Only if it has bands and not clutch packs. or mix.
did you look on side of the box
see the real name?
that tag?
then read about that box,
most top transmssion parts houses sell parts for it and the book for service for like $15?
4L30E is it on usa car.
ill now type for you, called searching, (ive answer this before)
bingo (1998 , not saying all 4L30e are same, but...you work service manual free so...)
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t26378198-adjust_bands_98_isuzu_rodeo_3_2l_v6_4
How do you adjust the bands on 98 isuzu rodeo with 3...
how do you adjust the bands on 98...
SOURCE: 4x4 tod not engage
I SOLVED THE PROBLEM FOR FREE, gentlemen...here's how:
YES, as Tanner 78 has said, it was the Vacuum Switch Valves (VSV)
(well, T78 said 'vacuum sensor valve' but I''m sure he's talking about
the same thing)
The VSV's are tiny little things, one grey and one blue. They are made
of plastic and are each about the size of a Bic lighter. They're
mounted together on a thin rectangular metal plate which is then
mounted onto the front axle, and there is a skid plate that protects
them.
Each VSV has a solenoid inside it...a solenoid is an electrically
operated device that moves a little internal plunger back and forth. In
this case, the plunger sends 'vacuum' to either the RIGHT side or to
the LEFT side of the vacuum device that "engages" or "disengages" your
front axle.
In my case (as it turned out) the little plungers inside the solenoid
of the VSV's must have been plugged up with something...gunk... oil...I
don't know, but they were obviously not doing the job.
HERE IS HOW I FIXED MY TROOPER FOR FREE: I cleaned out the VSVs. Simple as that.
HERE IS HOW TO DO IT:
1) Remove the VSV's from the front axle. EASY DOES IT! There are three
little black vacuum hoses running to each VSV...they are a pain to
remove, and BE CAREFUL because the body of the VSV is PLASTIC and if
you break it...you buy a new one. The hoses just slip over the little
nozzles...you have to pry them off gently with a straight blade
screwdriver. However you do it, remember you're dealing with a tiny
plastic part. ALSO, be sure to note where the hoses came off! LABEL
THEM!
2) ELECTRICAL: You also have to remove a little electrical wire from
each
VSV...the wire connects with a colored plastic plug (one grey, the
other blue). There is
a TINY brass wire that locks this plug onto each VSV. You have to
GENTLY pry this wire up to let it clear the little locking lug. It's a
pain...make sure you have good light. And again, it's plastic, so take
it easy.
3) When you have the hoses and wires off, remove the little nuts that
hold the thin metal plate to the axle. The whole assembly...which is
about the size and weight of a pack of cigarettes...will come right off.
4) Remove each VSV from the metal mounting plate.
5) Where the electrical wire connects to the VSV, you will see there
are two 'spades', or little brass ears where the plug went on. You need
to get two little jumper wires with tiny alligator clips on each end,
because you have to apply battery power to these VSVs to test them.
6) Hook up the jumper wires to the spades on the VSV, then place one
clip on the negative post of your battery and one on the positive. If
the VSV is working, you should hear a very tiny CLICK from inside the
VSV. You might have to hold it right against your ear.
7) If it makes a click, it's working OK. Test it a few times.
8) If you get NO click, the plunger inside is plugged, and you need to clean it out.
9) Use a SOLVENT BASED electrical cleaner and spray it into end nozzle
of the VSV. CAUTION: Do NOT use a greasy spray like WD40 or anything
like that, or you will gum up the VSV and it will be useless. Make sure
you use a solvent based spray that completely disappears when it dries.
Spray some into your hand and let it dry...there should be NO residue
or oil on your hand at all.
10) Now it's a matter of 'spray and shake' and hooking up the wires to
the battery to listen for the CLICK. Spray the cleaner into each of the
nozzles...be generous with it... If you have some compressed air, shoot
that in too...just get the gunk out. You might not see a huge pile of
**** come flying out...we're talking about a small device here.
11) If you get to the point where each VSV makes a nice, clear CLICK
every time you apply the battery power, you're done. Reinstall
everything and it should work. MINE DID! First try...the front axle
engaged, and it works fine months later.
GOOD LUCK DUDES
SOURCE: 1998 Isuzu trooper TOD module
Its under the plastic covers round the shift levers between the seats.
SOURCE: 2000 ISUZU TROOPER WITH AUTO TRANSMISSION. CHECK
If the fluid is up -
it could be a vacume loss or the shifting module..
The shifting module is what tells it to shift - and it is controled by vacume pressure..
SOURCE: Isuzu Trooper 1997. Automatic Transmission holds gears too long.
Their is a power and normal drive in trooper's power for pulling a trailer and normal for normal driving. The power drive only changes gear at higher R.P.M. Their is a switch on the plastic cover under the handbrake with p & n their is a light in the dash as well. If you are not aware of this switch then just needs switching over if you are aware of it then its probably the fuse to activate it or a wiring problem with it, Cheers
Testimonial: "I know the switch. But nothing changes when I switch back and forth. No light on the dashboard either. I don't know if it is in normal or power."
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