Water pump on a vw 2001 bad pump how to change it with a new one

SOURCE: 2001 vw cabrio

Have you checked or replaced the water temp sensor ? Also check the connection to the sensor for rust or corrosion

SOURCE: 2001 VW 1.8T

Yes. There are only 3 nuts holding the air pump in place. They are 10mm in size. There are also two hoses, one in and one out. You just have to squeeze the end of the hose where there are ridges in the plastic to release them. The hardest part is getting the pump out of the tight space where it is located. You may have to twist and turn it a few different ways until you find a path for the pump to exit the vehicle. Where did you find the pump? I have to do the same repair to my 2000 model. Unfortunately, the only discounted parts I can find are used.

SOURCE: 2001 VW PASSAT OVERHEATING

they changed the thermostat, water pump, flush it down, timing belt, but still overheating my VW passat 2001, what is the problem

ZJ Limited

• 17989 Answers
• Posted on Mar 29, 2010

SOURCE: 2001 vw beetle service manual ? need to change

Check this procedure to how to replace a water pump (DIY Complexity: Moderate / Time: 3.5 hours):

Parts:
1. Water Pump

Tools:
1. Screwdriver
2. Scraper
3. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
4. Cooling System Pressure Tester
5. Needle Nose Pliers
6. Socket Set
7. Radiator Hook Tool

Supplies:
1. Coolant
2. Silicone Sealant

Steps:
Step 1 With the engine off and cold, open the hood and locate the vehicle’s water pump.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
o Tip: Before removing the radiator cap, squeeze the upper radiator hose to verify that the cooling system is not pressurized.

Step 2 Remove the radiator cap.

Step 3 Install cooling system pressure tester. Apply the pressure indicated on the radiator cap or in the owner’s manual.

Step 4 Inspect cooling system components for leaks.

Step 5 Place a drain pan under the radiator. Open drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to drain cooling system.
o Tip: Depending on the vehicle, lifting the vehicle may be required to gain access to the lower radiator hose.

Step 6 Remove the drive belts or serpentine belt.

Step 7 Remove any hoses connected to water pump.

Step 8 Unbolt water pump from engine. Remove the water pump.

Step 9 Using a gasket scraper, clean the mating surface on the engine block.

Step 10 Install new water pump and new gasket. Tighten bolts to manufacturer’s specifications.
o Tip: You may want to use a light bead of silicone designed for water pumps.

Step 11 Re-install any hoses and belts that were removed.

Step 12 Re-install drain plug or lower radiator hose.
o Tip: Squeeze the radiator hose. If it feels soft you may want to replace the hose at this time. Always use new hose clamps.

Step 13 Refill radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, then pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks.

Step 14 Fill overflow reservoir with same mixture.

Step 15 Leave the radiator cap off, start engine and let it idle. You should see the system“burping” bubbles of air. Refill the radiator to the top.
o Tip: Most air is expelled after a couple minutes of idling. Be cautious of potentially hot fluid overflowing.

Step 16 Install radiator cap.

Step 17 Road test vehicle, keep an eye on the engine temp gauge if vehicle runs hot, there still might be an air pocket in the cooling system. The cooling system should be topped off after vehicle has fully cooled down.

Good luck.

SOURCE: 2001 VW Golf TDI ,overheats,spent over $2000

Fact is, for a 2001 car, taking it to a dealer is just asking for trouble-they saw you coming, and too advantage of it. You might consult with an attorney, but the fact of the matter is you decided to allow them to 'diagnose' it and then took it to another facility for repair. That it took them 4 hours to incorrectly diagnose says it all-unless a car is under warranty, taking a vehicle to a dealer is a huge waste of money.

Get a compression test done-it might reveal a blown head gasket or worse, damage to the mating surfaces of the engine and head(s)-I think the repair facility who actually did the repairs bought into the bad diagnosis, so appeal to their professionalism-have them do the compression test and a pressure test to the cooling system to determine the extent of the damage. Finally, your car is 10 years old-the dealer should have done right by you, but more often than not, the abuse people who drive older cars because of the years of attachment and the possibility of a huge bill.