Need to relpace lug nuts, what is needed to remove the hub?

If all bolts are removed some hubs are to harder to remove soak entire hub to housing with wd 40 or equivalent inside bolt hole also let sit 20 minutes and smack it pretty hard.
If still not working rent a axel puller slide hammer attach and pop out hope this helps

Dont remove the hub! Usually you can rotate the hub and find a spot that the stud will come out.Other option is to saw off and inch or so of the stud before you remove it.Then knock it out.Good luck!

You will need a special tool to press the lug studs in and out of the flange, or you can follow these directions;

First you will have to pound the broken lug stud(s) out of the wheel hub/flange, use a punch or a drift that is a little smaller in diameter than the lug stud, and be sure that you do not pound on the flange itself, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.

1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.

2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down backwards with the flat end of the lug nut towards the flat washers to take up the slack and use plenty of grease on the threads.

3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.

Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.

You require "lug studs" to be able to install a lug nut to secure the tire.

You will need a special tool to press the lug studs in and out of the flange, or you can follow these directions;

First you will have to pound the broken lug stud(s) out of the wheel hub, use a punch or a drift that is a little smaller in diameter than the lug stud, and be sure that you do not pound on the flange itself, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.

1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.

2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down backwards with the flat end of the lug nut towards the flat washers to take up the slack and use plenty of grease on the threads.

3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.

Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.

You do not remove the wheel hub flange, just follow the procedure that I replied to earlier, and this is the procedure if you do not want to obtain a special tool for pressing the lug studs;

First you will have to pound the broken lug studs out of the wheel hub, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.

1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.

2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down to take up the slack.

3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.

Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.

First you will have to pound the broken lug studs out of the wheel hub, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.

1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.

2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down to take up the slack.

3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.

Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.

Loosen the rear lug nuts, jack up the car, remove the rear wheels, remove the brake drums, remove the brake shoes and hardware, remove the 4 bolts holding the hubs in. Bolt in the new hubs, reassemble the brake shoes and hard ware, put the brake drums on, put the wheels on and snug the lug nuts, lower the car, tighten the lug nuts.

Removing: Loosen lug nuts (7/8") and spindle nut (36mm). Lift truck. Remove lug nuts, spindle nut, and wheel. Remove 2 bolts (3/8" allen) holding calipers on. Hold the calipers up with a bungee cord. I attached it to the sheet metal of the fender. Remove 4 bolts (15mm) from rear of hubs. Once these bolts are removed you can move the shield that is in-between the hub and the axle(I think). You are moving it to get access to the allen bolt that holds the ABS sensor on. Once you move the shield then you can look through the top of the rotor through the slots and see the sensor line and bolt. I don't remember what size allen this one took. You do need a long allen wrench though. Disconnect sensing line from hub. Now the rotor is ready to come off. I had to use a pry bar to remove this gently working each side until it popped off. Once the rotor is removed, you need to hammer out the lug bolts. Then you have to tap the rotor away from the hub. This took a little work. Then check each of the lug bolts by screwing the lug nuts on them. They should go all the way down by hand. If they don't - go buy new bolts $2 a piece. Installing: Position new rotor on hub. Get some dry ice from your local grocery store and freeze the bolts for about 10 minutes. Pull one bolt out of the ice at a time and install on the rotor and tighten the bolt with the lug nut. I put the nuts on upside down and used a 7/8" wrench and mallet to tap on the wrench to get these as tight as possible. You also have to tap on the head of the bolt and repeat the wrench tapping. Do this for each bolt pulling one out of the ice at a time. You do not have to get the rotor and hub completely together but get it as close together as possible. Once all of the lug bolts are in it is time to put the rotor on the truck. Ensure the shield is on the spindle and install the rotor, again, this takes some work. Once the rotor is on, connect the ABS sensing line. Line up the shield and install 4 bolts to rear of hub. You can align these by moving the hub, not the rotor. Install the caliper, remember to put brake grease on these 2 bolts. You may have to compress the caliper slightly. To do this remove the brake pad that has the circular part of the caliper touching it. Open the brake fill cap on the master cylinder. Use a C-clamp to compress the circular part. Reinstall the brake pad and brake fill cap. Install the caliper. Install the wheel and tighten lug nuts. I used a cheater bar on my tire iron and ensured that the lug bolts were flush with the head of the lug nuts. Then I removed the wheel to verify that the gap between the rotor and the hub was gone. Reinstall wheel, tighten lug nuts, and tighten spindle nut. Once both brakes have been replaced, start up the truck and pump the brakes several times till you feel some tension when pressing them.

there is a large nut that holds that hub on. Remove the cotter pin and the cap from the bolt... remove the bolt and the hub comes off.

Robert