SOURCE: Buick LeSabre left front window will not close
Don it. Good half day for amateur. Get Chilton 86-99 Bonneville, 88, Lesabre manuel.. Tricky to find bolts are under end flaps on door close handgrips. Took me a day to figure that one out. Others under light at lip of back of door. Book indicates to strart with window 3/4 up if you can. Flip up window control at rear of panel. After all screws are out raise outer edge of armrest and look for notches 4" and 11-1/2" from rear of armrest to slide inward to remove. There are screws under the door handle too. Screws everwhere. When pulling bottom of panel from door lift with a notched bar to avoid tearing the fasteners out of the cardboard panel. Two screws behind seatbelt notch at top need to come out to allow positioning the glass. The panel at the bottom of the top opening can be removed for more fredom in positioning the glass when reinserting the ball in the lower track on the window. Tape glass with duct tape to keep it from falling. Drill the factory rivets that hold the old regulator and I replaced with stove bolts with nylon locknuts slotted head to the inside the car. Can't remember the size, probably 1/4 or 3/16". Remove speaker if in front bottom of door to use your hand to do work in the door. You must twist the regulator forward with window 1/2 down to remove the ball from the socket in the bottom sliding metal track at the bottom of the window. Don't drop the window after removing the socket, tape it in place. Don't know what you do if you cannot move it to 1/2 up position. By the way, the body shops say you must use rivets, not screws or it will shift, but I have had no problems with the screws for reinstallation several years old. The rivet they use take a big hydraulic pop rivet gun that you won't have. Good luck, I don't envy you. Need to do other window on my 91. The window control may not be the same on the Custom, mine is the Ltd. you may be able to remove the motor from the regulator in the door without removing the regulator if you can figure out how to get the bolts that hold the moter to the regulator. inside the door.
SOURCE: how to remove front door panel to replace window
FIRST CHECK THE CABLES THAT RUN INTO THE DOOR BECAUSE THEY CAN GET CUT THOUGH COMMON PROBLEM (JUST WERE THE DOOR HINGES INSIDE RUBBER BOOT.) DOOR PANEL REMOVAL...... PRIZE OUT THE TRIM PANEL AT THE BASE OF ARMREST UNDO TWO SCREWS (DRIVERS SIDE) OR ONE SCREW ACCESSIBLE THROUGH THE ARMREST UNDO THE SCREW AT THE BASE OF THE DOOR TRIM IN THE CENTRE. STARTING AT THE FRONT EDGE CAREFULLY PULL THE TRIM PANEL (ABOVE THE INTERIOR RELEASE HANDLE ) AWAY FROM THE DOOR TO RELEASE THE CLIPS, THEN SLIDE IT TO THE FRONT TO UNHOOK THE REAR EDGE OF THE TRIM PANEL.UNDO THE 4 SCREWS IN THE TRIM PANEL RECESS NOW PULL THE DOOR PANELAWAY FROM THE DOOR FRAME RELEASING THE RETAINING CLIPS, SOME FORCE WILL BE NEEDED PREPARE FOR SOME CLIPS TO BE BROKEN THEN LIFT THE DOOR PANEL UP SQUARELY NOW YOU CAN EASILY GAIN ACCESS TO ELECTRIC MOTOR.HOPE I WAS SOME HELP TO YOU THANKS STAN
SOURCE: How to remove the inside left side front door
Snap out two door pull strap retaining screw covers. Remove screws.
Remove screws on front, rear and center of front door trim panel.
Using the Trim Pad Removing Tool or equivalent, pry the trim panel retaining clips from the door inner panel.
These are plastic so be careful you can use a pair of needle nose pliers if you don't have a trim tool.Just start at bottom of door panel and work your way around and up.
SOURCE: remove rear door panel on x type jaguar
You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. If needed, you can pull back the weather seal (can't reuse it, but it's not that important) and you will be able to access everything inside the door
SOURCE: jaguar xj8. 1999. front passenger door will not
More than likely the door handle assembly is broken. The chrome handle has a pin running through it and through 2 "ears" of a plastic part that creats a pivit point for the handle. One of the plastic ears (probably the bottom one) has broken loose. Glueing it will not hold long if at all. The accepted repair is to replace the handle assembly which consists of a Plastic mounting block of which the "ears" are part, a chrome handle, and a pivot pin. You can buy this assembly used on Ebay at this time (August 2010) for between fifty and seventy dollars including shipping, but you are buying a seven to twelve year old part out of a junked car with the same inherrent weakness as your broken one had. How long the part will last is anyone's guess. My guess is "not long". You can buy a new one that will probably last as long as the original one did, or you can repair the part by fabricating a metal replacement "ear" and attaching it to the Plastic part with very small screws or nuts and bolts as I did. To perform either repair you must remove the inside door panel. In the plastic handle recess there is a small circular plug that can be removed with a thin pointed tool. It reveals a phillips screw that must be removed. Remove the plastic recess part. There is another long screw on the underside of the armrest/handle. With these removed there a number of male to female plastic plugs that can be seperated with a dedicated tool or a flat tool like a common screw driver. Insert tool between the door trim panel and the door at each plug and pry the panel from the door a half inch or so. With all the plugs seperated wiggle and carefully lift the panel over the verticle locking stud because there are 3 wires that must be un plugged. After unpluging the wires, put the panel aside in a safe place. The handle assembly is removed by sliding it toward the front of the car and then removing the cable. Repair or replace the assembly and reassemble in reverse order. Good luck.
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