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Misty Scott Posted on Nov 29, 2016
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09 Wrangler Unlimited Cylinder #2 misfire

Sputtered when idling and almost felt like it was going to die. Almost 24 hours later engine light is on. Diagnostic tester showed cylinder 2 misfire. Where do I start. After reading other forums, plugs, etc changed out didn't rid the code. Is it possible for a dirty sensor somewhere?

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  • Jeep Master 20,706 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 29, 2016
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Huh what is etc? is it hard to type facts for free expert help>???
09 JK , I own a 08, stick. 3.8L V6. right?
you never said mileage, why?, mines at 60k,
P0302, is that hard to say , that it one only just 1 code,and
you reset it, and it COMES BACK, you never said so...
(to reset it push reset on the scan tool)
or learn which fuse to pull, I have real FSM in hand. can answer that. (its marked OID) in the TIPM fuse box, pull m3 fuse
for say 5minutes, all codes are forgotten now. 3.8L JK

that (my had to guess) code means, this.
weak combustion on #2 only. (slow piston acceleration is a fact)
so if all 5 others burn right how can just #2 fail only.
ANSWERS:
well its NOT FUEL MIX is it.
leaving only these.
1: sparkplugs gapped wrong, did you set them or guess?
to SPEC<, is the answer.
2: spark plug wire #2 to coil pack lug 2, is this new?
we work cheap to expensive ok./?
3: weak compression on #2. check that WOT?
wide open throttle (about) but never at idle position.
4: injector issues. #2 only (swap injector or learn how to do balance tests and leak down test on them, out of BOOKs
not internet bs rumors.

there it is...
the order above is by complexity and cost.

throw in bad coil but no miles stated so ,i guess low?
do not mix coil wires, or it will misfire. it has only 1 way to do it.

  • Anonymous Dec 16, 2016

    the code not presented P0302
    means this in pure physics (best)!
    it means the piston velocity on #2 was slow.
    the PCM measures the rate of change, at firing. (of each piston by federal laws,OBD2)
    and if slow, that means its weak and means.
    weak combustion ! #2
    it does not mean only spark , see?
    weak has 3 major failure paths
    bad compression
    bad spark
    bad fueling. (in that order)
    how ever statically, skipping tuneups is #1 cause.... of misfire for 100 years now.

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Dec 16, 2016

    Given.
    only one code is stored,and resetting it comes back driven....
    where do you start, well that is a long story and book, (there are vast books on topic)
    ill not do one here.
    what did the spark plug look like , before changed out.
    black, oil soaked, green with antifreeze
    white, or tan,? dripping in fuel, or looks normal. this is like the fist thing.
    if the HV wires from coil pack to the plugs
    at about 100k miles.
    id even inspect every inch of #2 wire.
    and make sure its got 3k ohms resistance per foot, not infinity. I run NGK mag wires.
    they read 0ohms but are reactance wires.
    then if all that fails, I check compression on #2, 120-150psi is spec, sea-level reads max. less in Denver CO.
    ok spark good, compression good.
    i then scan it , using live data
    i then look at all PID data for wrong readings. RTM
    this is covered in all ASE classes
    and not something I can cover in one page.
    I look at pendings too.
    and at the freeze frame for P0302, to see of other key parameters read wrong for that.
    ECT reads 180F or more.
    O2 sensor works at IDLE and swings,
    and swing centered on 0.45vdc. fast.
    if not, I work that issue.

    this post is for you and other JK owners
    so if its too long, others will find it useful.
    (read the chapters on how misfire monitors work for best results)

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I have a reoccurring problem with a flashing check engine light flashing. the code always indicates an engine misfire. I have replaced all coils, wire set, plugs, O2 sensor and cat. The problem...

You need to know if it IS misfiring. Does it shake at idle?
Typically I recommend experienced techs deal with misfires.
the code should say P030x, with the X being the number of the cylinder it believes is misfiring (No, computers arent always right about which cylinder. USUALLY, but not always.)
Lets assume it says CYLINDER 3. (Only your scanner will tell you for sure, 3 is an example we are using for now). You could try disconnecting cylinder 3 ignition coil plug at idle. On a good cylinder that is NOT misfiring, you will hear and feel the engine run rougher and slow down when you unplug its coil or injector. Thats because it WAS contributing until you unplugged it. Your v6 engine idles at say 600rpm warm when its running good. If you unplug any 1 cylinder, youve lost 1/6 of the engine output (actually more due to dead weight drag from that cylinder, but not important for now). SO, if you find the cylinder it says is misfiring, and it loses rpm when unplugged, its probably doing SOMETHING or trying to. If you unplug it and zero change heard or felt, that cylinder is likely dead.

Heres where it gets hard. Could be literally dozens of things that take some familiarity and experience to ID. bad spark, bad fuel mix, bad spark plug, oil fouling, low compression, leaky valves, blown headgasket, leaking intake, EGR leaking at idle, wrong weight of motor oil (some cars) and the list goes on. An experienced drivability tech can usually narrow it down or find it in 1 hour or less. If you are learning as you go, you could take many hours, and still miss things that trained eyes and ears wont.

Start by figuring out which cylinder. If it idles smooth (No shake at idle, and if you clear code and start it and let it idle the light never comes back till you drive over 75 as you stated), then I strongly recommend a professional check it.
If it idles rough and you know which cylinder, you can try taking out that coil and spark plug if you know how, moving them to another cylinder that isnt misfiring, then clear the code and drive it and see if the same code resets or a new code for the other cylinder sets. If the code is the same, you have deeper issues not worth explaining here.
If the code moves to the new cylinder, then 1 or both of the 2 parts you changed are likely at fault. You can replace them an very likely fix the issue.
Again, I strongly recommend professional help. But that may get you started.
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This will help.

Thanks.

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