Water will not come out my floor nozzles or my tool.

it's just a tiny pump motor, hose and nozzle
simple to a fault.

1. is it ice frozen,. use the correct fluid and that ends.
2. does pump spin, make noise, (no = fuse blown)
3. are the water lines free not clogged. ? test them.
4. is the nozzles clogged/?
5. is the check valve , not clogged, (in line)

follow the rubber tubing from the passenger side, from where the fluid exits back towards the resivor and u will find a tee fitting where the tubing splits from pasenger to driver side. take it apart and blow compressed air thru it.

Here's the description for the DTC P1406: The PCM monitors the EGR valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly to commands from the PCM and to detect a malfunction if the pintle position sensor and control circuits are open or shorted. If the PCM detects a pintle position signal voltage outside the normal range of the pintle position sensor, or a signal voltage that is not within a tolerance considered acceptable for proper EGR system operation, the PCM will set DTC P1406.

That means there is possibly a problem within the EGR valve itself, or a wiring/connector related to the EGR valve. Having a scan tool to command the EGR valve and watch the data would be extremely helpful in diagnosing this code.

Here's the description for DTC P1441:
The EVAP vacuum switch is a normally closed switch positioned in the purge line between the canister and the EVAP purge valve. The EVAP vacuum switch will open when vacuum increases to greater than 5 inches of water (in H2O) in the purge line. The PCM monitors the EVAP vacuum switch signal to determine if the evaporative emission control system is working properly. If the switch is open (purge flow detected) when the PCM is not commanding the EVAP purge valve ON, DTC P1441 will be set.

Again, this code would be best diagnosed with a scan tool that can command the purge valve and allow you to watch the data related to it. Check your vacuum lines and electrical connections to the purge vacuum switch. If the vacuum switch is unplugged this code can set.

This job is a lot easier with two people but you can do it with 1 if you have to. Have someone sit inside and pump the brakes 3 or 4 times and on the 4th pump hold it to the floor(all the way to the floor and don't let up at all). While they hold it to the floor you take a little end wrench and (Starting on driver side front going to pass. front next then pass. back and so on) you should already have the tire off before pumping brakes. On the caliper(the thing that holds the pads) there is a little bleeder nut Should be near where your brake line goes into the caliper. Now while they hold the pedal down you loosen that nut just a little bit and it should spit a little bit then maybe some fluid will come out maybe not on the first time but it does happen. Just dont leave it open longer than a couple seconds. Just long enough for air to escape then tighten back down. Repeat all those steps about 4 or 5 times for each tire or until brake pedal feels hard to push in. Make sure while your bleeding that you check your master cylinder often if you let it run out u will have to start over from the beginning. Also make sure who ever is holding the pedal do not let up when bleeder valve is open. Same thing. I just wantedn to m

If I remember correctly, there is only one reservoir on the 93 pathfinder. That reservoir would have two pumps on it, one for the front and one for the rear. If the front washers have fluid, the rears would as well. If you can hear a pump running when you hit the switch for the back, then it probably works fine. You may have to hold the switch down for a while so it can prime itself. It is a rather long line running from the reservoir to the rear nozzle, and it has a check valve installed in it to prevent drain-back, so that the nozzle stays primed. These check valves tend to not work well after a couple decades, so the fluid probably drains back out of the line and into the reservoir after each use. If you keep trying and fluid never sprays out, you may have a clogged nozzle, or a blocked/pinched/severed line. I've had fluid start dripping out of headliners on vehicles with bad lines before as well. If the nozzle is clogged, it can be cleaned out with a small pin.

No photo, but if you follow the line from the master cylinder for the clutch down to the drivers side of the bellhousing, you will either find a slave unit with a bleed valve (looks like the one they use on brakes) or the line will go right into the bellhousing with another line with a valve on it coming back out right next to it.
Check the master for seepage into the passenger compartment at the firewall, check the line and check the slave cylinder for leaks. the only way air can get into the system is if something is leaking and permitting air to get in.

The typical problem with the jeep rear window washer is either the hose is blocked or cracked. You can open the hood of your car and check the water tank's hoses for connections, also take the hose loose and check for buildup. Some of the cherokees have a one-way check valve on the line to keep the water from draining back to the tank from the hose. make sure this little valve is not jammed.
If you have access to compressed air, you can take the hose loose from the reservoir, and from the spray nozzle at the window and blow some compressed air thru the line, then reconnect.
The other possibility is that the pump motor isn't working. If you hear the motor running when you activate the switch, you're ok. If not, check the fuse and the connections at the pump motor. Replacement pumps are readily available if needed.

Auto shut off on gasoline pump works on back pressure. If the nozzle itself is "kicking off" early, it could either be a bad nozzle or that the vent system in your vehicle isn't working properly. if the pump itself isn't shutting off, that is a problem with the pump, not your car. Some nozzles will work if held at a different angle or if they are not shoved down too deep into the vehicles fill neck. Problem in the vehicle is usually associated with a bad evap system valve as generally nothing happens to the vent line on the tank to the fill unless you had an accident.

Check pick up screen on pump for blockage...

hello, first check all vacuum line,intake manifold in order ,fuel pump is working,hoping the fuel pressure is good,firing or ignition is working also,try to check your spare plug,determine the condition,have fuel or traces of ignition spark, check your excess voltage protection (relay) which supply power in engine side,located at fuse box,also you may check your fuel distributor (free up) or your injector nozzle for proper spray pattern,workshop have special tool for fuel pressure,ty