At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
1981 280zx non turbo starts and dies shortly thereafter/will not idle and runs rough/misses. Checked injectors, catalytic convertor, ignition module, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires are new.
Also checked the plugs for a "wet" condition/they were dry but had a little bit of black soot on them. Also checked fuel pump (it "hums/whirls" when key is in the on position). Coil & cold start valve passed test. Vacuum hose have all been replaced too. HELP!Also checked the plugs for a "wet" condition/they were dry but had a little bit of black soot on them. Also checked fuel pump (it "hums/whirls" when key is in the on position). Coil & cold start valve passed test. Vacuum hose have all been replaced too. HELP!
Are the antifreez and oil level rite? If a intake or head gasket is leaking into the cylinder or each other could cause issues also.Are the antifreez and oil level rite? If a intake or head gasket is leaking into the cylinder or each other could cause issues also.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
As long as I push on the gas the car will run (still misses/stumbles at higher rpms but not as bad as if I let it idle). Take the foot of gas and car stalls.Will start but stops almost immediately.As long as I push on the gas the car will run (still misses/stumbles at higher rpms but not as bad as if I let it idle). Take the foot of gas and car stalls.Will start but stops almost immediately.
Were they oem plugs? You need to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Should be around 40psi. Sounds like the tps sensor.Were they oem plugs? You need to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Should be around 40psi. Sounds like the tps sensor.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You read the codes so what were they exactly? That is only half of the issue. You can have codes that are showing up because something else failed. There is no code that says "replace injector"
The cat is working overtime. There is a sensor in the exhaust just down from the manifold. This measure exhaust condition. Have this checked. Until this is functioning properly it won't tell the fuel management what to do. I don't know if this will fix the misfire or not.
could be fuel , try a fuel addative , get one that covers the catalytic convertor as well as the valves , injectors etc,look for any signs of wear/damage to vacuum and air hoses
The reason for the problem can be faulty fuel injectors,
clogged air filter, faulty ignition coil, and many more or none of these. These
are just assumptions for the problem. The real problem may be something else,
so I would suggest you to get your ride checked for the error code and then
update your answer indicating error code.
Older Model Computer Codes (OBDI) - IMPORTANT! Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting circa 1996.
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking OR timing belt
skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft
position sensor.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
OR
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22 Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
OR
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
OR
32 (1990-92) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the
wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit or normal on early 80's models if you
don't have air conditioning)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
OR
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
OR
35 idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo only) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-87 Turbo only)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on)
41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
OR
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
OR
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (The Z1
voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay.
This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the
ignition coil)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (this may be tripped by a bad
MAP sensor system causing a rich condition. If you get hot rough idle
and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine
and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2
sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability,
stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage
(a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor.
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing
55 End of codes
61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure
66 No CCD Message From TCM and/or No CCD Message From BCM
have you checked to see if the injector is not leaking? this would explain what youre experiencing. another would be a plugged catalytic convertor. what happened when it died in the first place?
Also checked the plugs for a "wet" condition/they were dry but had a little bit of black soot on them. Also checked fuel pump (it "hums/whirls" when key is in the on position). Coil & cold start valve passed test. Vacuum hose have all been replaced too. HELP!
Could be the oxygen sensors also.
I would also check compression.
It may jumped timing.
Are the antifreez and oil level rite? If a intake or head gasket is leaking into the cylinder or each other could cause issues also.
×