Question about 2005 Buick LaCrosse
There is nothing unusual about this radiator, but replacing it can be messy. You need to drain the radiator using the valve at the bottom (may be hidden by an air deflector panel at the bottom front of the car), remove the cowling above the radiator, disconnect and remove the cooling fan(s), disconnect all hoses (and pipes if connected), then remove the retaining bolts in the bracket above the radiator. You can then pull the radiator up and out.
If this is a radiator that includes an integrated engine and/or transmission oil cooler, you need to be aware that fluid will leak fluid from the disconnected pipes. Although the amount is usually small, you will need to check these fluid levels when you are done and top up if needed.
Reverse this procedure with the new radiator and be very careful not to damage it. Be sure to use an "all types" antifreeze to avoid corrosion in future.
Posted on Mar 30, 2018
there should be 2 brackets at the rear of bulb housing, 1 may have a small bolt.....lift these up and the headlamp housing should come out. you will see how it works when you get it apart.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
The front spark plugs should not be a problem. The rear are accessed with use of an "engine tilter". It can be purchased at many auto parts businesses, I purchased mine from NAPA. However, you may have to order one on-line as it is "an unknown item" as many of us are unaware that it even exists and I am sure that the mechanics and techs want to keep it that way. My cost in 2009 was in the $35 to $80 range for the tilter. It may sound a little scarry using it because you loosen the upper (literally right up on top where they are most easily accessed) mounts, but it is easy. I found that no electrical, air flow from filter, exhaust, etc., had to be loosened or removed. You only remove one side and install the tilter. Next you adjust the "tilter" to remove tension on the other bolt. Finally, simply screw the adjuster toward the front of car until you either have enough room to access the rear plugs or until you run out of bolt threads at which point you have as much room to do the job as any tech/mechanic. As usual, remove the old plugs (I only do one at a time which also eliminates crossing plug wires) and screw the new ones in several turns by hand to make sure that there is no cross threading. Once you are satisfied with your level of maintenance, simply adjust the "tilter" back to a point where the loose motor mount accepts the bolt to front frame, tighten it, remove the "tilter" and reinstall the second bolt. It really is that easy, but you will want to protect your paint with a proper cover as you do have to lean heavily against the fender or fenders. Oh, by the way, many mechanics skip the difficult-to-access plugs, knowing that when they, or it fails, you will be back. Enjoy, you will feel like a real pro, knowing that your job was done correctly and is complete!!!
Posted on Mar 02, 2011
REAR BREAKS(I ASUME) REQUIER A SPECIAL TOOL TO SCREW THE REAR CALIPERS IN SO YOU CAN INSTALL PADS
Posted on Nov 15, 2011
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