2008 Hyundai Tucson 2.0l petrol. Will not start.

The fuse is in the engine compartment fuse box and is marked 'A/Con'. It looks like a Relay to me and as it doesn't have an amperage, my guess is that it is a relay. The different sites have slightly different variations, but the thing to check first is the relay. You mention 'heater coil', that is on the engine coolant circuit and only provides hot air. The AC compressor system has an 'evaporator' up in the dash and only supplies chilled air. I trust the AC job was done professionally with a Gas Recovery machine to create a moisture free vacuum before adding refrigerant gas. It can't be done at home. I wrote a Fixya Tip on it.

Hyundai Tucson (JM; 2004-2009) fuses and relays

Fuse Box Diagrams https://fuse-box.info > hyundai > hyundai-tucson-jm-2...

Here you will find fuse box diagrams of Hyundai Tucson 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009, get information about the location of the fuse panels inside ...

2005 Hyundai Tucson fuse box diagram

StartMyCar https://www.startmycar.com > Tucson > Fuse box

2005 Hyundai Tucson fuse box diagram. The 2005 Hyundai Tucson has 2 different fuse boxes: Engine Compartment diagram. Inner Panel diagram.

Hyundai Tucson 1 (ix35) - fuse and relay

FuseAndRelay.com https://fuseandrelay.com > hyundai > tucson-1

It is located in the left end of the dashboard, behind the protective cover. ... The fuses designated as C / LIGHTER or P / OUTLET are responsible for the ...
https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+hyundai+tucson+ac+relay+location

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Oddly enough, I would look for Rat chewed wires.

Replace sensor or try cleanin it....may hav metal pieces from crankcase oil

Have you had the OBD codes read, this will point to the component at issue , as a guess i'd go for the ign coils or the crank sensor but the OBD will pinpoint it for you

all spark plugs dead. and at the main coil?
in this case after fuse (test them , ones that look good can be bad)
these steps work or all EFI cars made.
first is the rotor spinning cranking, if not the cam belt snapped!
a 1 second check, do you try to run 60k mile belts 200k ?

1. CEL lamp on? key on? no crank? y/n,, if no the ECU is dead. or lamp burned out, we fix this FIRST. for next tests.
2. I insert the diagnostic jumper clip (paper clip)
3. the CEL now flashes codes, write them all down.
4. I then crank for 5 seconds. and release the key.
5. The ECU then reports live codes. beyond above stored codes.
6. The ECU is very good at finding bad crank or cam sensors dead or even missing pulses, 1 in 10 lost. trust it, on all cars ......
7. if no sensor code errors or spark bad errors then do the next things.
8. The ecu also reads back the Tacho signal and will report dead tacho, sig, the ECU creates this and is the COIL drive signal to the ignition coil via the IGNITOR device.
9. If the ignitor dies, or the coil primary opens, (dead Ign.coil) then the ECU see this and gives you Spark fail codes, cranking only!
10. if you get far with a dead ignition coil, the ignitor is bad or the coil assuming coil even has power 12vcd key on.

this is all in the FSM, if you read it.
as is the Ignitior tests, and the coil tests.
The FSM is an amazing thing if your read it.
buy one.

ECU = engine brain, or EFI brain
EFI = eletronic fuel injection
CEL is the check engine light also called SES or MIL.
your ECU is OBD1 and no scan tool works .
only the winky blinky light.

P1100 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P1102 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P1103 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P1123 Lang Term Fuel Trim Adaptive Too Lean
P1124 Long Term Fuel Trim Adaptive Too Rich
P1127 Long Term Fuel Trim Multiplier Too Rich
P1128 Long Term Fuel Trim Multiplier Too Lean
P1134 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Transition Time Switch (Bank 1 Sensor I)
P1154 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Transition Time Switch (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P1166 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Controller Adaptive Diagnosis Fault (Bank 1)
P1167 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Controller Adaptive Diagnosis Fault (Bank 2)
P1168 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Power Incorrect (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P1169 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Power incorrect (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P1372 Segment Time Incorrect
P1400 Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor Circuit
P1440 EVAP System Vent Solenoid Circuit
P1443 EVAP System Fault (Fuel Tank Cap Missing)
P1510 Idle Control Valve Opening Circuit Shorted (Coil 1)
P1511 Idle Control Valve Command Signal Shorted (Coil 2)
P1513 Idle Air Control Valve Opening Coil Circuit Open (Coil 1)
P1521 Power Steering Switch Input Circuit
P1529 Customer Snapshot Request VIA CAN
P1552 Idle Air Control Valve Closing Coil Circuit Shorted
P1553 Idle Air Control Valve Closing Coil Circuit Open
P1586 Encoding Signal Circuit Not Rationale
P1602 Serial Communication Fault with Transmission Control Unit
P1605 Rough Road Sensor Circuit
P1606 Rough Road Sensor Circuit Not Valid
P1611 MIL Request Signal Circuit Low Input
P1613 ECU Self-Test Failed
P1614 MIL Request Signal Circuit High Input
P1616 Main Relay Fault
P1623 Diagnostic Lamp Power Stage Fault
P1624 MIL On Request Signal//Cooling Fan Relay Low Circuit
P1625 Cooling Fan Relay High Circuit
P1665 Power Stage Group 'A' Fault
P1670 Power Stage Group 'B' Fault
esta codigo no lo existe in hyundai codigos

I'm having a similar issue with my '97 Golf K2 with a 2.0 I checked the resistance to the crank sensor and it was almost 900ohms with the replacement one being 500 ohms. Changed it, didn't work.

Mine was running fine driving 70MPH on the highway and just shut off. Now it cranks, fuel pump runs and it seems to be getting fuel but still no spark. I have a coil/module on order and will try it tomorrow.

UPDATE

Replaced the coil. Coil sparks once when you first turn the key on, that's it. crank sensor has already been replaced yesterday.
Injectors seem to fire (I smell fuel if I crank it a while) but still no spark.
I have 12V to the coil and 12V when cranking.

I see tons of posts with this issue but no resolutions. Come on somebody has to have been here before....

UPDATE #2

I do NOT have an injector pulse or a pulsed signal to the coil. When I crank the car the oil pressure light blinks on and off (just noticed this not sure if it is relevant)

I do get a check engine light when I turn the key on and when cranking, thought this meant ECU was good?

Any other way to test the ECU?

Could the pick up in the distributor be bad? Doesn't the pick up signal the ECU to fire the coil and injectors, I thought the crank sensor was just a TDC reference point?

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Launch X431 Master

its ya lifters. not getting enough oil to motor. oil pump prob goin out or you spun a crank bearing

Specifically which torque settings are you referring to. There are thousands to choose from. Please give an example such as "differential carrier", "cylinder head", "exhaust manifold to engine block" etc.

Hi,
I'm having a hard time to fine that code, but I'm still looking.


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