It originally started with a check engine light. Short story, replace all the sensors, the exhaust system, the driver valve covers,l coils, sparks, etc. I even replaced a few of the rubber hoses, nothing. Seems like each process creates another problem. I can literally replace the entire system in a couple of hours given my eagerness. The err codes just seems to be all connected. Fix one thing and another appears. Now, I find oil inside the intake manifold and found a bad PCV. I replaced the but ill have the issue. This will be my last try to fix this. The car runs greats after I clean out the oil inside the manifold, and also clean the MAF, but after about 60 plus miles drive, my the Avg. MPG starts dropping from 20 mpg plus to less than 12MPG). This is driving me up a wall. Help, please.
Before you tear it all down do a compression test if any rings have failed will have a low compression in that cylinder and usually fouled plugs also check the oil seals on your valves especially the intakes
Testimonial: "I ordered a compression kit on eBay and should arrive soon. Been a bit busy so I haven't had the chance to do any car work since I cleaned it out. What I'm noting is that the Avg MPG gauge continues to rise and fall (between 11mpg and 18 mpg). This is driving me crazy. Planning on doing the test later in the week once I get the piece."
"I ordered a compression kit on eBay and should arrive soon. Been a bit busy so I haven't had the chance to do any car work since I cleaned it out. What I'm noting is that the Avg MPG gauge continues to rise and fall (between 11mpg and 18 mpg). This is driving me crazy. Planning on doing the test later in the week once I get the piece."
Well, I got the compression kit, and, as usual, finding it extremely difficult wasting time on this car when locating basic things. Do you have any idea where I can find the Fuel Pump fuse/relay? It's not listed in either the fuse box inside the battery casing nor the driver door fuse panel box unless it goes by another name. Help, please?
Pk, I completed the Compression Check and found one bad reading compared to the other six. Piston #1 was reading 125 psi, the rest were reading 150 psi (or 10.etc). Does that mean I have a bad seal or is there another way to check this? Thanks.
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Sounds like its building up compression in the sump due to worn rings and then need to push the air out somewhere which in your case is the intake and the oil u c is from the oil spill come thru the motor
Testimonial: "I'll take a look and see. I currently in the process of cleaning the entire manifold intake system and removing all the gunk. I have just remove the injectors to remove the intake to the cat off and have that cleaned too. Might as well continue below. I'll keep posting on the progress (if any). Thanks."
"I'll take a look and see. I currently in the process of cleaning the entire manifold intake system and removing all the gunk. I have just remove the injectors to remove the intake to the cat off and have that cleaned too. Might as well continue below. I'll keep posting on the progress (if any). Thanks."
Completed cleaning the manifold cover and intake manifold and all associated parts. Planning on removing the oil pan (as recommended by Zane, need to make a trip to get some oil. I'll post that progress later. However, I did not note any oil under or around the pan itself. Quick question, you mentioned "worn rings", is that the one behind the oil filter or somewhere else? Thanks.
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You have replaced the gasket
Testimonial: "Yes."
SOURCE: I need to remove the upper intake manifold from my
First off, you need to label all of the electrical and vacuum lines connecting to the intake manifold. This will make reassembly much easier. Then, there is a torque sequence to be used during disassembly and reassembly.
This image is of the TIGHTENING SEQUENCE. Reverse this to take the manifold off. This is important so that the upper intake manifold is not warped at all, which would decrease the quality of the seal. Be careful during disassembly and reassembly to avoid bending any lines or tubes. If things are in your way, disconnect them rather than pushing them to the side. This will avoid pinching inner linings which cannot be seen visually.
As for the gaskets, (as far as I am aware), Chrysler's (Dodge's) official stance on the manifold gaskets is that they are reusable. However, this is if they ALL look good under close inspection. Any tears, "melting", or other damage means the gaskets should all be replaced. They are not expensive, and I believe they all come as a set including both upper and lower gasket sets. Personally, I would recommend replacing them regardless. This would be a good preventative step to help extend the life of the vehicle. Also be sure to check the cooling line O-rings and replace them as necessary, following the criteria above.
Good luck and I hope this helps, even though I see it is a bit late.
SOURCE: lower intake manifold gasket leaking 02 Olds Silhouette
This is basicly a very time consuming job rather than a physically hard one to complete. In order to replace the gasket you must remove the intake plenum,throttle body, and misc. vacuum hoses. The wiring harness connections must also be disconnected. Finally the intake manifold is exposed. The bolts holding the manifold to the block are removed exposing the leaking gasket. After removing the push rods and placing them in the correct order to be replaced the gasket and sealants can be removed. Finally replace everything in reverse order. Be sure to consult a GM manual for correct bolt torch specs. The correct specs for the manifold bolts usually come with the gasket. Make sure to change your oil a few times after this job in case any coolant entered the block. Also,change the thermostat and the oil seal on the distributor half shaft cap while you have everything off. Good Luck
SOURCE: My 1999 chevy tahoe is leaking antifreeze. I
it could but- check passenger side front where heater core line go into manifold right behind alternator the hose line is connected by a press clip into an alloy fitting this fitting gets eaten away by anti freeze and hose angle pulls back on fitting the part is $18 at dealer and is screwed into manifold use caution if ur r going to replace at very edge of aluminum manifold---and check ur water pump bolts the 2 longer ones should have a lock sealant on them they bolt in thru a water jacket
SOURCE: 2004 Mazda MPV vacuum line from pcv valve and
You have the wrong type hose on the pcv valvle. It isn't vacuum hose.
Testimonial: "thank you you have been very helpful i understand now but the hose that is on the new pcv valve is a vacuum hose "
SOURCE: water leak under the intake manifold,1995 toyota 4 runner
There is a heater core bypass pipe that runs from the block (under the manifold) to the bacl of theengine where you will see a flat rectangular "sheet metal" thing with a pipe coming out of it. The a rubber hose connects. You need to pull the top air plenums and intake to get to it. The p[ipe flange bolts to the block with silicone rtv as a sealant.
Testimonial: "thanxs"
It's not difficult to replace PCV valve!810 views
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Yes, twice. Thanks.
I have opened the manifold cover again and found the lower manifold collector, inside the center cavity just next to the PCV hose connector started to build up some oil but it has not expanded past the gasket into the outside cavities (outside the gasket areas) like when I first noted it earlier. The first time, I had looked into the problem the oil was everywhere, I replaced the gasket at that time but it did not help. I then replaced the PCV valve and that did not solve the problem either. Not sure how the oil is getting and not burning up in there.
I cleaned up the entire system but it appears to have been a waste of time. My Average MPG continues to fall, now at 11.1 MPG. This is a catastrophy. I will be checking the oil sump but noted that aside from just replacing the pan, quite a lot of work will have tyo be done if the system is clogged. Also, I read that it could be a piston issue. I am not ready to do that amountof work given I only have this one vehicle for travel.
Hi there
What u saying about the piston problem is what im refering to the rings are on the pistons if u dont have hands on experience in stripping down a motor i suggest that i take it to a mechanic as this is not a easy task and requires experience
Thanks for the advice and help. No way will I ever allow a mech again to look at any of my cars. (This comes from over $750 wasted on both a Nissan & Infiniti tech. who couldn't solve a simple coding problem). Most are really pretty ignorant of doing any real professional analysis.
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