2006 Escalade brake booster where do the 2 o-rings that come with the new one go

booster failure .

ABS system problem
problem brake booster
problem brake master cylinder not returning fluid to the reservoir
Take it to a specialist brake shop for a proper diagnosis and quote

When a vehicle is turned off, the brake pedal should remain firm. However, if the driver pushes the pedal lightly and it sinks to the floor, the master cylinder has an internal leak.

that means you will be pushing VERY HARD to stop, if that's the case replace it with new one very easy to do , remove vacuum line to booster , remove master cylinder and proportioning valve DONT TAKE THEM APART just unbolt them and drop them down ,now go under dash and unbolt booster 4 bolts on most models ,disconnect brake pedal and remove , reassemble in reverse.

you may want to check these solutions, sounds like it could be the brake booster. check the vacuum line the goes to the booster. disconnect it and start the truck, air should be sucking into the line. also there should be a one way valve on that line. make sure not to forget to check your brake fluid..it could be low or none at all.

are you talking about brake fluid --power steering lines do not connect to the brake system --- also their is no weep hole at the bottom of the brake booster ---can you please clarify what is leaking and where --power steering lines from pump to radiator to steering rack ----brake booster mounted to fire wall with brake master cylinder bolted to front

You don't need to remove that clamp. The booster should come out without having to do anything on the interior. You might have to muscle it out to get it loose. Look at the booster you are replacing it with and don't remove anything it doesn't come with.

Get some rags, drain pan, flair wrenches, sockets, needle nose pliers, 5/16 nut driver, a drop light and new "o" rings for the hydraulic lines for the power steering hose, p/s fluid and some patience. It will take about 2hrs to do.
1) Put the drain pan under the truck to catch the fluid that will come out the hoses when you disconnect them.
2) Remove the two 9/16 or 15mm nuts holding the master cylender on the booster and gently pull it away from the booster, the brake lines will move with it out of the way.
3) Remove the return hose with the 5/16 nut driver and the preasure line with the flair 3/4 wrench and let the fluid drain in the pan. Take the "o" ring off the line and save it to get a new one. The new booster may not come with a new one. Then disconnect the motor connector under it.
4) Go inside the truck and remove the spring clip that holds the brake switch to the pedal and remove the slide pin also.
5) Get a swivel socket, extention and ratchet (most likely 15mm) and remove the 4 nuts holding the booster onto the firewall. you may need a wrench for some tight spots also.
6) Pull the booster assembly out with rags to keep fluid from getting onto the paint and inner fender. Turn the booster over and remove the motor from the underside, saving the oval rings that seal it to the booster, check that they come with the booster in the box, if not you'll have to use the old ones or get new ones to keep fluid from leaking there.
7) Exchange the whole assembly with the rod attached, it comes complete with a new one. Put the boost motor on with the oval rings.
8) Put the rod through the hole so it goes onto the pedal straight, you can't move it later if you miss.
9) Put the nuts on, switch, pin and clip, then the hoses with a new "o" ring being carefull to get the line nut started straight to avoid striping it, it does happen sometimes. Attach the master cylender, and fill it with fluid. The power steering that is. A quart should do.
10) Jack up the front end to take the weight off the front end, start it and let it run a little while and move the steering back and forth, check for air in the fluid and top it off. shut it off and let the bubbles disapear. then start it up again and push on the brake pedal to bleed the air out of it. check the fluid for air and let it settle again, then lower it onto the ground. Don't forget the drain pan under the truck.

ACTUALLY AT PRESENT, FORD IS RECALLING 605,684 MY 2005-2006 F-150 AND LINCOLN MARK LT VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 5.4L 3-VALVE ENGINES.

TONCE THE BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM RESERVE IS DEPLETED, THE DRIVER WILL HAVE FOUNDATION BRAKE FUNCTION, BUT WITH INCREASED BRAKE PEDAL EFFORT. REDUCED VEHICLE BRAKING COULD LEAD TO A CRASH.

HOWEVER DEALERS WILL REPLACE A RUBBER HOSE ON THE BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM SUPPLY TUBE ASSEMBLY.

THE RECALL BEGAN ON JUNE 27, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673.
I HOPE THIS HELPS.......................SODEEP

it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms