Question about 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: P1211 DTC
Loss of power, usually after a hard acceleration; Rough idle; Check engine light comes on, DTC P1211:
Intermittent high pressure oil leakage.
This condition usually occurs when the vehicle is cold and the oil is thick. When performing a hard acceleration, the truck suddenly looses power, the check engine light comes on, and once returning to idle the engine runs rough and won't accelerate. Cycling the key may correct the concern, clearing the code from the PCM will correct it temporarily. If you can monitor data stream, at idle the ICP pressure normally is 400-700 PSI and the IPR duty cycle is 9-14%; at cruise, ICP is 700-1200 pSI and IPR is 15-20%; under normal acceleration, ICP is 1200-2000 PSI and IPR is 20-30%; and under WOT accel, the ICP is up to 3600 PSI and the IPR is 35% or higher. When the above symptom occurs, typically the idle ICP reading will be normal, but the IPR duty cycle will be high--over 20% and up to the max 50%. A "blow-by" condition has occured somewhere in the HP oil circuit. If you can get the problem to re-occur with some frequency, the most probable cause is worn or deteriorated injector or IPR o-rings. If the problem is intermittent, it could be a sticking IPR valve. Replace the injector o-rings with the latest-level kits--F8TZ-9229-AA. When replacing the IPR, make sure you get the correct part for the build date/serial number of your engine.
Posted on Jun 04, 2008
Like to other guy said, give it a tuneup. Also try SEAFOAM to clean carb up of slug. Also check to make sure the butter fly for the choke has not come loose, causing it the choke it down. Failed choke pull-off.
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
i had the same trouble, there is a rubber boot under the cover on the top of the motor, it is coming from the egr valve, takes about 5 mins to repair and less than 5 dollars.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
I have wondered why this happens many times in the past. You would think the marks should line up using #1 cylinder but they don't.
It has been a while but I think if you hook up to #5 ignition wire the marks will come up for you.You will need to undo the "spout" connector before setting it to 10 degrees before top dead center. The spout is a two wire jumper clip that should break out of the harness at the distributor.
Warm the engine up for a while so it doesn't stall as easy while you set the timing.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
Testimonial: " Right on, timing it on #5 cylinder worked. I thought I probably had a bad damper but it appears o.k. "
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