Question about 1997 Toyota Camry
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Removal of the plenum is pretty straight forward. You will need to replace the plenum gasket after you remove it; the gasket is not reusable. Personally, if I was going to take the trouble to remove the plenum, I would replace the plugs and wires back there, also.
I know, I have a 93 Camry V6, and it is a real pain to do the plugs and wires with the plenum on. There are no secrets or great tips on the plenum removal, just take your time. Remember that there are different size bolts, and where they go. Please get back to me if you need any more info...Hope this helps, and thanks for choosing FixYa to resolve your issue.
The graciousness of a FixYa rating for my assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
Get a T belt from toyota. It has 3 white lines on
it and and arrow mark. 2 lines are solid and one is broken. Put the
arrow facing away from the engine. The cam gears have a dot punched
into them near a certain tooth. This is where the solid white lines
will line up with. The crank gear will have a dot also. It will line up
at 90 degrees from the top, towards the front of the car. This is where
the broken line will match up with. With the belt installed with all
lines on their proper dots and arrow away from the engine, you valve
timming is correct.
Of course you need to remove and compress the tensioner also. I assume you know this already since you didn't ask.
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
There is a heater core bypass pipe that runs from the block (under the manifold) to the bacl of theengine where you will see a flat rectangular "sheet metal" thing with a pipe coming out of it. The a rubber hose connects. You need to pull the top air plenums and intake to get to it. The p[ipe flange bolts to the block with silicone rtv as a sealant.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
Hello. You have posted an excellent question.
The code 55 you are getting, in Toyota terms, as as follows:
"No number one knock sensor signal to the ECU fo four crank revulutions under these 2 conditions: Coolant temperature 140 degrees F or more; Engine speed between 1600 and 5200 RPM."
This indicates a failed (or a loose) knock sensor on the Right Bank of the engine. Since the knock sensor is basically a piezo-electric crystal, not continuity test can be performed with the intake manifold installed.
You can check the continuity form the Knock Sensor wires to the ECM, but, this may not prove useful to you.
Unfortunately, you are going to have to pull the intake, and check the knock sensor wiring integrity. If the connector is good, and the sensor is tight, I would suggest replacing the sensor. Actually, if you were in my shop, I would suggest replacing them both, as the whole intake will have to come off if the other sensor fails. Better to replace them both at once, than to pull the intake again.
We here at FixYa hope that this helps you out, and saves you some future reoair dollars. Thanks for choosing FixYa for advice.
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 04, 2014 | Toyota Camry Cars & Trucks
Jul 11, 2011 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Dec 31, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Camry
Dec 02, 2010 | 1992 Toyota Camry V6
Aug 05, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix
Jan 08, 2010 | 1993 Toyota Camry V6
Nov 05, 2009 | 1993 Toyota Camry V6
Aug 14, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Camry V6
May 31, 2009 | 1999 Toyota Camry
44 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!