I sanded an oak coffee table applied mission polystain second coat looks as if I painted very disapointed I re-sanded Now time is critical please advise

Preparation is a large percentage of the job beginning with has the door been painted before? If so how many times?

If the paint is chipped around the edges the best plan is to remove all the paint until the door is bare wood and a blowlamp and scraper or paint stripper is what gets the job done. If the old paint is particularly loose a Skarsten scraper is what you need to make a good beginning.

If the door has been painted only once or twice before and painted particularly well it will need sanding to remove runs, brush marks and any remaining gloss and to thin the paint thickness close to the edges. Defects will need filling and then more sanding with progressively finer abrasive paper.

Once the door is flat and smooth it should be wiped over with a damp cloth to remove all dust and the surrounding area cleaned. Visible knots should be sealed with shellac or knotting and bare wood primed with a thin coat of wood primer and when dry denibbed.

Next is a light coat of the correct undercoat and further denibbing/light sanding followed by another clean and a further (full) coat of undercoat and more denibbing, etc.

When applying paint it is important to work systematically and to thoroughly brush each new brush full of paint in every direction and blend it into the last painted area in order to obtain a uniform paint thickness and then finish each area with long even strokes in the same direction.
Modern paints dry or become tacky very quickly and so each fresh brush full should be laid without delay close to a wet edge and then blended into it.

The final coat or top coat needs special care because mistakes are difficult to correct without applying a complete new coat.

I hope this helps - it is a much abbreviated description of what usually takes a long time; spread over several days or even a week when allowing proper drying times between coats of paint.

If you go to an AUTOMOTIVE PAINT STORE...
The staff there can better advise you on the
particular application you are attempting...

Very likely you are looking at ALUMINUM ...
(you might want to consider getting it powder coated or electroplated... Painting ALUMINUM is TOUGH).

There are "preparations" required to actually get
through the OXIDATION and allow YOUR
PRIMER PAINT (available in many colors) to stick
to the surface...

Then you can manipulate the surface with YOUR
"sand-paper"...

Anytime you sand through your PRIMER and expose the
ALUMINUM... You should repeat the process... PRIMER AGAIN
and only then apply your surface paint...

READING & understanding the directions on the paints you are using is CRITICAL to success... as is cleanliness ...

A good paint job is all about PREPARATION... but sanding
is quite drastic and should be done as part of the complete SYSTEM...

A tragic number of beginning painters think they can "spot sand" to feather the edges of a "chip"...

From a SURFACE (final finish) all that is accomplished by that is a deeper variation in the surface... that will now need to be leveled out (again).

Two ways to level:
- Primer- SURFACER (fine grit block sand)
- Sand it all down SMOOTH (and re-prime)

Sanding is a CRITICAL skill and can change the shape and LINES of your entire vehicle...

Read & heed the cautions on all paints & primers... Use dust masks, gloves, tac cloths, surface cleaners... eye protection and dust free + well ventilated areas (a lot harder than it sounds )...

With the proper sequencing... really beautiful finishes can be produced (WITHOUT all the gouges and dips caused by shabby sanding techniques)...

Hope this helps

Carnac the Magnificent

anything you are painting needs sanding and primer for a good coverage

primer, sand, primer, sand, paint, paint, paint, wet sand, clean, clear coat, clear coat, buff.

Sand blast first..........Then prime and paint with rock guard black or powder coat them which include backing as well......Hope this helps.

Knowing how to paint a Jeep in camo patterns means you can hide your Jeep in the woods, marshy areas or in open fields without it being easily seen. Using Mossy Oak's Shadow Grass pattern, paint your Jeep with natural-looking shadows and grass blades. The 3-D look of this pattern allows you to easily hide your Jeep from water fowl, doves, deer and big game.

Things You'll Need:

• Sandpaper (120 and 800 grit)
• Wax and grease remover
• Lint-free towel
• Camo stencil
• Masking tape
• Masking paper
• Respirator mask
• Automotive primer
• Automotive paint (black, gray, light tan and brown)
• Automotive clear coat

1. Sand the surface of the Jeep with 120-grit sandpaper until the surface is dull. You can use a dual-action sander for this step to speed the process. This removes the top clear coat and prepares the surface for primer. Primer won't stick to a shiny surface.
   
2. Mask off areas of the Jeep that won't be painted, such as the windows, tires and passenger area of the Jeep. Wipe the surface with wax and grease remover and a lint-free towel.
   
3. Spray primer on the Jeep in three thin coats. Allow each coat to dry completely. Once the primer is dry, use 800-grit sandpaper to sand the top layer of primer until smooth. This leaves a smooth surface for the paint. Wipe again with wax and grease remover and a lint-free towel.
   
4. Paint a thin base coat of gray on the Jeep. Cover all of the primered areas on the Jeep so that no primer can be seen. Allow the paint to dry.
   
5. Go over the Jeep with brown paint, spraying small areas of brown paint in no particular pattern. The finished effect should look like the Jeep is equally painted gray and tan. Hold the first stencil against the Jeep and use black paint to fill it in. Move the stencil over and paint again. Start at the front of the Jeep and work towards the rear.
   
6. Move on to the next stencil and use light tan paint to spray the grass pattern. The grass should start at the bottom of the Jeep and reach up towards the top. For longer grass, don't spray the tops of the grass but instead move the pattern up, spray the stems longer and then spray the tops, making the grass stems long. Repeat this around the Jeep and across the hood. Go back over the grass stems with black paint, lightly spraying a few of the stems to give them a shadow look.
   
7. Finish by spraying three coats of clear coat paint onto the painted areas of the Jeep. This protects the paint from UV rays and keep the camo pattern looking good.
   

Tips & Warnings

• Paint is best applied using a paint spray gun and air compressor, but canned spray paint will work.
• Never sand or spray primer or paint without using a painter's respirator mask.

Resources: Customice Camo Stencils

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I really hope help you with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

sand it down with some fin grit sand paper, apply a slight coat of rustolium, masking off the area with masking tape, so you dont create a larger area. Then ge touch up paint from your local dealer, some thinner and a refilable pray can, thin the touch up paint with the thinner in a 2 part paint to one part thinner ratio and spay a few coats on, should work.

Use a light sand paper first this will ruff the surface a little then wipe it down getting all dust off then primer it then apply your finish coat of black be sure to use the same name brands of paint and primer.

Initial sanding can be done with 100 or it will take you a year to sand it down. You can either use a power sprayer and have paint mixed to match, or use cans made by duplicolor ...You will never match the existing paint though because it changes with age...I use the larger cans when available (marked for "vans") You can use 400 wet paper between coats and if you want to get crazy, use 800 wet when finished. Wait a few weeks and use white compound, clean well, in another couple of weeks, use clear-coat, sand again and when fully cured (few more weeks) then wax. Never sand unless paint has dried for at least 24 hours...even when it looks and feels dry, it can roll, and damage everything you have done.