SOURCE: replacing fuel pump on an 05 nissan pathfinder
No special tools required. You first need to remove as much fuel as possible so the tank is not too heavy. Chock the wheels, put tranny in N, remove driveshaft making sure to mark both mating surfaces at rear diff so you put it back on exactly how it came off. Disconnect the filler hose at the tank. Next thing is to lower the tank about 4-5 inches so you can disconnect the electrical connector and hoses to the fuel pump at the top of the tank. I placed a floor jack with a 2' x 1' piece of plywood under the tank, removed the support straps, and lowered the tank enough so I could reach up and disconnect the electrical connector and fuel line hoses from the pump. Once I got everything unhooked I lowered the tank and slid it out from under the vehicle. Replacing the pump is far easier than getting the tank out. There is a locking ring you have to turn remove. Tap is with a wood block or brass punch so as to not cause any sparks. Once it is off, remove the pump and replace. If you are replacing the pump you should replace the fuel sending unit also since these things have a reputation for going bad at 60,000 miles. Installation is the reverse order.
SOURCE: 1997 nissan pathfinder shuts off right after starting
There is a relay on the rh passenger side kick panel above the automatic transmission module that is controlled by the ECU through the MAF sensor that controls your fuel to the engine so the air / fuel mixture is correct. I fixed a pathfinder one time with a similar stalling problem.
SOURCE: 1997 nissan pathfider iat sensor
i believe it is built together with the mass airflow sensor!
SOURCE: 1997 pathfinder i need a water pump do i need to
yes you will have to remove the timing belt and crank pully. It is not as bad as it looks. You might as well, while you are in there, change the thermostat and new Timing belt and tensioner pully.
The trick I use, (and I have done hundreds of Timing belts) I use a good paint pen to mark the timing belt and gears. make sure to mark it so you know what marks are for what cam and crank. and which direction it goes. then on the new belt crefully transfer the marks. then it goes really smooth and there is no guessing hoping it is properly lined up on the factory marks. and you dont have to line every thing up before you take off the belt either. just mark it and remove it where the motor stopped..If you do it this way, you dont have to worry about trying to line up the cams and crank to there respective marks, just the ones you made, then there is no mistake.
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