On 2001 Ford Focus warning chime sounds for no apparent reason while driving. At same time the Charging System warning light illuminates. Eventually sound stops and warning light turns off.

SOURCE: ford focus ignition warning light

hi with the engine running at idle .get a multimeter and check for a voltage of between 13.5 volts and 14.7 at the battery terminals lower than 13.5 or higher than 14.7 replace alternator.

SOURCE: 1995 Buick Park Ave. Brake light remains ON and chimes on driving

The problem is the car think the park brake is on (intermittently). I would check the park brake switch, perhaps it's loose, or perhaps the park brake is pushed down to the first "click" spot. Also check the wiring connection to the switch, and the wiring nearby. Good luck!

SOURCE: 2004 mercedes c240 alarm sounds for no apparent reason

Hi, You need to replace the alarm siren. It is also a module. It is located in the right front fender well. The reason they go bad is because they are located in a place where they get wet.

SOURCE: 1996 Ford Taurus Making a beeping sound

Mine beeps like that as well if I don't put my seat belt on. The seat belt light comes on for about a minute then shuts off and a few seconds later it starts beeping without any lights coming on. This may not be what your problem is but I was wondering why mine did the same thing and I figured out if I didn't have my seatbelt on that's when it would beep like that. The seat belt light had already shut off and wasn't blinking or anything so I didn't realize that's what it was right away.

Brandon Johnson

• 253 Answers
• Posted on Aug 13, 2009

SOURCE: 97 Subaru Impreza Outback Wagon Occasionally Will Not Start

Hello, I was a Subaru tech for a few years and I agree w/ the other tech about the bad starter. Subaru starters are known for this exact kind of behavior when they are close to the end of their life. Forgive me, but I have to assume that everyone I help knows nothing about cars. You sound like the kind of person that is not convinced until you know exactly what is happening, So here's the breakdown. What happens, is when the starter engages the internal motor causing it to rotate. the positive and negative points (Brushes) make physical contact w/ a cylindrical shaft w/ separated plates providing power and ground to the copper wire windings surrounded by permanent magnets. Considering the enormous drag/load on this system from the engines resistance to rotate due to each compression stroke, a very high peak Amperage is channeled only through those two little brush contacts. They continuously spark inside of the starter, eating away at the brush contacts until they eventually wear away causing them to ground out. What's most likely happening w/ your starter is that whenever you start the vehicle, occasionally, by chance or (kind of like a roulette table) the brush contacts land on one or more of these grounded out spots. Even when you try to start the vehicle and nothing happens, the starter is still being influenced by amperage is trying to turn past this dead spot only very very very very slowly. This is why after you try to start it a few times it will eventually start, especially when you let it sit your actually letting the starter cool down. The more you try to start the vehicle the more the starter will become useless. The easiest test we techs have come up w/ when we get a no start concern, is to go out to the vehicle w/ a 3ft long bar, have someone sit in the vehicle and try starting it. If the starter brush contacts are stuck on a dead spot, we give the starter a good thud and if the starter starts working immediately we know it needs one. Some times it takes a few bonks to get it to work. If the starter is too far gone however, this test will not work and other procedures need to be performed in order to rule out all else as the cause for the concern. I hope this info helps...(subytech1)