How do i get my oil pan off once i got all bolts out its a 92 ranger five speed with the 3.0

Yes, all oil pans need gaskets. The torque is 18 ft lbs. PDF file

Oil Pan Replacement - ChevroletForum

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2005 Chevrolet EQUINOX. Submodel: LT ' Engine Type: V6 ' Liters: 3.4. Fuel Delivery: FI ' Fuel: GAS. Oil Pan Replacement. Tools Required. J 39505 Torque ...


Do you need to torque oil pan bolts?
Engine oil pan bolts range in torque from seven foot-pounds to 22 ft-lb or more for large engines with heavier pans and bolts. Once you've torqued the bolts and filled the engine with oil, you should run the engine for five minutes to bring it up to normal operating temperature.

Videos and more info

https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+chevy+equinox+oil+pan+bolts+torque

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Not sure what your looking for , but give this a try
diagram 1997 ford ranger 2 3 liter engine 4 cylinder stick shift five...

The motor mounts have a hinge bolt that goes through the upper engine hard bracket and the engine mount rubber section, it goes from from to rear in line with the engine, remove the nuts and take the load off the mount with a floor jack under the pan (use a block softwood to avoid denting the pan), once the nut and load is off slide the long bolt out and raise the engine.

I,m going to share something with you that i found out my van had ticking lifters and all i did was clean the oil pan filter

1. drain all the oil from oil pan
2. take oil pan off
3. once that is done you will see a long tube comming down by the crank.
4. remove the 1 or 2 bolts that hold the filter on
5. once removed you can give it a good rinse out with a gas/2stroke oil mix
6. once fully dry replace back to original location
7 put new oil pan gasket on
8 put oil pan back on
9 torque bolts down to 12.5 foot pounds
10 full with oil
11 start vehicle and let run

Good luck!
Let me know how it turns out

Oil Pan, Ranger SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036
Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 14-01.

1. Remove air cleaner outlet tube assembly by unclipping air cleaner clamp, loosening hose clamp at outlet tube, disconnecting intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor connectors, and crankcase ventilation hose.

1. Remove oil level indicator fan shroud retaining bolts. Position shroud over fan blade.

1. Remove radiator support bolts. Raise and secure radiator to front core support.

1. Remove engine mount nuts from studs.

1. Unclip 42-pin connector from bracket and position it aside.

1. Install suitable lifting brackets to left and right exhaust manifolds. Attach Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent) to lifting brackets. With a suitable lifting device raise engine approximately 50.8 mm (2 in). Install wood blocks between engine mounts and support brackets. Remove lifting device.

1. Raise vehicle on hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 00-02.

1. Drain the oil.

1. Remove transmission insulator retaining nuts and install a jack stand to extension housing. Raise transmission about 25.4-101.6mm (1-4 in) to gain access for removal of oil pan.

1. Remove transmission inspection cover.

1. Remove starter motor splash shield.

1. Remove starter motor retaining bolts and secure starter aside.

1. If equipped, disconnect and remove low oil level sensor.

1. NOTE: Oil pan fits tightly between transmission spacer plate and oil pump pickup tube. Use care when removing pan to avoid damaging either part.
   Remove oil pan bolts and lower pan.

1. Remove oil pump retaining bolts. Lower and twist pump to allow the oil pan to lower completely. Remove the pump and pan assembly from vehicle.

1. Remove and discard oil pan gasket.

1. Clean the oil pan mating surface.

Installation

1. NOTE: When using silicone rubber sealer, assembly should occur within 15 minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to set up, and its sealing effectiveness could be reduced.
   Apply a 4.0-6.0 mm (1/5 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or -BA (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) to junction of rear main bearing cap and cylinder block and to junction of front cover assembly and cylinder block. Position oil pan gasket to cylinder block and secure it with Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M11P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A).

1. Install oil pump assembly and bolt. Tighten bolt to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).

1. NOTE: If oil pan is replaced with a new pan you must tighten new pan to spec then loosen and retighten.
   Position oil pan to cylinder block and install oil pan to engine bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).

1. Remove jack stand and install transmission insulator retaining nuts. Tighten nuts to 85-118 Nm (63-87 lb-ft).

1. NOTE: When replacing low oil level sensor, use a new metal gasket with a rubber O-ring.
   Install low oil level sensor. Tighten sensor to 20-34 Nm (15-25 lb-ft).

1. Install transmission inspection cover and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).

1. Install starter motor and bolts. Tighten bolts to 22-28 Nm (17-20 lb-ft).

1. Securely install starter motor splash shield.

1. Lower vehicle.

1. Install lifting device and support engine. Remove wood blocks and lower engine back into original position. Remove lifting device and Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent). Remove lifting brackets from right and left exhaust manifolds.

1. Remove support straps, lower radiator into position, and install radiator bolts to core support. Position fan shroud and install the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 6-8 Nm (52-71 lb-in).

1. Install engine mount nuts and tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).

1. Connect 42-pin connector to the bracket and install oil level indicator.

1. Install engine air cleaner outlet tube assembly. Connect IAT sensor, MAF sensor, and crankcase ventilation hose. Securely tighten the hose clamp.

1. NOTE: When battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms can occur while powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. Vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn strategy.
   Connect battery ground cable.

1. Fill crankcase with correct viscosity and amount of engine oil.

1. Start engine and check for oil leaks.
   
   Oil Pan Installation - Ranger
   
   
   
   
   
   Hope this helps

Find your oil pan's drain plug -- it just looks like a bolt from the outside. Use this to drain the oil from your vehicle first (keeps you from getting covered in oil later). Once the oil has drained out (usually it will still be dripping, but that's OK) put the plug back in so you won't get dripped on. Then find all of the bolts around the pan that you just drained -- there should be several around the top of the oil pan connecting it to the engine. Once you have removed all of these bolts, the oil pan should come off relatively easily -- most times it gets a little stuck to the oil pan seal, so you might have to pull on it a little, or if it's really stuck, you might have to pry it off (be careful not to damage the oil pan when doing this). If you notice that the oil pan is REALLY stuck on there, make sure you got ALL of the bolts (if you miss one the pan will not move).
Once the oil pan is off the car, and you have done what you need to do, clean the surfaces where the oil pan will connect back to the car -- making certain that the old gasket has been totally removed (leaving debris from the old oil pan seal will keep the new seal from functioning correctly. When you go to put the pan back on the car, make sure you have the oil pan seal set perfectly where it is supposed to go, then hand tighten the bolts back where they should be. Don't tighten all of the bolts down quite yet.
Check to make sure that the oil pan seal has not moved out of place, then tighten one bolt, but not ALL the way tight yet. Once you have one bold mostly tightened with your wrench, start tightening the bolt on the opposite side of the pan from the first one you just tightened -- and make this one about as tight as the first one. Next, double check that the seal has not moved, and then tighten a bolt on a 90 degree angle from your first two. Next, do the bolt opposite the third. Work on one bolt at a time, making sure that you don't tighten two bolts next to each other in a row. This will help you make sure you do not move or distort your oil pan seal as you are replacing the oil pan. I don't know the exact number of bolts, but if you follow the pattern from the diagram below as much as you can, you should not have too many problems. Once all of the bolts have been wrench tightened in this order (or similar depending on how many bolts there are, and their placement) go around the pan one more time, making sure that all of the bolts are nice and snug and you should be just about done -- don't forget to put more oil in the car before you turn it on :-)
Bolt Tightening to keep pan seal from slipping out of place:
1 ----- 9 ----- 6 -----4 ' ' 7 8 ' ' 3 ----- 5 ---- 10 --- 2

Hi. Here's the procedure on how to change the oil pan.

Things You'll Need:
Drain pan
Crescent wrench
New oil filter
Oil filter wrench
Socket wrench
Socket set
Razor knife
Putty knife
New oil pan
Oil pan gasket
6 qt. of oil
Clean towel

Draining the Oil
1. 1 Locate the oil pan directly underneath the engine. The oil pan will be held on to the bottom of the motor by 16 to 18 bolts. The drain plug is at the bottom of the pan.
   
2. 2 Loosen the drain plug with a crescent wrench. Allow all the oil to drain in to the pan. Tighten the drain plug when the oil is through draining.
   
3. 3 Unscrew the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Place the oil filter with the waste oil.
   
4. 4 Rub new motor oil around the gasket of the new oil filter. Pour 1 qt. of oil in to the filter.
   
5. 5 Screw the filter to the filter housing with your hands. Do not wrench-tighten as this will strip the threads and make removal of the filter difficult.
   
Replacing the Oil Pan
6. 1 Locate all the bolts holding the oil pan in place. There will be 16 to 18 bolts.
   
7. 2 Unscrew all the bolts with a socket wrench. Lower the pan to the ground. If the pan is stubborn, tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen the seal from the gasket.
   
8. 3 Scrape clean all the gasket material around the bottom surface of the motor. This will ensure a tight seal with the new oil pan.
   
9. 4 Place the new gasket around the new oil pan. Raise the oil pan to the motor and screw in all the bolts. Do not tighten the bolts until all are threaded to the bottom of the motor.
   
10. 5 Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench. Ensure that all the bolts are tight.
    
Adding the New Motor Oil
11. 1 Open the hood to access the engine compartment. Unscrew the oil filler cap on top of the crankcase. Pull the engine oil dipstick from the tube. Wipe the dipstick clean with a fresh towel.
    
12. 2 Pour in 5 qt. of oil in to the engine crank case. Insert the dipstick back in to the tube and pull it back out. Check the oil level against the markings on the dipstick. Fill at 1/2 qt. intervals until the dipstick indicates "Full."
    
13. 3 Start the truck and allow it to run for five minutes. Allow the truck to sit for an additional five minutes to allow the oil to drain back to the oil pan.
    
14. 4 Check the oil level again. Fill if necessary, but do not overfill.
    

if it is 5sd it is on the drivers side by the oil filter and it would have three bolts

Drop your oil pan and remove the gasket, You will see your oil pump under your crank shaft. You will be able to remove it from here

torque specs for these bolts can be found in a Haynes or Chilton manual availiable from your local parts store, or maybe at your local library, however these bolts are usually no more than 14 ft pounds, unlike cylinder head bolts, the bolts do not need to have any stretch factor to hold the oil pan gasket in place or sealed.