SOURCE: how to replace valve cover gasket on a 2002 stratus 3.0 liter engine
i don't know that vehicle very well... but there are usually bolts/screws that hold them in place. 4 to 6 of them per cover. sometimes the spark plug holes have giant nuts that hold the cover in place.
SOURCE: 2005 Dodge 1500 code p0404 EGR valve.
The electronic EGR valve and solenoid assembly is attached to the rear of the left cylinder head ,
INSTALLATION
SOURCE: Location of EGR Valve
Found the info!!
This Dodge EGR valve is a certain kind of device that is mounted right on your intake manifold which controls the amount of exhaust gasses back into your engine.
On a 2005 Dakota with 4.7 liter engine (non-HO), the EGR valve is located near the intake manifold on the driver's side right up against the firewall. It's hard to spot as it sits lower than the intake manifold.
To change it, remove the electrical connector. There's a red tab that needs to be pushed to one side and then you have to squeeze down on a tab to get it free. Using a 13 mm socket, remove the bolt that you can see. I had to use a 3 inch wobble extention and then a 8 inch extension with a deep well socket to reach it with my 3/8 inch ratchet.
There's a second bolt that you can't see between the EGR valve and the firewall. With a little trial and error and a lot more luck, you can reach the hidden bolt with the 3 inch wobble extension and a 13 mm deep well socket. Attach the ratchet after the socket is on and remove. This one isn't easy and if there's any Dodge engineers reading this one, a couple of extra inches of clearance between the valve and the firewall wouldn't have killed you no matter what the cost accountants said.
With both bolts removed, you should be able to pull out the metal pipe that connects the manifold to the EGR valve out of the manifold (Pull to the right) and then you can lift the valve out.
For assembly, the metal pipe connecting the intake manifold the EGR valve has to be removed and reinstalled on the new valve. It's held on with 2 5/16th" bolts. You should put the rear bolt on tight, but leave the front bold loose for the reinstall as some adjustment is necessary to get it put back together and the rear is a pain to tighten when installed.
Line up the bolts that attach the valve and get the rear 13 mm bolt (The one you couldn't see on disassembly) started. Do not start the other 13 mm bolt as you'll need to pivot the valve and pipe to the left in order to reinsert the pipe into the intake manifold. Once the pipe is in the intake manifold. Start the other 13 mm bolt and tighten both 13 mm bolts and then the 5/16" bolts holding the pipe onto the valve. Reinstall the electrical connection.
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SOURCE: Location of heater water control valve for 1999
The right side hose coming from heater core runs into a connector. There is a hose parallel to this connector. At the end is what your looking for. If your wanting to replace this cause your heater doesnt work id recommend flushing your heater core first. My heat didnt work at all flushed it yesturday and works like a charm.
SOURCE: AC/Heater control valve :Lancer 2003 Misubishi
The sliding switch on the console is stuck in the cold position and the knob is pulled off. Use pliers to jiggle the switch as best you can. Feel under the center console and you probably will find the cable that is hooked up to the flapper. You'll know because when you jiggle the cold/heater switch at the upper console, the cable will move slightly. At the hookup of the cable to the flapper down under the console (passenger side) try to work the flapper loose to the open (or close) position. At the same time work the sliding switch (with pliers). The flapper will come loose and function properly. Try not to knock of the AC button like I did in the process. It flew off some where under the passenger seat. I'll find it sometime before summer. Ha.
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