Instrument cluster 2006 ford focus, removed instrument cluster to replace bulb. when I put it back together, gauges do not work properly

SOURCE: 1989 Ford F150 Instrument Cluster Problem

Some of the gauges are on the same fuse as the dome light; check the fuses. The other main source of gauge problems for this vintage F150 is the sending units and I don't use the term sending unit lightly, so when you go to the parts store make sure you say you are looking for sending units not sensors (sensors hook to the computer) sending units are of 2 types for this vintage F150, lights and guages you need the ones for gauges, the oil sending unit is about 4 dollars and the coolant temp sending unit for a guage is about the same.

I have 4 fords and you will come to understand that the wiring is a jury rig, all this come out when they are the age of your 1989 PU.

SOURCE: speedometer, tachometer, fuel, and temp gauge not working

Take out the pc board and examine the copper traces. On my '94 Jetta I found one corroded trace that disabled the the same functions. I had to solder a wire to fix the connection. Good luck.

SOURCE: how do i remove the instrument cluster on my 2000

Ok here is how you do it.

Tools Required:
Flashlight
Ratchet or spinner handle
7mm socket
8mm socket
Ford DIN radio removal keys
ZipLoc bags, cups or some other way to store bolts
T15 torx bit (column shift only)
Automotive trim removal tools (helpful but not necessary).

(optional for odometer adjustment)
T15 torx bit
very flat straight edge

ICP=integrated control panel, the radio and HVAC controls.

Obviously it's up to you, but taking your ratchet and a 7mm bit to the negative terminal on the battery may be a good idea considering you will be working with electronics. Make sure you have turned off all lights; keys are out of the ignition, before you disconnect the terminal.

First, take the 8mm socket and attack the two screws up under the steering column. They are gold/copper color and near the OBD-II port. You'll feel them if you don't want to bend down at see them. Once you remove them, give the kick panel a few tugs and it should give way. There are some clips holding it on as well. If you are stuck halfway, you might it useful to use the flashlight to look around to see what's holding it on.

Next, removing the radio involves using the two Ford DIN radio removal keys. Insert both of them into the slot and push them in until they are sticking out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Then take your thumbs and push the inside side of each key outwards and start pulling...the ICP should pop right out. Keep pressure on pushing the keys in as well, so the radio doesn't get stuck. Column shifter people will find it ideal to fold out the console to rest the ICP surround and the ICP. You can also disconnect the cabling entirely if you'd rather. Floor shift models will find it ideal to put their keys in, turn the key to "RUN" and place the shifter in "1". Floor shift models can also go ahead and tilt the wheel all the way down as well.

Now you should see 5 screws holding on your ICP bezel. Take the 7mm socket and remove each of those 5 bolts. There are also two bolts of the same size behind the ashtray. Pull the ashtray out, push down on the tounge, and pull the ashtray out. Remove those 2 screws as well. I used a cup to dump all the screws into. A ZipLoc bag is a good idea as well. Grab around the ICP opening and give a good tug. Plastic clips embedded in the ICP surround and those screws are holding it in place. There is a clip holding the ICP surround next to the kick panel you previously removed, that can be difficult as well. *NOTE* You can also leave the screws in the ashtray attached and fold the ICP surround down, but it's best not to do this multiple times, you can only flex the metal tabs so much.

Next, remove the two 7mm bolts in the top of the instrument cluster surround. Now, column shift models (floor shift models have already done this), go ahead and put your key in the ignition, turn it to the "RUN" position and shift down into "1". Also tilt the wheel all the way down. There is one 7MM screw holding that bezel on to the top-left of the ICP surround area . It's right below the row of warning lamps on the far right of the instrument cluster. It holds the upper instrument cluster surround to the dashboard.

Now it's time to start pulling off the upper instrument cluster surround (the one with the vents, light switch, etc). A metal trim remover is not as ideal as it can put blemishes in your dash. Harbor Freight sells a kit of 6 plastic trim removal tools for about $5. They won't scratch and harm the soft upper dash as much. Don't be afraid to try griping at different angles, just requires a little pulling. Use the tool accordingly. Once you have it loosened out of the dash, you have one more step before you fully remove it.

Unfortunately, the G4 headlight switch knob does not pop off as easily as the G3. You can either stick a small, flathead screwdriver (wrapped in a cloth) in the slot between the dash and the bottom of the light switch. Then start prying away at it. OR (the easier method) Once you have popped out the upper dash trim, you should be able to push the headlight switch out through the opening. Disconnect the cables and set the headlight switch aside.

Now you can fully remove the upper dash trim. Start by pulling on the upper part that goes around the instrument cluster. Be warned there is a plastic wedge shapped clip in the middle. It will require bending of the plastic to make it pop out correctly. If you have a leather wrapped wheel, be careful not to scratch or cut the leather. The upper dash trim requires manipulating the shifter position (column shift models) and swiveling the trim around the steering column and pulling up on it towards the roof of the car. Eventually it will pop out.

Now you should have a good view of your instrument cluster. There are 4 7mm screws holding it in place. The cluster rests on two small knobs on the bottom as well. Go ahead and remove those bolts. There are two, 2" long connectors that go into the back of the cluster. They are at opposite ends near the top of the cluster. They have clips on the top of the connectors. Push down on it and uninstall them (not an easy task, but doable. If you are a floor shift model, continue on. Otherwise...if you are a column shift model, this is an ideal time to remove the PRNDD1 indicator. This requires the T15 torx bit. There are two small T15 on opposite ends of the bottom of the PRNDD1 indicator. Be careful and don't let the cable drop behind the dashboard.

Go ahead and remove the cluster. If you need to take your keys with you, regardless of shifter position, you can put the car in park and take your keys out.

----------Instrument cluster disassembly and odometer correction-----------
This would be a good time to check all the lightbulbs, make sure they are not blown. Flip the cluster over. Take some needle nose pliers, grasp one of the lighted areas (they are marked and color coded). The big black ones are the background lighting, the smaller ones are for the indicator/warning lamps. Twist the holder counter clockwise, then pull up. You should have a view of the light bulb.

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--------END Cluster/Odometer----------
Next, reattach the upper trim panel, inserting the clip in first. As with last time, play around with the shifter in various positions(column shift) and make sure you get that 2" trim piece BEHIND the shifter. Once you have it set in place, go ahead and insert the two screws holding the panel into the upper dash. Reconnect the headlight switch and push it back into the dash. Insert the screw below the instrument cluster. Next reattach the ICP trim surround. Insert those 5 screws. Reinsert the kick panel below and insert the two 8mm screws. Pop back in the the ICP (with the radio DIN tools removed). Congrats, should be all back in place AOK.

SOURCE: instrument panel cluster gauges and odometer has stopped working

I had all my analog instrument panel gauges stop working after they did the state emissions test. I found the proper fuse in the fuse block located under the hood. Simply unplugged the fuse, noticed it was still good, and plugged the same fuse (10A) back in and all the gauges started working again. Guess it needed a reset atfer they plugged in for the emissions.

SOURCE: Need to replace instrument cluster/AC bulbs

Hello, You can obtain a 2004 Ram Factory Service Manual with all of that information available from Promanuals.net. The reason why it may be so important is because right before the removal instructions the service manual has diagnostic instructions to try. There are numerous pages on removing the instrument cluster, and cluster bezel.

(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. (For Airbag)

(2) Remove the cluster bezel from the instrument
panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
CLUSTER BEZEL - REMOVAL).

(3) Remove the four screws that secure the instrument
cluster to the instrument panel structural support
(Fig. 5).

(4) Pull the instrument cluster rearward far
enough to access and disconnect the instrument
panel wire harness connectors for the cluster from
the connector receptacles on the back of the cluster
housing.

(5) Remove the instrument cluster from the instrument
panel.