Question about 1998 Volvo S70

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Where do 2 wires 4the temp sensor in 98 S70 go to?My fan doesn't turn on unless I short wires while sensor's connectd &the enginz hot. It will also turn on if I disconnect 1of the wires while hot. Y?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 98 S70 cold start

Milethro,

I'm guessing your car has over 100,000 miles, right?

Hi, I currently have a 98 V70 XC Cross Country that was throwing the secondary injector air pump code. I removed the pump (under the battery tray) and it was filled with water. This happens because the check valve sticks open and allows the exhaust water vapor to accumulate in the pump as the air pump is mounted lower than the check valve (located behind engine back by firewall)

If you locate your air pump, just put 12 volts dc to it from the battery to see if it comes on and winds up..........it'll sound like a jet engine taking off if everything is working. Run jumper wires from the battery posts down to the air pump connector.

I removed the pump and freed up the bearings, then drilled two small drain holes in the casing. Works fine now. Also removed the check valve and cleaned. Checked with a MityVac vacuum pump to make sure check valve diaphrapgm wasn't leaking. Okay, just dirty. Working fine now. Do a Google search on the Volvo secondary air injection pump and you will find good info on removing the pump and valve for repairs or cleaning. These air pumps are expensive, so try removing and fixing yours first. Volvo had a bad problem with water accumulating in these pumps. Most junk yards don't have any in stock due to the cost. Most have been removed by now.

My problem now with the wagon is excessive cranking when cold. When I first try to start it, it will crank for 7-8 seconds, then start. If I immediately shut it off and try to restart it, it restarts quickly every time. Wondering if I have a fuel pressure problem? Any thoughts?

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 94 Answers

SOURCE: cooling fans on 2001 chevy malibu will not come on unless ac on

the relays control circuit is grounded by ECM (computer) . to check this make sure the is hot enough for the fans to be commanded on by computer and check to see if you have voltage at relay and it has ground from computer . you may need ECM.
good luck

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

Anonymous

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: cooling fan

Here are the cooling system diagnostic steps...First does the cooling fan kick on (with engine hot)? If not, check the fuse, if good then check the thermoswitch in the radiator (it's about an inch and a half in diameter located on the lower part of the radiator with two wires ) by disconnecting the wires and touching them together (again, with engine hot...at least 190 degrees) if the fan comes on, you have a bad switch. If not connect a 10 gauge jumper wire from the battery to the fan itself (there are three terminals,,, one high, one low and ground). With power direct from the battery (and a ground wire, if necessary) fan should run... if not replace the fan assembly... if it does run then you have a bad cooling fan relay (under the dash, I believe). Hope this helps... ;-)

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

roy7777

Roy McShane

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 98 S70 turbo ~171000 mi. car will start

THE FIRST THING IS TO CHECK FIEL PUMP PRESSURE AND FILTHER AND THE RELAY IT IS IN FUSE BOX WITH A J and it is black and if it gets too hot engine will shut down and you will have to wait until relay cools 850,s and S70 models have this problem especially in th A/C CIRCUIT

Posted on May 05, 2009

HaeRAy

HaeRAy

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: fans not coming on overheating changed water pump,

FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE:
1996 CAMARO Z28 5.7L ENGINE TROUBLES

  • Performance Symptoms:
    Overheats- Runs Rough- Runs Very Rough- Induction Backfires- Stalls Out-
  • Operational Symptoms:
    Won't start- Check Engine Light Turns On-
  • Diagnostic Error Codes:
    Various Cylinder Misfires- Overheat Condition- Oxygen Sensor Failure (Totally legit but, not related to other issues.) and a few others I forgot about.

    Overtime; I ended up replacing everything I thought could have been even remotely related to the problems, including the Engine Control Modual/computer. SOS!
The symptoms continue in an intermittent fashion. Sometimes it was happy for months with only a nerve racking sputter or two while at idle or even cruising at 70 mph. Then suddenly it just stops running. Crank, crank, crank but, not a plug fired or was it that not an injector injected. In any case the thing lay dead for half an hour before it just came to life again. It was fine for weeks after that.

Three things I came to notice about this whole miserable affair were:

  1. It all started “the day after” I did some maintenance under the hood. The work included replacing “one of the two” temperature sensors on the motor ( 'cause it had a broken connector latch..) while I changed out a leaking water pump (...which would drip on the serpentine belt and stall the power steering pump, YIKES!) and an R & R of the radiator to repair a small hole in the right side plastic tank.
  2. It would get normal and proper (as far as I could tell...) if I floored it!!! I discovered it would even start up, when it otherwise wouldn't, if I just held the throttle fully open..
  3. My scanner would report an Overheat Condition “well before” it was indicated on the temperature gauge.
  4. Some of the symptoms were most likely going to show up on cool and humid or moggy rainy days.

OK... Cutting to the chase now--- The problem turned out to be a poor and erratic connection between the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (The one mounted in the front of the water pump...) and its connecter. A serious cleaning and "tightening" of the contacts inside that connecter was “The Fix!!!!”

Me Z' has been up & running like a bat outta' hell for over 3 years since I cleaned up and tightened those connector puppies... I mean it hasn't missed a single beat!

I think the poor and electrically chattering on and off of the connection was doing an input signaling number on the poor computer such that it didn't know how to respond. Under those conditions, whatever it did decide to do in response like, turn off the cooling fans, turn off fuel injection, go full rich injection, adjust ignition timing, were “Just Wrong!”

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it! I hope this helps you and some others who have been experiencing this sort of thing.
RAy

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

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