Take it to a qualified repair shop . Some point in time you have to realize you don't know what your doing , don't know how to test !
SOURCE: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Crank-No Start. Replaced FP.
Hey Tim take a look at this, will this help ?
SUBJECT:
No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM / SKREEM
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the replacement of the Wireless Control Module (WCM), and if
equipped, the replacement of the Electric Steering Column Lock (ELV). The WCM is also
referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM).
MODELS:
2007
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer will experience a no engine crank AND a no engine start condition. Also, the
remote keyless entry (RKE) system will not operate. This condition may be due to an
electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module
(WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more
frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is
more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM
DIAGNOSIS:
1. With the condition present (i.e. the vehicle in the no crank / no start condition), connect
the StarSCAN® scan tool to the vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position, and power up the StarSCAN®.
3. If the WCM is electronically locked up, the StarSCAN® will display the WCM as being
“off bus”.
4. If the no crank / no start condition is present, and the WCM is “off bus”, then reset the
WCM by temporarily removing the IOD fuse (with the key out of the ignition switch),
wait for 10 seconds and then reinstall the IOD fuse.
5. With the IOD fuse reset having been performed, verify that the vehicle will now crank,
start, and run.
6. If the condition is temporarily corrected by performing the above steps, and if the part
number of the WCM is earlier than the part number of the WCM listed in the part
reference table in the Service Bulletin Parts Required Section below, then perform the
Repair Procedure.
SOURCE: How to replace a starter on a toyota solara v6
You take out the battery, and the air-filter housing to give extra working space.
Then push in the starter motor to its place, and hand-tighten all its bolts.
Wrench tighten the starter bolts to the engine 38.ft-lb
Connect the solenoid wire, and tighten to 10.ft-lb
Connect the battery positive cable, and tighten to13.ft-lb.
Replace the air-filter housing.
Replace the battery, and terminals.
Crank-up the car.
SOURCE: Saab 9-3 SE won't start!!!
My boyfriend was having the same problem with his 2002 9-3 and in reading the user manual i found the following...when the car wouldn't start this morning he tried it and instead of having to wait 15 minutes for it to start, it started right up. Oh and his screen didn't give an error.
Electronic starting interlock
(immobilizer)
When the key is inserted in the ignition, a
signal is sent to the receiver. If the signal is
verified, the engine can be started.
Each time the key is removed from the ignition,
the electronic immobilizer is activated.
If a fault is detected (e.g. in the transmitter)
”KEY NOT ACCEPTED” will appear on the
SID.
In this case, you can still start the car if you
turn the ignition key to ON and press one of
the buttons on the key.
Take the car to an authorized Saab dealer to
have the system checked.
If the car does not start
If the text "KEY NOT ACCEPTED" appears
on the SID when the engine refuses to start,
the trouble may be a fault in the transponder
of the key or in the receiver of the ignition
switch. Proceed as follows:
• Turn the key back to the LOCK position.
• Turn the key to the ON position.
• Press one of the buttons on the remote
control (the LED on top of the dash stops
flashing).
• Start the engine.
Try the other key. If it works, the trouble is in
the first key.
Call on an authorized Saab dealer for
inspection and correction
SOURCE: 1992 Toyota Camry won't crank
Check the ground cable going from the battery to
alternator, then to chassis. Make sure there is no
rust at the chassis ground wire terminal, and that it
is very tight. The fusible link will be off the alternator
red power cable,usually, but not 100% on that car.
Good luck.
Well for starters, you need to diagnose the problem before replacing anymore parts. I say this because you mention both the fuel pump and sensors dealing with the ignition system which are 2 separate main things. Basically it takes 2 things to make an engine start, fuel and spark at the spark plugs. You need to narrow down what is missing because it seems since you replaced sensors dealing with spark and then you mention the other need fuel. I'm not sure as to where to start to help until whatever is missing is diagnosed and then find the cause of the loss. There are a couple of things you can check. Below is a picture of the relay box in the engine compartment. With the help of somebody put a finger touching both the fuel pump relay and the EGI main relay. While touching them have somebody turn the key to the "on" position (no need to try and start). When the key is turned on you should feel a "click" inside both of those relays. The fuel pump relay will click for about 3 seconds and the click again to shut off. The EGI main relay should stay on. If both seem to be fine you need to make sure of the fuel pump gettting "juice" and for power to the ignition system like the coils. You can get to the power/juice wire at the fuel pump pretty easy. You can access the connection at the fuel pump by lifting the lower part of the rear seat. Once the seat is lifted you should be able to see a part in the carpet that is cut to be able to lift the carpet up and access the plate covering the access to the fuel pump and/or the top of the fuel tank. Using a test light, check the green and yellow wires at the fuel pump. You should have power at those wire when turn the engine over or if the key is just turned to the on position you should have power there for about 3 seconds. To begin checking for spark or power to the ignition system you need to make sure you are getting power to the ignition coils. The red and white wires at the coils are your power wires. Check those. Also you can check the power at the fuel injectors. When the key is turned on or when trying to start, you should have power to the green wire at each of the fuel injectors. You should have constant power/juice at each of the fuel injectors. This is where I would start to narrow down the loss. Start here with these tests and let me know how the tests come out by replying/commenting here or you can email me directly at [email protected] ith what you have found out. Once the first tests are done and I know what the results are, we can go to the next step with a couple of other tests to figue the problem out. If one of the relays don't "click" then you have a possible bad relay. The EGI main relay is a common thing to go as well as the fuel pump relay. Don't mind helping and there is no cost to you for it but I don't want to tell you to start replacing parts until the problem is located. Hope this helps get you started.
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Full power until "start" position, no power to starter, full power in relay, has spark, lights shut off as normal when turned, no click
(Checked:)
Battery,cables, fuses, relays, starter, ignition system, fuel pump, all hoses,+
[Replaced:]
Battery, fuel pump, relay, ignition switch, igniter, crankshaft position sensor.
Still no start! When we bypass ignition it cranks but still won't start! Please help!
That's interior lights not headlights
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