2006 Suzuki Reno 2.0L with codes P2106, P2110, P0700?

The fault is neither of those, check the Throttle Actuator Control System.
There will be a broken wire or bad connection along the wiring loom.

Check all the fuses in the fuse box first

did you first read the FSM on that?
all words,. if not why not. its TBW car.
throttle by WIRE.
just $4 bucks too, near free, hell is free.
it will save you $4 easy, I PROMISE.

https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1066-2006-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx

It`s coming up the Camshaft position sensor.

Here is what meens those codes:

P2106
Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power

P2110
Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM

P2135
Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage Correlation

P1516
Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance

I beleive that there is, specifically for chevrolet aveo 2006 a technician service bulletins.

You should have it checked at gm dealer!!!

ask for
TSB Number: SB-08-06-04-004
TSB Number: 08-06-04-023

you have an electrical problem, 562 is:
System Voltage Low(pasted from obd2 index, sorry for caps)
the battery light is not a battery light its a charge idiot lamp.
it means, the alternator can not charge the battery.
the light glowing means literally, the alterntator has shut down!
at that moment the battery begin is death spiral, that is its discharges until the EFI goes nuts, or spark goes weak
get a volt meter, connect it to the CIG light.
or go to any autostore in USA, cant speak for others.
and see the CIG lighter tester, its has LEDs to tell you
good bad or ugly, id never use this but id use a real DMM
connected to to the CIG light (i use this because its easy to get to)

now 12.6 vdc is battery charging.
start car and 13.3 to 15v is alternator is working. if not in this range
the (lower means shut down, higher means out of control (bad)

it is that simple, better cars have a voltmeter in the dash.
you have a blown fuse, to the ALT,
or bad wiring,
it can be just corroded battery cables. or ends.

keep in mind when the engine stalls, may ) lamps in the I.P cluster come one, this only signals you , the engine stalls.

look for coronation on all 4 paths from Alternator to battery.
that includes the Alterator Ground, (case)
keep and open mind, most alternators replaced are good.
this is because of 2 reasons, no meter. or doing the tests wrong.

i might add, that some batteries short a cell , every other speed bump, so just because it tests ok , now dont make it good.
is your battery 7 years old? (see date code on same) July 2006?

The alternator can be hard to diagnose, it can in fact shut down
at faults and this makes diagnosis hard. just knowing this one
fact , allows you to up the levels of testing.
also some cars the PCM controls the ALT .

so you do have a primary DC power distribution error.
Causing the Alternator to Shut down.

tranny 07xx is tranny.
734
4 gear is slipping, (real bad that)
http://engine-codes.com/p0734_suzuki.html

P161B = Engine Torque Control - Limit Reached = the torque delivered by the motor has exceeded its rated value
P2106 = Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power
and
P2110 = Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM = the engine overrevved , pumped more power than it was rated for and it had to be forced to slow down by closing the throttle.
All this is caused by P0496 = Evap Emmission high--- purge flow fault = the evap valve got stuck in the fully open position, pumped a lot of fuel in the motor and acted like a fully opened throttle; have it cleaned and if that doesn't fixes, replace it.

The sensor ($100) in the throttle body ($400) is dirty and your engine is running high mix of gas. If you do not get it fixed, it will melt your catalytic converter ($1000) and stop up your muffler and your car will not run until you clean out the muffler system. If your car is not running, test this by disconnecting the exhaust manifold and try to start it.

after another check,determined it was bad alternator