Removing fuel pump from 1993 volvo 940. I know

1. maybe The fuel pump controller failed.

Sounds like a fuel pump issue. Any more details? Does it turn over? If you elevate the back, does it start sometimes?
It might be the fuel pump. When was the last time you had it replaced? They last between 70-120k miles (my experience), so depending on the last time it was replaced, it might be time for a new one. They are relatively cheap ($100-$130) if you do it yourself, but it may cost you anywhere from $300-$1000 to have it done.
There is an access panel under the trunk liner that gives you access to the pump and floater, so if anyone tries to tell you that you need to replace the whole tank for $1200 (this actually happened to me once), just say "Thanks" and go somewhere else.
Check for other options on the pump itself, when I asked Pep Boys, they gave me a $300 one, and I said I'd get back to them. Later I found that this Bosch that was only $130 fit was exactly what I needed.

You don't need to drop the fuel tank in a 1995 940. There is an access panel in the trunk. Under the trunk liner there is a panel to the left of the backseat access. Unscrew the 4 screws there and you should see a screw-top cover. Remove it and you will have access to the fuel pump and floater.

it diffentlly needs replaced

look in autozone, look up the part n then click on "view job diagram" hope that helps

Volvo Code Retrieval Accessing Trouble Codes 89-93 models (and later non-turbo/non-OBDII models)

Fuel Codes Locate the diagnostic unit behind left strut tower and remove its cover.(see image) Connect selector cable to socket #2,which tests the fuel codes. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position(engine not running). Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the push button on the diagnostic unit for at least 1 second, but not more than 3 seconds. The red LED light will start to flash,count the number of flashes in 3 flash intervals. The flashes will be seperated by 3 second intervals.Make note of all codes. If no codes are stored,the LED will flash 1-1-1,which means the fuel system is operating correctly.


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Ignition Codes To access the ignition codes,follow the above procedure,but with the selector cable connected to the #6 socket on the diagnostic unit.
NOTE:Turbocharged models may have seperate codes for the turbo system and are accessse by hooking the selector cable to the #5 socket.

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Disconnect battery ground strap before beginning to work on the fuel/electrical system. Do not smoke or have anything in the area which can ignite or cause sparks

1. Drain enough fuel from tank to prevent spilling, no more than 4 gallons (16 liters) of fuel should remain. Use suitable pumping equipment.
2. Remove floor mat and panel from trunk.

1. Disconnect wiring harness connector to sending unit. Remove wires from connector.
2. Disconnect ground wire to sender. Push wires through grommet.
3. Remove cover for access to tank sending unit.

1. All models: Disconnect from the fuel tank sending unit:

1. Breather hose C
2. Return hose A
3. Supply hose B
4. Filler hose D
5. Wiring harness from clip E

1. Clean area and unscrew fuel tank sender/pump cap or equivalent. Remove tank sender/pump and seal.
2. Remove pump from sender/pump assembly.

INSTALLATION

1. Inspect the pump for damage, feed pump hose and wiring for wear. Replace as needed.
2. Install new pump to sender/pump assembly.
3. Install rubber seal in neck of tank. Lubricate inside of seal.

1. Install fuel tank sender/pump unit. Align it with the moulded joint (arrows) on tank.
2. Apply rustproofing compound to exposed metal portions of tank sender.

CAUTION : With tape or rubber caps, protect fuel sender openings from overspray.

1. Torque fuel tank sender/pump lock ring to: 22 ft-lb (30 Nm)
2. Reassemble components in reverse order. Use tie straps to secure all hoses and wiring.

The mount on the rain gutters...Thule, Yakima, etc. Get locking feet...worth the extra money.

I think you can also get some for hanging off the tailgate...check with the companies online or in a local dealer.

Did you check your wiring, make a continuity test on the wiring,
clean all your ground wiring.
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on the engine drivers side below the air intake/below the brake fluid reservoir/ follow the large red batery cable