. Excessive pedal movement is fixed by adjusting the brake shoes (drum type brakes) out further. Many vehicles will self-adjust the shoes by stepping repeatedly on the pedal while moving in reverse. Disk brakes self-adjust after the first application of the brakes (be sure to recheck fluid level in the master cylinder). Hope that helps.

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

sounds like there is a leak in the system or you need to bleed your brakes. I'd get it checked by mechanic.

the master cyl must be filled and bled before install.after installing new bled master cyl,bleed all calipers.once you are sure there is no air left in system then you will need a scan tool to perform a abs service bleed.if you do perform the abs service bleed with a scan tool the brake pedal will be soft and start to fade.