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How to replace heater blower on 2008 pontiac g5

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  • 157 Answers

Look under dash of passenger side floor area or open glove compartment and move the clips. It should be in this area. there will be 4 or 5 screws (bolts) 7 or 8 mm holding the blower motor in place.
It's likely that its a bad connection in this area or something inside blocking the motor from turning so prior to buying a new heater remove the existing one and wiggle the wires connecting it. Sometimes you give it a boot and it will start up which is just a loose connection. The wires could be burnt here indicating a loose connection there or too much resistance in the blower motor perhaps.

Posted on Dec 17, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: recalls

take to closest dealer they will check for free.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

Anonymous

  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: I cant get the door panel off of my 2008 pontiac

Check for hidden access covers for mounting hardware if not the pannel is secured either lock-pins released by a plastic weidge or needs to be lifted upward of weidge hooks mounted on the pannel itself. A cheep service manual like haynes at the local autoparts store should have this info in it.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

stmic47

  • 564 Answers

SOURCE: replace heater blower motor on a 1992 pontiac grand am

are u sure its the blower motor or heater control modular,,what is wrong with blower,,not working ?

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

popsgifts

JB PopsGifts.com

  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: How often is it required to change the FUEL filter

To be completely honest, no one can give you that answer accurately.

It is recommended every 2-3 years, but the requirement can be different depending on your annual mileage and real-world uses.
For example;
Using cheap gasoline means saving a few cents on a fill-up, but will subject your engine (and it's filters) to more debris and slow damage...

If you allow your tank to go to empty before re-filling, you're pushing debris through the lines (everyone has some in their tank, most have more than they would imagine)...this clogs the filters much faster.

Your local station's storage tanks come into play as well...An older station could have a great deal of sediment in their underground tanks, and when they get low, and you buy on those days, you get your share of rust and sludge (and you're paying a premium for it...Fun stuff, huh?).

Here's my recommendation, and the "tricks" that I use to get the recommended schedules from my engine parts;

1: Only buy a quality name-brand fuel (Shell makes a great gas in all grades, and have an excellent quality standard for both the storage/distribution stations as well as the tanker trucks ( another weak link in the delivery chain ), All of which play another important role in getting clean fuel to your tank.

* An extra dime on a fill-up is nothing compared to having a $40 fuel filter replaced every year...and the eventual more serious repairs (injectors, rings, valves, etc.)

2: Never buy from an old station unless you know for a fact that they have replaced their storage tanks within the last 5 years.

3: Fill-up before a rain storm, never the day after (or the next day after that at a slower station).

4: When you see a fuel delivery truck in the lot, pass to the next station.
> This means 2 things; The tanks are low, and the new fuel isn't worth buying for an hour.

No system is perfect, and every storage tank has some sediment on the bottom...This is rarely an issue, except when the new delivery stirs that sediment while pumping the new fuel in...You don't want to be buying that soup for your engine, especially at today's prices.

5: Never let the tank go to E and once a month throw in a bottle of fuel system cleaner.

(Personal note: I prefer Mystery Oil...A bottle costs the same as a bottle of STP, but you only use 2 ounces of Marvel at a time so the bottle lasts for 4 months, while STP and the others are a one-shot deal.)

Posted on Apr 09, 2010

Marc Helfrich

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: how to change a front

If you can't see or reach this burnt out light from under the open hood, and there are no screws through the lens to take out. You will have to get on your back under front of car and reach up and turn out(about 1/2 turn) the bulb socket from the light assembly. After you replace the defective bulb it goes back in the same way it came out. Good luck, best regards.

Posted on Feb 01, 2011

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