Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

C
Christopher Gallington Posted on Aug 25, 2017
Answered by a Fixya Expert

Trustworthy Expert Solutions

At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.

View Our Top Experts

Engine idle very lumpy and wanting to stall on gear down shift. Sometimes poor on starting until fuel gets through then car runs well but very smelly.

1 Answer

Donald Pera Deane

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Cars & Trucks Master 384 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 25, 2017
Donald Pera Deane
Cars & Trucks Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Joined: Jul 19, 2017
Answers
384
Questions
0
Helped
160680
Points
1901

SYMPTOM 1: ROUGH IDLE IN THE COLD

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine, or at least it runs more smoothly.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
  3. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, and spark plugs.
  4. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
    The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
  5. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace components as required.
  1. The EGR valve may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace the EGR valve.
  2. The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check the compression to determine the engine's condition.
  3. Idle speed is set incorrectly.
    The Fix: Set idle speed to the car's original settings.
  4. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
    The Fix: Clean or replace the fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 2: ROUGH IDLE WITH WARM ENGINE

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is warm. When the engine is warm or hot and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
  3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
    The Fix: Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  4. Idle speed set incorrectly.
    The Fix: Set idle speed to specs.
  5. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
  6. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test circuits and repair or replace components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  7. The EGR valve may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace EGR valve.
  1. The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
  2. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
    The Fix: Clean or replace fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 3: FAST IDLING

The engine idles too fast. After the engine has run long enough to become warm, the idle speed does not come down to normal. You really notice it when you come to a stop and must have to push ******* the brake pedal to keep the car from moving.
Possible causes:
  1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
    The Fix: Replace the accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
  2. The engine may be overheating.
    The Fix: Check and repair the cooling system.
  3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
    The Fix: Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  1. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
    The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
  2. There may be some type of ignition problem.
    The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
  3. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required.
  4. There may be a vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
  5. You have a bad idle speed control unit.
    The Fix: Replace the idle speed control unit.
  6. The alternator may not be working properly.
    The Fix: Replace the alternator.

SYMPTOM 4: STALLING UPON STOPPING

Car stalls when stopped quickly. You are driving along and everything is just fine ... until you let off the gas pedal and apply the brakes. The engine starts shaking and may even stall. Not a good thing to happen because you lose power steering when the engine dies and could risk an accident.
Possible causes:
  1. There may be a serious vacuum leak.
    The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
  2. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
    The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
  3. Broken linkage.
    The Fix: Repair or replace the linkage as required.
Idling issues can be very frustrating, but with some patient troubleshooting, you'll have a real chance at figuring it out. Remember to always check your engine idle with the air conditioning and defroster turned off, as both of these systems are designed to change the idle when they are on due to the air conditioning system's demands on the engine.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 6982 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 18, 2009

SOURCE: jeep wrangler stalls out

check idle air control, tps & map sensor. As usual with electronics, test test test before buying anything/

Ad

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: Vibration when in gear, and stalling.

The problem is the torque converter solenoid. I had it happen on my 94 Cavalier a few years back and was a cheap fix at the local car mechanic. What happens is the transmission warms up and hits a certain speed where the solenoid engages, but then it sticks and won't disengage until it cools down sufficiently. When it sticks, it causes the car to shake when slowing down and will snub out the engine if you come to a stop.

Anonymous

  • 453 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 28, 2009

SOURCE: throttle/Idle/running problem - wants to run too fast, or stall out

RPM's up and down check EGR valve and sensor. EGR valve and sensor control idle. That's why your getting the surging on rpm's and this could be giving out the other codes. If mass flow was bad car will not start and the same for the map sensor. O2 sensor measures gas and air for right mixer. TPS controls 0-60 speed as in throttle respons.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Sep 15, 2009

SOURCE: Runs lumpy when idling

just brought a megane 165 2.0 turbo,nice car,just been serviced from a renault dealer 29000 on the clock,HOWEVER,the toxic fume light flickas on and off at slow speed,it goes off at normal travelling speed,the car is not misfiring,it all seems ok,ive rang the dealer i bought it from and hes saying because the car stands often a week between being used its getting some condenstation in or around the cataltic converter,like i said the car is running fine,DO YOU THINK THE GUY IS FOBBING ME OFF,in the manual it says it should be checked over,any thoughts?

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 LINCOLN LS V6 - ROUGH IDLE / SOMETIMES STALLING.

Very common problem is about a dime size hole wearing in the rubber elbow on the PCV valve located on the driver side rear of the intake manifold.

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer
0helpful
2answers

Rough idle after engine is warm

Dirty air filter, dirty throttle body...try 2 bottles of gas line fuel injector cleaner...has your car been parked for awhile? Heet gas additive will work on any low gas tank sludge that you may have. Hope this helps.
1helpful
1answer

Engine cut out

Sounds like you may have fuel filter problem. you may want to check the pump and filters located in or near the fuel tank.
Go directly to the source ( Fuel Tank, Pump, Filters, Fuel Pressure Regulator and Injectors )
You may have water or grit in the fuel
Hope this helps
1helpful
2answers

1987 jeep shuts down when switching gears or off gas pedal

wrangler? YJ? 4WD"?
what engine, what fueling system. Carb. or EFI?
2.5 L AMC 150 I4 Complete engine specs[show] 4.0 L AMC 242 I6 Complete engine specs[4][show] 4.2 L AMC 258 I6 Complete engine specs some 87s have a carb. does yours, (nobody can fix enigine not kwowing both facts above and what transmission,.


stalls , moving, only. at stop lights or between gears.
but never just parked idling.
if its random , that would be the EGR valve sticking open.
if EFI , bad idle switch.
if Carb bad dash pot. on carb.
0helpful
2answers

I have a 1993 dodge dakota that will not run when I put it in gear. If I let it set for awhile (2-3 hours) it will start right up and idle for as long as I want without missing but as soon as I put it into...

Check fuel filter, relay, fuel pump, sometimes the pump will run, but still too weak to run an engine at speed or underload. If fuel pressure checks out to be fine, look for a clogged catalytic converter.
6helpful
4answers

My dodge dakota it idles below 1000 rpms and it sounds like its about to stall. and if i rev it up and then let off it will stall instantly. when i am driving from first gear to second it goes up to 4000...

It is actually hard to say without actually seeing the vehicle, but the target speed for your engine idle is around 750 RPM. The stalling after revving kind of depends on how high you are revving it and whether the engine is at operating temperature or not. This may be normal. Then again, it could be that the Idle Air Control (IAC) is not working properly.

The shifting from first to second at 4000 RPM sounds like a completely separate problem. This could be due to low transmission fluid level, sticking shift control solenoids, or possibly even a malfunctioning Vehicle Speed Sensor.

If the Check Engine light is on, have that checked first.
0helpful
1answer

Poor idle

Hi
It sounds like an air fault, most likely the air mass sensor to the air box or it could be that there is a split i a vacuum pipe or air intake pipe check all round them to ensure no rips or tears on the underside of hard to see pipes.

the other thing it could be is poor spark as you said you can smell fuel one of the plugs or HT leads may be defective causing a lack of spark thus the smaell of fuel, sometimes the spark can still work but be very weak not igniting the fuel correctly, lastly some moisture may be getting in to where the spark plugs are or around the coils, HT leads etc, get some damp start and spray all over the electrics if you susoect this.

hope this helps
Regards
Dan

9helpful
2answers
1helpful
1answer

Car idles, starts just fine but when I shift into gear it stalls.

It sounds like the kick down cable or "down shift cable" This is the cable on the transmission that shifts back down when the car slows. The transmission is most likely stuck in a higher gear and simply stalls the engine when shifted. replace this and i believe you will be back on the road. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Not finding what you are looking for?

338 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cars & Trucks Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

7339 Answers

Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...