06 B9 tribeca.Flashing engine light,traction control and cruise lights stays on,Misfire in #1 and #6 cylinders.Changed plugs, fuel injectors, and ignition packs,also replaced the O2 sensor....HELP!!

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Hi! I've owned a 2013 Tribeca for over a year now. I purchased a bluetooth OBDII reader and use Torque Lite on my android smart phone to read and understand the codes. You can also clear off logged faults. I was on the freeway this summer and got a worrisome transmission error code, checked the code, cleared it, turned my car off and back on, everything was fine. If someone recently changed your sparkplugs, they may not have re-attached something properly. You can try removing the negative/black cable off your battery for 10 seconds then re-attach it securely and see if that resets the code at all. If not, take it back to the mechanic that changed your plugs.
ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Code Reader Diagnostic Scanner For Android...

traction control and abs units both use the same wheel sensors
check for problem wires
run the fault codes to check for other areas and faults.

hello,do post your DTC'S,(diagnostic trouble codes) and may be i can help.many modern vehicles spring up a multitude of warning icon's on the dashboard,much to the alarm of it's owner,however,often it can be as simple as a dirty wheel speed sensor,which fails to provide the necessary information to the main (ABS/TRACTION control unit) and so then will inhibit the cruise control,as naturally it's unable to ascertain road wheel speed,and also throw up the engine management light,as the braking/traction control systems unable to supply correct information to the main engine computer(ECU,OR PCM) electronic control unit/power control module. hope this helps,but please supply any further information that you can,regarding your DTC'S, that are read out,try to get a full print off,if at all possible, cheers.

It could be your abs sensor that is messing up with your traction control system and the cruise control I hope that helps

Yes, 86K is unexpectedly soon for a valve job. 200K is more likely. You've replaced the usual suspects, so its time to look further. Valve (or head gasket) problems can be identified with a dry and wet compression test AND a leakdown test. You really don't want to pay for a valve job (i.e both heads, gaskets and timing belt while you're there...) if its not needed. Other things to look for are vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks (odd effects can with these). Watch the coolant level: if its going down, its either leaking or burning == head gasket on the way out. Burnign coolant also creates while smoke. If the gas economy is way off, the catalytic converter could be damaged (unburned gas in the exhaust wrecks the cat).

I HAD THIS SAME PROBLEM BACK IN AUGUST. GO GET YOU TIMING CHECKED I DID NOT AND I BLEW MY ENGINE. SUBARU TOLD ME I "OIL STARVED" THE ENGINE AND DID NOT HONOR THE WARRANTY FROM WHAT I HAVE SEEN ON THE WEB THIS HAS HAPPENED ON MORE THEN ONE OCCASION. LONG STORY SHORT I GOT THE CHICKEN AND EGG STORY WHAT HAPPENED FIRST TIMING WHEEL BREAKING AND CLOGGING THE OIL OR OIL NOT RUNNING PROPER AND THE TIMING WHEEL BREAKING. NOW I HAVE A CAR SITTING IN MY DRIVEWAY WAITING FOR A TEN THOUSAND YES TEN THOUSAND DOLLAR ENGINE. AND THREE MORE YEARS OF PAYMENTS

Take the car to Autozone or similar business for a free code read with a scanner. Depending on what turns up, they will be happy to sell you any needed parts.

The problem is a 7.5amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood labeled "EBR+1" or something like that. Replace that fuse and the problem should disappear.

It is safe to drive your car. What happened was you have a Check engine light on indicating a problem with the emission diagnostic system. This also makes your cruise not work, and the light to blink. Take your car to your dealer at your convienence and have them diagnose it.