Had abs pump fitted as second hand ecu fitted sorted all problems when came back from garage temperature gage not working please help thanks

SOURCE: Fuel & Temperature Gage problem

hi check the simple things first fuses then take the temperture senders wire off and ground it get someone to watch the temp gauge if the gauge is ok it will move straight into the hot if so change the sender switch then do the same with the fuel tanks sender unit wire if gauge is ok it will show full now presumming the gauges are moving and the fuses are ok the problem is on the clocks some cars have a removeable stablizer between the gauges if so it is a simple fix yates210456

SOURCE: Audi a4 ABS light on

ensure the ecu connection is good the plug for those sometimes need a good amount of pressure to put on abs light i would check the sensors next to your brake caliper to ensure its not broken or disconnect it or if you dont feel like checking it buy new ones and replace them

SOURCE: 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan. Whenever

Reports say that this can be caused by cold solder connections in the centre instrument panel where the A/C controls are. Electrical system issue here manifests itself in instrument cluster. Fix is to remove 4 screws to access A/C stuff. Look for burnt or loose wiring / terminals on connectors in this area.. Re-solder or obtain used replacemnt terminal if needed, from junk yard. Mine is 1999 Grand Caravan. Intermittent failures then permanent with instrument cluster.

SOURCE: Hi, On my 98 volvo s40, The ABS dashboard light

You will definitely have to take it and have the light reset. Or you could try to take the Negative battery cable off for about 15 minutes, sometimes this will reset the computer.

Testimonial: "Thanks for the advice, 10/10"

SOURCE: Renault Megane Scenic 2002

I recently bought a second hand 54 reg Scenic and when I used the key card to lock the car it emitted a high pitched noise/sound/whistle. While looking for the source of the sound I leant on the bonnet. I found that every time I put pressure on a certain point on the bonnet the noise stopped, but when I took my hand off it started again. I guessed it must be some kind of contact breaker, so opened the bonnet and took a look. I spotted two contacts on the underside of the bonnet and guessed they were being held too far from the main body, on the edge on the opening I found two round rubber adjustable dampers (presumably to stop the bonnet banging when closed) I screwed them both in slightly and it cured the problem.
It's worth checking this before taking the car to the garage. I guess the high pitched noise is to warn you that something isn't closing properly.