2001 dodge stratus engine temperature gauge spikes occasionally

You may or may not have a problem with the fan. It should come on around 220 degrees or when the ac is running.
The temp on the gauge and the temp the computer sees can be 10 or 15 degrees different either way.

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hope this may help;

Regards,
VOTIT

Good. Have a nice day. Did you have a question that needed an answer? Feel free to ask.

You will need to remove the gauge cluster and reset it, possibly it spiked when installing battery and ended up there. Unfortunately there is no other way to get it from under the post without removing the gauge cluster.

Check the coolant level, a small air lock can cause this, as the steam passes the sensor, the steam is hotter than the coolant

Sounds like the sending unit is bad, can't exactly tell you where its located, don't have my manual at the moment.

The temp sending unit could be bad. They do not cost that much. Check the temp sending unit plug for corrosion. Other proublems could be wireing in the instrument cluster.

Hello, as previously suggested by my collegue it appears you have an air lock. Have you tried parking the vehicle on level ground, from cold with radiator cap off start the car and leave it idling. Make sure the fluid/coolant levels are o.k. and let the engine reach operating temp. Keep some warm water handy and watch/listen the water/coolant system (Keep a safe/sensible distance from radiator) hopefully after a while the system will bubble and boil up let it settle for a few seconds and then top up with very warm water do this until it hopefully stops belching out of radiator. Replace cap and hopefully top and bottom hoses will be warm. Oh! nearly forgot keep all heater controls on hot with blower on full..(Inside the vehicle)
Finally I'm not joshing but is the thermostat in the right way round and functioning correctly? to test drop it in some boiling water it should open almost immeadiatly.
sorry for the epic but I'm here to help and hopefully save you time and money.
Good luck and a Happy New Year to you and your family!
Paul 'W'

Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set.

why does the cooling fan start working as soon as i start the car and doesn't shut off until i turn off the car?